School me on how you did the tube fasteners.
That's how I did them. First one I did was the Rat Uncle Mojo and it required a little bit of practice....but once you figure out the trick to getting the length of the tube right, it's just a matter of doing it. Takes me about 30 min to swap out a pair of slabs now. That's if everything goes right. The Meaner Street's original tube fasteners gave me alot of trouble this time around, I ended up cracking one of the slabs (black canvas).

Which is the reason I can't re-use them.
Here's a few things I can pass on that might help anyone avoid my mistakes:
1) The best way to drill them out is to go as far as you can with 1/4" drill bit, then take a 9/32" or the next size up and use it to "crack" off the flared part of the fastener. The reason being is that sometimes the tube is a real pain to hammer out, some are tighter than others.
2) The length of the tube should be slightly higher than the highest point of the plane of the slab. Easiest way of judging this is either using a depth gauge (most mics have them built in) or laying the knife (with slabs held in place) on a flat surface and sliding the tube down through the hole until it bottoms out (hits the flat surface). That distance should be mirriored on the other end of the tube. It doesn't have to be perfect...a slight extra tube length generally just means a wider flare.
3) The screw/bolt head shape is important. I actually tried 3 different types before I found the right one. The best way to get an idea of what will work is to use the old/original flared fastener as a templet. Find a shape screw/bolt that fits in snugly but has just a little of it's top sticking out above the flare.
And lastly...practice on a piece of wood first. It helps....I wish I had. I ended up having to drill out two sets of flares before I got it right!
Hope all or any of this helps.