Tinning a bolster before soldering ??

M

Mooreblades

Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
29
I am new to this method and knifemaking. I have a 440C blade(fully tempered) that I am attaching 304 SS bolsters and butt plate to. I am unable to pin them so I was recommended to solder them.
I have read many forums and youtube videos on soldering but none to show how to actually tin correctly...cool ... Then reheat and attach both bolsters to the blade. My last
resort is just using epoxy but I really don't want to have any internal lines showing from the bolster. I would like a one piece fitted look (one piece forged look) on top as well as the blade side.
I do have silver solder, torch, and steel flux. just not sure what orders to proceed (tinning both bolsters first, then blade, attaching bolsters and reheating blade to melt solder??)
I also read not to use vise grips but finger claps when attaching... thoughts?
Any help or links would be VERY appreciated !!!
 
You may need different supplies and a lot more experience than you have. Soldering stainless to stainless and getting a seamless solder joint takes the right solder, flux, and perfect heat control. I would not bother trying to tin the parts first.

Practice on some scrap pieces until you get it down. The biggest enemy will be heat. Overheat by as little as 25 degrees beyond the flow point of the solder and the joint will not take. A heat gun may be a good heat source for this joint.
 
Pins are so much easier when doing full tang construction!

I tin parts when soldering SS bolsters to SS liners on folders. Got this from T.Bose after not being able to get the solder to flow and fill the joint. I can not solder SS to SS without tinning!

I use the SS solder and flux from K&G.
 
Solid carbide drill bits will let you drill hardened steel.
but they are fragile, use them carefully
 
I too got it from T. Bose--- as Don Hanson III, and John L. said above.
The only way ss to ss works. Pre tin the parts.
Ken.
 
I stated my point very poorly. What I meant was that his solder type, metals being soldered, and methods seemed like they would not work well for a brand new maker.

I also pre-tin many parts, but I have gained some experience at that.
 
bladsmth said:
I stated my point very poorly. What I meant was that his solder type, metals being soldered, and methods seemed like they would not work well for a brand new maker.

I also pre-tin many parts, but I have gained some experience at that.
Click to expand...
Makes better sense, Stacy...
 
William Schrade said:
Why can't you use pins?
Click to expand...
bladsmth
Probably a pre-hardened blade.

bladsmth is correct !! This is a project that I am working on for my uncle for xmas. He picked out the
blade from USA with stag scales to go on it. When I got the knife, the bolsters were only 1/8" and the
he wanted the larger thicker scales and bolsters. So I grinded off the bolsters and made 2 new ones out of 304 SS. (Jay Fishers recommendation)

Yes I am very new to the knife making world. I have made 7 knifes to this point but mostly using 1084
that I buy bar stock and HT, grind, and scale myself. This is my first time using 440C fully tempered.
I did try to make pin holes in it with cobalt bits but I don't have a drill press which made this impossible.

I am a very studious person and have read countless books and videos on this subject. I really want to
learn this craft and have been reading the forums daily.

Thanks to everyone's responses and look forward to learning a lot more from all of you !!!!
 
If you blade blank is polished I like to rough a bit with 400-600 grit, just to take the shine off and only under the bolster. I also tin, and second the heat issue, really slow, heat, remove heat see if solder melts, heat remove heat, see if solder melts,

you only need to remove the heat for 3-4 seconds to see if the solder is going to melt, slowly, that is the trick.
 
I first of all wanted to thank everyone for all of your wisdom and training !!
All of your advises were taken and used on this project.
With all of my new education, here are my results ....

6245.jpg
[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

m4fj.jpg
[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
 
This thread has been very interesting and informative. The knife looks great Mooreblades. Did you happen to take a picture of the solder joint?
 
I thought I got better pixs, but the pixs has soo much glare it is hard to see. These were the best without glare.
Unfortunately, this was not the best tinning job but it was my first from everyone's help.

pl2u.jpg
[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

9axs.jpg
[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
 
The knife looks really good. It is hard to see but it seems as if you have left some gaps in your joints between the blade and the bolsters. Did you heat and apply solder to the joint after you pinned on the bolsters?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top