Tips and tricks for hamon clay

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

Joined
Aug 13, 2002
Messages
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In chat this week, Butch (butcher_block) shared with us this little trick: “Old potters trick: mix your clay with white vinegar, it shrinks less when it evaporates.”

I thought I'd share for people who were not there. (You should really come in on Wednesday nights. The fun starts at 9PM or whenever Sam Salvati arrives. ;)).

If you have any other tips concerning the clay aspect of hamons, fell free to share. Or come to chat and tell us there. ;)
 
Patrice Lemée;9449751 said:
In chat this week, Butch (butcher_block) shared with us this little trick: “Old potters trick: mix your clay with white vinegar, it shrinks less when it evaporates.”

I thought I'd share for people who were not there. (You should really come in on Wednesday nights. The fun starts at 9PM or whenever Sam Salvati arrives. ;)).

If you have any other tips concerning the clay aspect of hamons, fell free to share. Or come to chat and tell us there. ;)
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less is more

I struggled for years with putting too much clay on

the best hamon is created by using VERY little clay, but you have to hit your temperature dead on. just a little too hot and it won't work
 
I do love chat! I learned a lot this week about alternate materials for file handles, it was intellectually stimulating.

It is nice to throw out questions that don't really merit a whole thread.

I tried a hamon this week for the first time and it didn't come out right. I painted the clay on too thin I think. I put the clay on thicker (1/16" ?) in the middle of the kiridashi and got a nice hamon where the wrap goes! I was using Rutland cement which I have heard mixed reviews on, it was probably the thickness though I'm guessing.

The Walley Hayes Tactical Katana video has a great section on how he does his hamons, I really learned a lot. I feel like the next one will be nicer.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
I do love chat! I learned a lot this week about alternate materials for file handles, it was intellectually stimulating.

It is nice to throw out questions that don't really merit a whole thread.

I tried a hamon this week for the first time and it didn't come out right. I painted the clay on too thin I think. I put the clay on thicker (1/16" ?) in the middle of the kiridashi and got a nice hamon where the wrap goes! I was using Rutland cement which I have heard mixed reviews on, it was probably the thickness though I'm guessing.

The Walley Hayes Tactical Katana video has a great section on how he does his hamons, I really learned a lot. I feel like the next one will be nicer.
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I spent a LONG time traipsing down that road.

I promise you, temperature is MUCH more important than thickness of clay.
 
stephanfowler said:
I spent a LONG time traipsing down that road.

I promise you, temperature is MUCH more important than thickness of clay.
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It makes a lot of sense. This was the first time I HT'd 1095 and I was worried about quenching it quickly, after watching the video last night I realize my steel was too hot. I probably went from kiln to brine in half a second which I know isn't important!

Thanks!
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
It makes a lot of sense. This was the first time I HT'd 1095 and I was worried about quenching it quickly, after watching the video last night I realize my steel was too hot. I probably went from kiln to brine in half a second which I know isn't important!

Thanks!
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I do 1095 FG at 1520 with a 5 minute soak.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
1525F with a 5-6 minute soak was what I did.
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I also use Parks #50 and you said you use brine, I would drop to 1475 if I were you and work my way up in 10 degree increments till I got the results I wanted.

if your putting clay on 1/16 thick you shouldn't need to go any thicker.
 
stephanfowler said:
I also use Parks #50 and you said you use brine, I would drop to 1475 if I were you and work my way up in 10 degree increments till I got the results I wanted.

Thanks for the great tip, I will do that next time. I have a bit of 1095 to work with so I can experiment.


if your putting clay on 1/16 thick you shouldn't need to go any thicker.

OK, I'll do that. Where it was 1/16" it hamoned nicely but the clay was way too thin where I wanted the pattern. At least the steel is hard, lol.
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Thanks again!
 
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