Time to make Godzilla! Steel Type options??

Brian Ayres

Brian Ayres

Joined
Feb 4, 2011
Messages
1,429
So,

I'm making a Godzilla....guillotine.JPGGlobzilla.jpg

The question is.... What to use for steel? I can get some D2, or O1 locally, and I imagine there HAS to be somebody locally that has some 1065 like Ray Richard made ......
but after thirty minutes and ten calls, all I find is mild steel and tool steel... So. Tool steel works, it's a tool... With a basic setup, ie forge, what tool steel can I heat treat well enough for the fullering jaws? Maybe just use Mild steel???

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-how-to-make-a-gorilla?highlight=godzilla+ray
 
I think that 4140 would work.

Speedy metals should have every size you need.
 
Mild steel will not do ! Can you find 4140 or 4340 ? The are great hammer steels and anvils too.
 
D2 and O1 are tool steels?

D2 should make great jaws if on the softer side, don't want it cracking. As for the frame mild steel is a fine choice. Use shoulder bolts so you don't destroy the threads.
 
Many have made theirs out of leaf spring steel, which is usually 5160. Go to the scrap yard or most any mechanic and they will have some lying around.
 
Frank Niro said:
I don't know what a Godzilla is but it it's a knife mild steel just isn't the way to go. Frank
Click to expand...

Lol, :) Frank, Godzilla is what Raymond Richard calls his fullering tool he made from 1065 for drawing out the tangs on knives. I attached a couple pictures of what they are.:D

I'll try again for 4140... Originally I was looking for 1065/1070 so maybe that will help!

Thanks guys.
 
65535 said:
D2 and O1 are tool steels?
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Yup, they've been the standards by which other tool steels are judged for a long time, long before folks started making knives out of them. Either would work but may not be necessary for what is essentially a hammer/anvil in one.
 
65535 said:
D2 should make great jaws if on the softer side, don't want it cracking.
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D2 is an air-hardening tool steel. Isn't that going to be an issue on a hot fullering tool?

4140 sounds good to me. Pre hard even better.
 
You don't need hardness...you need toughness. 5160, 4140-4160, 1060 -1070 or cut some pieces from big truck springs.
 
Alrighty.... 5160, 4140 it is.... Hmmmmmm... If I use 4140-4160 then I can maybe buy some round stock too and make my own hammers to hit it with...... A little ambitious, but what the heck!

I knew 5160 was commonly used on them. And, that's a great point about D2 being air hardening...I just wanted to use the best steel possible.
And find it locally so I can make it this weekend.

I'll just have to look to Ray for inspiration again and peruse this thread again.... http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/835977-Seeing-if-I-still-can Well, Hmmmm..... Now I need a bigger anvil. 129# isn't going to cut it for drifting eyes in a hammer head. especially if I use a Raymond special 6# hammer.... :(

WHEN DOES ONE STOP BUYING TOOLS AND ACTUALLY START MAKING KNIVES??? :eek::);):D

And... I found a local source.... Off to get me some steel! Pacific Tool and Machinery!
 
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That second picture (orange machine) is mine. Mine is called "Globzilla". The orange parts are made from mild steel with grade 8 bolts.

The blades were made from an old mobile home trailer spring. I straightened them using the forge, then heat treated like I would 5160. I drew them back to around 450 degrees. They have been kicking now for several years.

Thanks to my pal Ray "Big-Boy" Richard.

Robert
 
Thanks for the redirection. I realy did believe it was a certain type of knife to be used holding it in your hand. Frank
 
lazlo said:
D2 is an air-hardening tool steel. Isn't that going to be an issue on a hot fullering tool?

4140 sounds good to me. Pre hard even better.
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The "jaws" shouldn't get above the tempering temperature let alone hot enough to harden them.

There should be enough mass in the jaws to prevent them from getting too hot.
 
I vote for the 4140 also.. Glad you found pacific. It is right up there by you. :eek:Oh no another money pit to throw your hard earned $$$ into.:D:D I would be in real trouble if I had it that close to me. As it is they get a chunk of my $$ too. If you find some round 4140 we can draw it out to the right dimensions when you come down next time. In fact Cherry City has a bunch of large 4140 (1.5-3" rounds) if you wanted to wait and get it for 65 cents/lb. I have some as well so let me know what your plans are.

Take Care
 
A C Richards said:
I vote for the 4140 also.. Glad you found pacific. It is right up there by you. :eek:Oh no another money pit to throw your hard earned $$$ into.:D:D I would be in real trouble if I had it that close to me. As it is they get a chunk of my $$ too. If you find some round 4140 we can draw it out to the right dimensions when you come down next time. In fact Cherry City has a bunch of large 4140 (1.5-3" rounds) if you wanted to wait and get it for 65 cents/lb. I have some as well so let me know what your plans are.

Take Care
Click to expand...

I'm awfully tempted to drive back to Cherry City... Those 3" rounds of 52100 are sooo tempting.... You know, for "someday".... :o
Yeah, heading to Pacific tomorrow... Worked OT today and missed it, but....now I have OT money! I'm just glad Cherry City's far enough away to keep me from going back every day.... :( My shop is 2-3 minutes from Pacific... I think I'm in trouble....PG O1 .......Mmmmmmm only 10 blocks away....:D:D:D

I'll plan on coming down the next Saturday you're free, 08/13/11 and see what I can learn. If you want to pour your slab before then I can come down most any Saturday with notice.:thumbup:
 
fluidsteel said:
And, that's a great point about D2 being air hardening...
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Yeah, but you realize that if you get a D2 fuller hot enough to air-harden, you've already wayyyy over-heated the piece you're working on, right? Just sayin'.

Anyway, it makes sense that 4140 or similar would be a great choice for that tool, that's pretty much exactly what it's designed for.
 
photo(2).JPG

So, I have my steel, I picked up a piece of 1-3/4"x1-3/4x14" 4140 as well. I'm going to make a post anvil for my hardie hole.
It's inspired by Chuck Richards' post anvil I used for forging in my ricasso on my hunter I'm working on....

I got 32" of 3/4"x2" 4140....for my fuller tool. :thumbup: I'm ready to go.

Before I build it, does anyone else have one that they like or dislike for design mods?

Walking into Pacific was like going to Disneyland... 4140, D2, O1, S7, 5160...:D:D:D
Must..... resist......buying........:rolleyes:
 
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