FWIW, I've done some playing with platen covers.
Graphite Belt
Thick leather
Bare Steel
Pyroceram
Here's what I've found:
* Steel is fine, but looses flat and attracts a magnet.
* Pyroceram stays flatter longer, but you have to ground yourself to the machine, because of static charges. And it is easy to crack.
* Graphite Belt is nice for blending or working out scratches.
----------------------------------------------------
But my new best friend is leather! A nice thick piece that has had lithium/moly grease rubbed in.
Not for blade grinding, but handle work.
For example, when shaping bolsters I like an angle cut in the front of it. Against a hard platen you can get some bump (even with the best belts) and it's easy to make flat spots. If you do keep things perfect while shaping you also get hard edges. Then I have to clean it up by hand.
However, with leather you get softer edges, smoother operation, and easier to avoid flat spots.
I get great results with leather and the following sequence (416ss and wood):
120 grit to do initial shape
220 grit for final shape
16 micron to smooth it out
9 micron to remove scratches
then to the buffer.
The point is leather backing rocks for this kinda work. I don't have any hand work for cleanup.
Steve
Graphite Belt
Thick leather
Bare Steel
Pyroceram
Here's what I've found:
* Steel is fine, but looses flat and attracts a magnet.
* Pyroceram stays flatter longer, but you have to ground yourself to the machine, because of static charges. And it is easy to crack.
* Graphite Belt is nice for blending or working out scratches.
----------------------------------------------------
But my new best friend is leather! A nice thick piece that has had lithium/moly grease rubbed in.
Not for blade grinding, but handle work.
For example, when shaping bolsters I like an angle cut in the front of it. Against a hard platen you can get some bump (even with the best belts) and it's easy to make flat spots. If you do keep things perfect while shaping you also get hard edges. Then I have to clean it up by hand.
However, with leather you get softer edges, smoother operation, and easier to avoid flat spots.
I get great results with leather and the following sequence (416ss and wood):
120 grit to do initial shape
220 grit for final shape
16 micron to smooth it out
9 micron to remove scratches
then to the buffer.
The point is leather backing rocks for this kinda work. I don't have any hand work for cleanup.
Steve