Tibetan Longsword with unique handle (TONS of PICS)

gurkha berserka

gurkha berserka

Joined
Aug 16, 2014
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Hi everyone, as promised here are some pictures of the Tibetan longsword I received last Thursday. This thing is a beast, super solid and not a shake or rattle anywhere. The polish work is simply amazing and the level of attention to detail is obvious. I own many many sword (Posted a bunch of pics in Cantina today). This has to be the sharpest thing I own. I am not telling a tall fish tale either... this thing is as sharp as a razor blade! I sliced through the shipping box with barely a swing in my living room. The tip was very tastefully done and gorgeous. It has an amazing level of finesse and an extremely sharp double sided point. Its so sharp that is destroying my sheath when I practice fast draw techniques. I will have to affix either some buffalo horn or some type of material at the mouth to avoid damaging it any further. I usually carry my swords with the edge up and draw on the spine. This causes massive damage to the sheath. I am now twisting the sheath and drawing it sideways until I get a fix worked into it. This is truly and heirloom piece that I will cherish forever. Enjoy the pics...

Unique hella strong handle
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Slight shrinkage due to climate change. Boiled linseed oil has already swelled the wood and the gap is getting smaller. I will definitely fix with some sort of adhesive or caulk.
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Perfectly sculptured double sharpened point
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Amazing polish...
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Here is the mouth of the scabbard, any suggestions? I was thinking buffalo horn or a hard wood at the mouth to avoid this type of damage.
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I hope you enjoyed and visit the Cantina to see my Katana collection, well some of my Katana not all.
 
Thanks for the pics Gurkha! That is a fine sword! The chiruwa handle looks really well done and that tip looks deadly! I hope they keep making these for a while so I can snag me one. You may try to fashion a ring of brass around the mouth of the sheath with some shimstock then glue some felt to it. The brass ring will add lots of structure to it to prevent splitting further as well. When you get it shaped just right take it off and solder it then hot glue it back on after polishing it up. Then again you may not have much room to add material to the inside?
Another idea might be unfold the leather out and add a wire ring underneath the leather but on top of the mouth (or maybe even a band inside) then glue the leather back. This would prevent cutting into the wood at least.
 
How to repair the buffalo leather near the mouth of the sheath. Thx photo sharing, try taking some photo in the forest with the sword
 
A functional heirloom, for sure. Beauty and strength.

Something about those chiruwa full tang handles seems very appealing to me on a sword.
I think it's because what's held in hand isn't just attached to the blade, it's a continuous extension of the blade.
 
Dude, that is a real beauty! SCORE. I love the tang through the handle,, most of my HI blades are full tang'd.. you have yourself a real work of art there.
Can;t wait to have an HI sword!
 
ndoghouse said:
Thanks for the pics Gurkha! That is a fine sword! The chiruwa handle looks really well done and that tip looks deadly! I hope they keep making these for a while so I can snag me one. You may try to fashion a ring of brass around the mouth of the sheath with some shimstock then glue some felt to it. The brass ring will add lots of structure to it to prevent splitting further as well. When you get it shaped just right take it off and solder it then hot glue it back on after polishing it up. Then again you may not have much room to add material to the inside?
Another idea might be unfold the leather out and add a wire ring underneath the leather but on top of the mouth (or maybe even a band inside) then glue the leather back. This would prevent cutting into the wood at least.
Click to expand...

That's some really good advice on the brass. Its probably a lot easier to come by brass stock than buffalo horn lol. The good thing is the Habaki or the piece of brass attached to the blade near the tsuba\handguard is very long, and the same diameter its entire length. Sorry for the Japanese/Katana terminology, I am a student of the Katana and I know its "terminology". I could remove as much as a 1/4 in of material from the top and the sheath will still material inside the mouth of the Sheath/Saya to "grip" the sword tightly. The sword is very heavy but I can still hold the sheath upside down and the sword wont fall out even with a little wiggling. I think I can still keep that level of retention even with a quarter inch of material removed from the top of the mouth. I will have to experiment but thanks again for the advice!
 
gurkha berserka said:
That's some really good advice on the brass. Its probably a lot easier to come by brass stock than buffalo horn lol. The good thing is the Habaki or the piece of brass attached to the blade near the tsuba\handguard is very long, and the same diameter its entire length. Sorry for the Japanese/Katana terminology, I am a student of the Katana and I know its "terminology". I could remove as much as a 1/4 in of material from the top and the sheath will still material inside the mouth of the Sheath/Saya to "grip" the sword tightly. The sword is very heavy but I can still hold the sheath upside down and the sword wont fall out even with a little wiggling. I think I can still keep that level of retention even with a quarter inch of material removed from the top of the mouth. I will have to experiment but thanks again for the advice!
Click to expand...

Well...Would you look at that! I just happen to have one of those on my desk right now:D
Here's what I was thinking. Make one of these:
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Just unfold the leather out from inside the sheath on both sides.
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Slip the brass insert inside. Probably will have to glue it. Then fold the leather back inside like it was. Should be invisible and add plenty of support. Maybe even put a pad inside where the edge rides if needed.
 
ndoghouse said:
Well...Would you look at that! I just happen to have one of those on my desk right now:D
Here's what I was thinking. Make one of these:
43e85176da038f49813f79055cdc52c1

Just unfold the leather out from inside the sheath on both sides.
203e00414e7f470fc99d5d83780d23ef

Slip the brass insert inside. Probably will have to glue it. Then fold the leather back inside like it was. Should be invisible and add plenty of support. Maybe even put a pad inside where the edge rides if needed.
Click to expand...

HELL YEAH! Now that's the answer I am looking for and it doesn't look like a huge project. Thank you so so much for the photos, its amazing how a picture can speak a thousand words. The brass is soft enough not to dull the edge, but you are probably right about putting some material there. I might use a small section of plastic cutting board material in that area as well. I was thinking more along the lines of an exposed brass mouth but I prefer your idea much better. It will be a lot easier than trying to make a piece that actually goes over and around the mouth. I might have to shave the inside of the wood a little bit to make room for the shim but that's not really a big deal, then I can affix some of the plastic cutting board material inside the edge of the mouth were the blade edge rides. I love these little projects, its what keeps me interested and there is nothing better than doing something yourself.
 
pk977 said:
Boiled linseed oil seems working on it!
Click to expand...

Yes! The boiled linseed oil is amazing stuff. It really does "fix" a lot of shrinkage issues that arise from climate change. Sometimes its good to dilute it with mineral spirits, this will allow it to soak into the wood faster. I used straight BLO (BoiledLinseedOil) on the sword and allowed it to soak in over night. The wood soaked it up nicely and there is barely any separation now. I will give it a few more treatments though out the week and see how it looks. I might have to use some non shrink black caulk to fill in the gap if there still is one. The gap is very small, I cant even slip a sheet of paper between it but you can see a little separation. It will disappear with the caulk but that is my last resort.
 
Most any brand of boiled linseed oil will work. The brand I am currently using is Sterling. You can use any quality brand but please be careful with old rags. Used linseed oil can combust and cause fires if stored improperly. Please throw rags away in the proper manner.
 
Most any hardware store should have it. Boiled Linseed Oil. I used to buy the tiny little bottles from Brownells, but I can get a quart which is nearly a lifetime supply for about the same money.

Should be with the paint and stain type stuff. Get a little turpentine while your there in case you want to thin it down.

Again listen to gurkha and get your rags outside or handled properly so you don't burn the joint down.

I seldom use rags, in fact hardly ever. I just do finger dips and rub it in good a whole bunch of times and frequently after that.
 
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