Tip regrind tip

Joined
Sep 15, 2013
Messages
5,648
Hi everyone. I have some questions for you, guys, thanks for all replies beforehand!
I am about to receive my new next fixed blade, the Spyderco Jumpmaster (see pics), all scratched up and used. I plan to mod it.

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I don't mind its looks, as I pretend to use it a lot and I want to regrind/reprofile the tip so as to make it pointy. Our fellow member Surfingringo did it on his, creating kind of a sheepsfoot blade with fine point.

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I wanted to know:
1- having no power tools other than a Dremel, what woulkd you use to reprofile?
2- can the H1 steel blade be overheated, and its "temper" ruined, given the fact that it isn't heat treated?
3- would the steel suffer extreme hardening due to the heat of the grinding wheel?
4- would you do a "sheepsfoot" shape, or would you rather make a Wharncliff out of it (like the Kahr arms Delica has)?

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Thanks much, and any tip or advice will be highly appreciated! :thumbup:
 
For re-profiling a blade made of soft-hardened steel, I'd use regular files.

If the blade is made of hard-hardened steel, I'd use either an extra-coarse diamond file or an extra-coarse diamond hone.

To determine which to use I would try a regular file first. If the regular file were able to "bite" into the steel, then I'd stick with that. If the regular file just "skipped" across the blade without "biting" then I would use diamond.

You have to be really careful, and go really slowly, when using a power tool on the tip of the blade, with constant, repetitive dipping into cold water. It's very easy to produce too much heat on such a thin area of the blade. And once you overheat it you can't fix it. That's why I prefer files. Files are slow, but considering how slowly you would have to go to avoid overheating when using a power tool, I find that files are actually faster, and with much less risk of damaging the blade.
 
Dremel with the thinnest cut off wheels would be my choice; H1 isn't a "soft" steel by any means at 57-58rc so I don't know how effective files would be in working it but it's worth trying if you're curious.

Any mods I've done were with a dremel/rotary tool with the thinnest cut off wheels 1/32" thick or even thinner than that as they seem to be the most accurate for cutting off a piece of the blade. I clean up the cut section with one or two small belt grinders and would recommend getting an inexpensive 1x30 belt grinder for blade mods.


First mod wasn't my work but I posted it for your motivation OP... The tip is insanely sharp; as in, sharper than a hypodermic literally. :D:thumbup::cool:

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Full hardness ZDP189 was a bear to work with IMHO... :eek::o

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