Tips for Batoning?

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Jul 28, 2011
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Ok... regarding this whole batoning thing... I'm convinced.

I'm searching through the archive and on the web. Finding lots of pros and cons. Some good advice, which makes sense to me, especially regarding not trying to do too much with too little knife as a way of avoiding breaking a knife. Respecting the limits of gear is something I understand.

But, I would love to find some more concrete tips on how to baton with a full length, but not full width tang knife without busting it.

Here's some of the full story...

My buddy and I went out for an overnight ski tour up in New Hampshire. Nothing epic but at our age, just getting out is an accomplishment. The old logging roads and rail beds make for good ski touring.



Spring touring by Pinnah, on Flickr


We were in an area where fires were allowed. I had a small folding saw an my old H-15. It's an older knife. 5" blade but not the full width tang favored today.


h-15-sheath by Pinnah, on Flickr


We camped near this river and had an early supper along the river.

East Branch Pemi by Pinnah, on Flickr

Despite the sunny skies and taking old dead fall from past storms like Irene that was up off the ground well above the super wet snow, much of the wood was damp due to the recent snow. I stuck to relatively small wood and kept the fire relatively small (enough to cook hot dogs!). But, and this was the a-hah moment for me, splitting some of the wet wood really made the difference in getting a fire going solidly and without struggling with a smoking mess.


Streamside fire by Pinnah, on Flickr

I think the H-15 has earned its way into my pack. This is a big deal for a guy who's relied 100% on his Svea 123 and a pocket knife for decades.


I've found the advice to avoid letting the handle drop below the level of the blade.

But I would love to hear some specific advice on how to baton without busting knives like this H-15.

Thanks,
 
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Looks like a great day out! Lots of sunshine and snow - gifts from heaven!

As to batonning recommendations, I try to not baton through more than about 1/2 the blade length (that's kinda clunky, but I'm not sure how best to say what I'm thinking). Anyway... that way I can be sure I'm not over stressing the blade trying to "bite off more than it can chew" - meaning I don't have to baton too hard trying to split wood that's too thick.

Also, I tend to strike the knife directly over the area I'm splitting - I know that sounds obvious, but again, I'm assuring that all the force goes directly onto what I'm splitting.

BTW, i love your pics of the Durand - was there Feb 2003 (wicked winds going up Adams though....).
 
No reason you couldn't baton with your knife. You're not hitting the handle, which is where the stick tang in the knife is. You just want to be sure you're only splitting wood that will leave you a couple of inches on the tip to baton. Then, find a good stick and whack away (on the spine of the blade of course).
BTW, the Kabar Mk II and its variations, as well as most scandi knives, use stick tangs and have for centuries. They can be batonned all day long, so long as the job suits the knife length. And the knife will be more than strong enough for anything you throw its way. Now abusing it on the other hand.......
 
Wind on Adams? Like gambling at Ricks!! If you weren't crawlin'....

Jim, yeh the reports of people using Moras and kabars successfully give me hope. Just want to avoid the bad stuff
 
I baton with my beckers (particularly the bk9) with no problems at all. The 9 involves no technique: step 1, beat knife. Step 2, enjoy your freshly split wood.

However, i also do some light batoning with my izula2. Seeing as it's a significantly shorter blade, i find the biggest mistake in batoning is in selecting the wood you're trying to process. Don't bite off more than your knife can chew.
 
Don't twist the blade while batonning. The lateral stress is what will break it. Keep the guard or choil from catching on the wood you are splitting.
 
Don't baton with a rock. :)

It's common sense but don't try to baton through knots in the wood.

This plus I try to baton around the wood rather then straight through the middle. Just baton the small pieces off the large piece rather then biforcating the branch several times. I'm also one who batons a mora and knowing when to stop is important. You should be using light taps at say 50% strength. If you have to ramp up the force to get the knife moving, stop and find another piece to split.

I have to say though I've been having pretty good luck with wedges lately. I started practicing with them for those times in summer where I just carry a neck knife and it works really well. If I had an old workhorse knife like that I wouldn't want to risk breaking the tang or, more likely, the tip off. Use the knife to start the split and then finish with the wedge. This protects the tip because you're hitting in the middle of the knife above(/in line with) the wood rather than right on the small tip.
 
Great suggestions folks. Much, much appreciated. Please keep 'em coming if you can.

These are much more specific and detailed than what I've been able to find in my searches and has been very helpful.

"Know when to stop" is nice, but not entirely helpful when I don't know.
 
Great suggestions folks. Much, much appreciated. Please keep 'em coming if you can.

These are much more specific and detailed than what I've been able to find in my searches and has been very helpful.

"Know when to stop" is nice, but not entirely helpful when I don't know.
I'm not sure how else to describe it. Maybe get a mora and baton that for a while to get the hang of how much force is really necessary. It's not much. A lot of force is necessary when there's a knot or twisted grain in the wood. Two things you should avoid so if your knife stops in the middle of the piece of wood, it's best to move on to another piece rather than forcing the knife through with a more powerful swing of the baton.
 
I was never one to baton but, like you, found it is a help when building a fire in the wet woods.

One way to go easy on a nice knife is to simply whittle a chisel or wedged end on one of the pieces of wood. Start the split on your next piece with your knife, then baton the piece of wood with the wedged end to finish the splitting.

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
But I would love to hear some specific advice on how to baton without busting knives like this H-15.

Thanks,

In my opinion, worth what you paid for it, it is all in the wood selection.Not the knife.

I'll baton hand picked straight grained poplar all day long, with any knife, to get a good bed of coals.

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And yes, that ZT0550 survived just fine.

Now if you aren't selective about which chunks of wood , that is when bad things happen. Of course, that is just my opinion.
 
Cutting wooden wedges is a great way to take the stresses of batoning off the knife and on to something expendable/easily replaced in the field.

-sh00ter

+1 on the wooden wedges. Especially with coated blades, as most large knives are these days.
WD-40 or similar helps some, if you don't mind having one small canister in your pack.
 
Brains not brawn

I saw pieces half way thru then bang them on a rock
They split very fast
Then I baton

When I am using a rat tail tang, I usually only baton thin pieces of wood
But if I have a thicker piece of wood, I slice the side of the piece, turning it around till I get to the center
 
I find it helps to belittle and curse the wood soundly while batoning. It takes away inner strength and self esteem, and the wood goes to pieces much easier.

You can also question the wood's parentage and ability to earn a living and provide for it's family, question it's loyalty and patriotism, and worth to society.

If the tree is from Canada, act offended by something the wood said, and it will be overly apologetic, and do it's best to split easily........... Canadian wood tends to be very polite.
 
i find it helps to belittle and curse the wood soundly while batoning. It takes away inner strength and self esteem, and the wood goes to pieces much easier.

You can also question the wood's parentage and ability to earn a living and provide for it's family, question it's loyalty and patriotism, and worth to society.

If the tree is from canada, act offended by something the wood said, and it will be overly apologetic, and do it's best to split easily........... Canadian wood tends to be very polite.

potd!!!
 
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