Tightening a 301

J

JD Bear

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Aug 4, 2015
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There's been a few discussions in the past about 301's with weak springs, but this is more of a question for you guys. I've chimed in on a few since I don't carry mine due to the complete lack of tension from the springs....which sucks. In some of those chats it's been mentioned that it isn't considered a defect and isn't a warranty issue, which I get (kinda). So what I'm asking is if any of you have remedied the issue yourselves. I was thinking about trying to give the bolsters a little squeeze in the vice to maybe tighten up the action a little. Any thoughts or known fixes?
 
If I were concerned with mine, and I really, really wanted to tinker, I might drive the center pin from the handle out, remove the "spring" (which is more of a torsion bar), try to bend it a touch (which is all it would take), then put it back together.

I don't know if that can be done though. I've not taken a slip joint apart yet, but I think that's what I would try.

I might even try peening the pivot pins too. They might expand more in the blade which might slow the action as well.

Unfortunately though, when you pinch the bolsters, or peen the pivot pin, you'll have some sanding and/or polishing to do and I you over-peen the pins and they stick to the blade, you'll have the pin turning in the bolster every time you open or close the blade.

All speculation on M part of course....
 
I reckon if I mess it up it won't be a big deal since I don't carry it anyway. Just figured I'd give it a try and see if it works. I don't know if I want to get into taking it apart yet. Like I said, it won't be that much of a loss. I really like it though and hope it'll work...
 
Good luck! If peening the pin don't work, you can take it apart the next time.

I've peened 110 pivot pins to the point the blade was tough to operate. Lessons learned...
 
If you don't already know... The newer 300s have a one piece frame+bolster and should be nickel-silver. The pin should be the same NS and easy to clean up and polish.
 
Since only one person has spoken up I am going to. If you are not experienced from ruining a couple of knives doing this in the past, I would not take one completely apart. If you want to play around doing it for the experience, that is another matter. Someone of experience chime in here and state that they have successfully bent a 300 spring and repaired the knife to the expected tension of a proper factory issue ???

I have ruined a couple. All I have been successful at was lightly squeezing the bolsters, and taking a pointed punch an tapping a dent in the off side, middle of the pin, carefully supported so you won't move pin out the other side. But, if you want a nice knife here is what I would do.

You go to the website get the number, you call customer service and describe the problem, CS says send it in you get name of who you talked to in CS and you tell them what your problem is. Make a note of this. Send in knife. I believe CS calls are to a 800 number. Yes, you are out $6.00 to send it in a insured box. Use a padded envelope if you prefer for cheaper price. Envelopes and insured boxes can be bought in Post Office, wrap knife in your note, jam in some paper towels your bring in a pocket so knife won't move. Write address as they state on website - BKI. Don't use Buck Knives on outside address. You will get back a fixed knife. If you don't, then call back and with a decent but determined voice complain and then come here and you can complain all you want and I will defend you from all comers because you gave it a decent effort. If you mess with it first your warranty is void............300Bucks
 
Sorry for steering you wrong JD. I thought you were looking for DIY ideas.

I guess packaging it up nice and secure and paying for shipping it with your own money and arguing with the staff at Buck about why it's not to your liking on perhaps multiple occasions is something you can yourself thereby making that a DIY fix too....

I can't seem to find a proper eye roll smiley...
 
No worries MT. I appreciate your ideas as well as 300's recommendation. I was looking for a DIY fix so you were right on. I tried tightening in the vise today and it helped a little. I didn't go too crazy though. I still want it in the collection so I didn't want to damage it too badly. I was thinking about getting another one and seeing if it was better, but it seems like recent history has been repeating itself in regards to the weak springs. Just one of those things I guess...
 
One man's good enough is another man's jello. If you keep getting bad knives over and over I would say give up. I am not trying to be a SA here. You may just want more spring power than they can or will provide. I have had a few in the past that were different but were still good enough. I don't handle lots of knives so I can't say I have noticed a overall issue of decline. I started early on as a Buck 300 'collector' but I would be telling a lie if I said I never looked at another brand. I have several different TL - 29 models even now.

Again, As I have learned from MY experience, unless you are ready to have a zip-lock full of parts, its is difficult to do work on any knife without experience, tools and PARTS. You spend more on getting parts than sending it in.

