- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 243
This is a tip to improve the fit of handle slabs to full tang blades.
They are easier to fit with no gap if you either hollow grind the tang or the backside of the handle material. That way only a band around the periphery of the handle material will be in direct contact with the tang. Even though I hollow grind the tang before tapering, most of that is gone by the time the taper is ground. In that case, the backside of the handle slab can be hollow ground.
I've countersunk holes, I've scraped high spots, I've gone back to the grinder to take humps off the tang, and before Brian Lyttle turned me on to this trick, I never thought to just eliminate the high spots in the first place.
On some designs I do the hollowing on the belt grinder, and in others I just use a burr in my flex-shaft machine. This improves the glue bond by providing a little more room for the epoxy, and roughs up the inside of the handle material nicely.
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Matt Harildstad
Knifemaker
www.planet.eon.net/~matth
matth@planet.eon.net
They are easier to fit with no gap if you either hollow grind the tang or the backside of the handle material. That way only a band around the periphery of the handle material will be in direct contact with the tang. Even though I hollow grind the tang before tapering, most of that is gone by the time the taper is ground. In that case, the backside of the handle slab can be hollow ground.
I've countersunk holes, I've scraped high spots, I've gone back to the grinder to take humps off the tang, and before Brian Lyttle turned me on to this trick, I never thought to just eliminate the high spots in the first place.
On some designs I do the hollowing on the belt grinder, and in others I just use a burr in my flex-shaft machine. This improves the glue bond by providing a little more room for the epoxy, and roughs up the inside of the handle material nicely.
------------------
Matt Harildstad
Knifemaker
www.planet.eon.net/~matth
matth@planet.eon.net