Tinker w/ Opinels--blunting the tip & more

annr

annr

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Nov 15, 2006
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I purchased a 10-piece set of Opinels for the express purpose of tinkering. Before I begin I need to blunt the ends of a few of the blades. I don’t want a pointed tip and won’t be using it or the curve of the blade. Any suggestions for techniques to blunt the tip so that I won’t poke/stab myself?

Also, has anyone swapped handles and blades and how did you do so? fx. I would like to put the No. 6 blade on the No.7 handle.

Finally, I have been unable to open the #8. Suggestions on how to open?
 
Sometimes they're a little tight. I'd oil the pivot (one drop would about do it) then use pliers. Pad the jaws with tape if you like. You could also pry in the nail nick with a screwdriver, etc.
 
To open the stuck Opinel try tapping the butt end of the handle on a hard surface to knock the blade loose.

To round the tip any belt sander or coarse sharpening stone will easily do it.
 
if you want to reshape the tip for a purpose a file, stone or powered grinder will work fine (with power tools keep it cool with frequent dunks in water). if you want to blunt it to make it safer to work on, i would say just tape up the whole blade with some masking tape or duct tape (i prefer cheap duct tape or masking tape most often). then you can take it off and the blade is unchanged.

to switch blades you will need to first take off the locking collar (grab with pliers and pull really hard with the blade closed). then file or grind off one side of the peened pin so that you can take it out. i suggest sanding out some of the slot to make it a bit wider and polishing the sides of the blade that are in the handle. then you will have to get a nail or brass rod that will fit the hole tightly and make it into a rivet with a hammer (i like a small cross or ball peen hammer). attach the blade and push the locking collar back into place.
 
I haven't had a chance to tinker yet or try to open that stuck blade; hope to get to it this weekend.

siguy, I put some of that blue painter's tape on the edge and tip for safety's sake and it should come off w/o leaving any goo, but of course, the knife doesn't close w/o removing the tape. You've nearly convinced me that I probably don't have the chops to be switching out the blades.:) but I'll take a look when I'm more alert.:yawn: At least it sounds doable.

Edit: the reason I'm wanting a blunt end is that it poses a safety hazard for the application I have in mind. And I speak from experience:(

Vivi,Dutch V,Roger999,siguy
I don't own a bench grinder, just a Tormek grinder (maybe this would work?), so I'll be softening that tip/edge by hand and will likely have a question or two. In the meantime, thanks!
 
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Opinels steels are soft. I've hade a couple fall from my counter and the tip would always mushroom. Shouldn't take long with a file or rubbing on the sidewalk.

To disassemble it just stick a screw driver in the notch part of the ring that locks the blade closed, aim at your sister/wife/cat and lift the screw driver up. Next get a blunted nail and tap the pin out with a hammer.

I sugest you also shape the handle to your liking with some sandpaper then apply a few coats of linseed oil. Thes will keep the handle from swelling and the blade getting stuck like your #8.
 
tabeeb762 said:
To disassemble it just stick a screw driver in the notch part of the ring that locks the blade closed, aim at your sister/wife/cat and lift the screw driver up.
Click to expand...

????not at the mother-in-law???:D:confused:;)

tabeeb762 said:
Opinels steels are soft. I've hade a couple fall from my counter and the tip would always mushroom. Shouldn't take long with a file or rubbing on the sidewalk.
Click to expand...

Mind reader, are you? I had simultaneously been mentally waving my knife in the general direction of the sidewalk and wondering where I put that cinder block...
 
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the sidewalk is a good idea, it should work fine.

i once saw a site where a woodworker used his tormek to grind chisels down to different widths all the time. he showed photos of a 1/2" chisel taken way down to it looked like around 1/4"...why he didn't just get a different chisel is beyond me, but it was neat and the grinder did a very clean job with the jig he used.

the pin isn't actually as much work as it sounds, i just tried to lay it out as well as i could for you, so i was a bit wordy. actually i need to get a few more and try some mods, i haven't played with any opinels in quite a while. the one that i EDCd for several months is awefully tight in the summer, so i have gone to regular slipjoints...but they are good knives that can really take alot more than you might think originally...and they cut great too!
 
Yes! I finally got #8 open.
I was able to insert some 280# sandpaper between the wood and the blade by bending the steel away from the wood. After some vigorous sanding, holding the sand paper with a pliers I got some daylight between the blade and the wood.

Next, one solid 'TAP' on the butt:) and the thing opened like it were planning to open all along.
 
I'd imagine if you are using these as reed knives you could likely just grind off the tip completely and dull the last 1/4" completely.
 
65535 said:
I'd imagine if you are using these as reed knives you could likely just grind off the tip completely and dull the last 1/4" completely.
Click to expand...

That's a possibility I'm debating. In some cases I'd be left with a pretty short knife. So I'm still thinking it through, and then need to fit the technique to the fix....:confused: Thanks.:)
 
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