Who says the spring is weak, it could be the shape of the rear of the blade tang is ground off or a kick that is short. The "ears" on the spring ends could be ground short and only a replacement will fix that. If you want to try to fix one up I am all for it. I bought some sharpened down blade 300s just to mess with them. They are setting in a drawer in pieces in a zip lock bag. I gave up because I usually messed up a pin hole and then needed pin material in a slighty bigger diameter. I got one with decent blades fixed up nice and put nice wood scales on it, I re-used the spring pin because I could hide it under the glued on scale. Trying to reuse full length pins you drive out almost never works and besides you need a steady hand to grind off a pin head without damaging a scale. Then trying to peen a round rivet head usually beats up the scale material. You would need to get a rivet head spinner (set) for a drill press to get them round and shiny. Not to mention stuff to polish bolsters and backs to get things level.

I got it he was looking for advice on how to do self fixes. But, I just feel unless your willing to invest in the learning, tools, materials and a few dead bodies you use Buck warranty to get a nice knife in your pocket. My ending advice is to watch who here on the forum is a rebuilder, aka Stumps for one, he usually just works on 110s but lots of methods are the same. You can see some of his photos and descriptions he has posted in the past and gain some knowledge from him. Like I said if Buck doesn't want to fix your knife, you have my support to complain loudly in the Buck Forum. Maybe Mr. Hubbard (of Buck Knives) will see it and tell you to send your knife to him....... 300Bucks
 
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I'll throw in my two cents worth. It's a little off topic since what I did was buy some junker 303s to take apart so I could compare and photograph internal parts. I got them apart and it's a good thing I never had any intention of putting them back together. I still have a Schrade 303 to work on. Again, I have no intention of putting it back together, but I would like to be sure I can take it apart without ruining what I want to look at.

Bert
 
I kinda like the "weak" pull on my 301 and 371's. The blades don't flop around when they are open or closed, and when my fingers are wet and "near frozen", I don't have to fight the knife to get it open. I'm not worried about the spring "keeping the knife from closing" when I'm using it, since that is not the job of the spring, anyway. Even with a bear trap snap to the blades, if you cut in the wrong direction with a slip joint, the blade is going to close.
 
300 - I think you made a point that could very well be right on. My particular 301 may not have any problems and is more than likely the same as hundreds of other ones out there. That being said, I just prefer a harder pull than what the 301 offers (barely any). That's where my initial question came from...if other guys felt the same way and found a way to adjust them. I don't think I got a "bad" one, that's why I wouldn't waste the time to send it back. I have other stockman knives that I carry, so this isn't a big deal to me. My main carry is a 110 or 112, but I always carry a smaller blade as well. It's not going to be a current 301 unless I do decide to try another and it's a little tighter. I wanted a rosewood version anyway, so now I have an excuse to get one...
 
I think you should take it apart and try to bend the spring. We will help you put it back together.
 
BuckShack said:
I think you should take it apart and try to bend the spring. We will help you put it back together.
Click to expand...

Ya know what? Maybe if I decide to get a rosewood version, or a 302, I'll do it for the heck of it to see if it works. I won't have anything to lose so why not give it a try?
 
@JD, I stopped into my local knife shop this afternoon and pulled out all 9 rosewood, and the lone black 301 he had. I pulled the main blade in each of them and I'm sad to report that they are all mushy and had no "snap". These were all NIB and the rosewood models were from 2014 through July this year.

If just one of them had tension anywhere near my Case slip joints I would have snatched it up for you. Unfortunately, that wasn't the case.

I'll find one to year apart and tinker with one of these days.
 
That's the spirit! We have two testers :thumbup::thumbup:

Maybe I'll get one and attempt my plan for a caplifter knife conversion.

I wouldn't mind an official response from Buck on the spring tension. It's come up a few times. I personally think it's ok. And I think people with arthritis, weak nails or less hand strength in general can really enjoy these. Maybe that's why.
 
I've had bleeding fingers from opening an older Buck, or one of my Case slip joints where I didn't have a good bite on the blade I was opening. Pull to open, lose the grip, blade with a good solid spring slams shut. Unfortunately on at least 3 occasions I can remember, I had just enough finger tip in the way to get nipped.

The 301s I handled today are definitely safe when that happens.

Local guy had an old Camillus 301 with a broken main blade for me to tinker on, but I passed it up as we're talking about current Bucks.

The black ones have an exposed spring pin while the cherry has only 2 scale pins so the spring pin is behind the scales. I'll find one to butcher soon.

@BuckShack, have you seen the knives with the bottle opens carved into the handle and frame? Seems like Buck made one like that...
 
MT_Pokt, Buck does have one called a Redpoint that has a bottle opener on the end of the frame. I have one, it's a fun knife and works well. Still, I would like to see a caplifter blade in a 301-302 frame. Perhaps I can use your 301 parts if you can't get yours back together :D
 
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