Thuya burl question

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Feb 6, 2001
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I picked up a pretty good piece for thuya burl at the show this weekend but, I'm confused. Does this stuff need to be stabilized or not, or is it just preference? I understand the wood is heavy and oily by nature but, I keep hearing references to it being stabilized also.:confused:
 
I don't believe it's necessary on Thuya burl. It just makes a good thing better if you do. Easier to finish, that is.
 
I'm with Mike, the worst thing about working with thuya is it loads sand paper almost instantly. I wonder if when its stabalized its the same way. I know for a few years no one was stabalizing it but there doing it now......Ray
 
Well in my Humble Opinion it is a Good Wood but i Won't use it Unless it is Stabilized !! Yes it Still Load's Sand Paper like Crazy !! Check out This !! Just Have to Finish Sand to 1000 and Buff




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http://www.pinoyknife.com
 
Does it still have the strong cedar smell after its been stabalized? If it does makes me wonder if the stabalizing really does it any good. I had some eboney that was stabalized and went to go use it and it had a crack down the center of it. Some woods just aren't getting any benifit from it........

Very nice piece.
 
Funny you should ask.

I just finished my first Thuya Burl knife last night. I got this piece stabilized from the Lumber Lady.

I sanded to 800, then green buffing compound, then white. It polished up pretty nice, but I'm disappointed in the luster/glow. There isn't any.

I'm gonna call her and see what kind of finish I can add to her stabilizing recipe. I hope I can find something to improve the looks.

Steve
 
Steve, What did the wood smell like? Did it smell like plastic or cedar? Ray

By the way I've never gotten a high gloss with unstabalized thuya, more of a satin finish.......
 
I have to dip my files in mineral spirits to cut the oily dust that loads the file almost instantly. Sand papers don't last long with this wood. I really like the wood because it is naturally stabilized, but you don't get the added benefit of the grain and pin holes being filled for you.

A higher sheen can be accomplished by applying a few thin surface coats to the finished handle. I am finishing one now with 6 coats, so far, of hand rubbed tru-oil. It has a dull luster but the grain shows well and I like it like that for this particular kitchen knife and because the natural oils within the wood will probably never completely cure they may eventually bleed through a solid surface coating (however, I only assume that).

Roger
 
RR,

What does it smell like?

I'm not really sure. One, I don't smell good. Errr... I mean, well uhhhh .... My olfactory sensations suffer from limited accuracy.

Plus, I was wearing my respirator and all the smells in the garage from buffing and everything were blended by the time I took it off.

But I don't remember any plastic kinda smell.

I'm gonna be trying rlinger's Tru-oil tonight. I hope that'll improve it!

BTW it does gook up the sand paper in a hurry.


Steve

PS This is probably the last piece I ever use. I like Amboyna much better. Thuya just doesn't float my boat
 
Just a note here, Judith=The Lumberlady, stabilizes in a different way than WSSI. WSSI uses the liquid acrylic, Judith uses something else.
 
One advantage to the stabilazation of the Thuya burl is that it adds a little weight to the wood. The unstabilized pieces that I have had were very light weight. I suppose that this could be good or bad depending on the type and size of knife you are making.
 
Mike, possibly the lumberlady uses different processes for different woods, but I have purchased amboyna from her that she mentioned specifically she was sending to WSSI.
 
Steve, If the tru-oil you using is the same that is used on gun stocks I've heard it doesn't hold up very well on a knife. I did some checking over at CKD and thats what I was told. Just thought I'd pass it along to you.....Ray
 
It won't have the "cedar chest" smell, because it's a different species (thuja occidentalis vs. cedrus deodara).

hope this helps

Brian
 
Raymond,

Interesting on the Tru-oil. I wonder if it makes a difference if the wood is already stabilized. But too late, it's on there now.

I did email the LumberLady to see if using an oil in conbination with her stabilizing treatment and she said fine. And she recommended Tru-oil. I was worried that maybe it would react or not adhere or something.

Anyway, I haven't re-polished yet, but it looks like it did help.

Steve
 
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