Hi. I have a couple of knives that I want to make and I want them to have a very antique look to them. My plan is after I get the outline of the blades cut out I will do a heavy treatment and try to get it really pitted and etched. After I grind the bevels I would do a lighter treatment to etch them but not get them pitted. What I am not sure about is if I am supposed to clean off the excess bluing before I soak it in the bleach, and how long I should soak it in the bleach. Also what should I do after soaking? The steel I plan on using is O1. Thanks in advance.
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Tips for gun bluing and bleach?
- Thread starter ryan7195
- Start date
I read some threads about how people use gun blue on blades and soak them in bleach to antique them. I am not sure what kind to use.
Those are some great looking kinves! But its not exactly the look i am after, i want it to have the texture of an old tool that has rusted for years and years. If that makes any sense.
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First know that it results in chlorine gas and yes that can be deadly. I'd advise against the whole process.
Having said that, I've fooled with it and the instant you apply the bluing dunk it in a cup of bleach. A glass cup works good because you can see the reaction. If I recall correctly it took ten or 15 minutes or so and basicly turned into an absolute crusted red rusty mass. Clean that off and repeat as necessary.
Once again though, you are mixing Ammonia and Bleach, bad idea.
Having said that, I've fooled with it and the instant you apply the bluing dunk it in a cup of bleach. A glass cup works good because you can see the reaction. If I recall correctly it took ten or 15 minutes or so and basicly turned into an absolute crusted red rusty mass. Clean that off and repeat as necessary.
Once again though, you are mixing Ammonia and Bleach, bad idea.
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I knew I had this link saved for a reason... http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/824127-forced-pitting-heavy-patina
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Nevermind
Last edited:
Bill DeShivs
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Baking soda does nothing to neutralize bleach. Bleach is not an acid.
Mixing table salt, bleach and water will give you a very pitted mess in about an hour.
I doubt cold bluing adds anything to the mixture. The bleach will eat it off immediately.
Mixing table salt, bleach and water will give you a very pitted mess in about an hour.
I doubt cold bluing adds anything to the mixture. The bleach will eat it off immediately.
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Cold blueing most definitely makes THE difference!
This is a forged blade in Aldo's 1084; you can see some of the forged texture that was preserved near the spine but the remainder of the blade was coated with BC cold blue and soaked for some minutes in household bleach. That step produces a definite pitted texture that soaking in bleach alone will not. I never apply bluing near finish-ground edges after a hard lesson or three. The pitting can be surprisingly deep.
Some people dry the bluing by baking/heatgun/etc. I see no point in doing that. The BC bluing paste sits on the steel in the pattern it was applied and I have never had the bleach "eat it off" within the soak times I've used (5 to 60 min).
I suggest playing around outside with some scrap steel of choice. Use different tools to apply the cold blue. Dabbing usually gives more interesting results than brushing it on evenly IME. Use different soak times in relation to the thickness of the bluing's application. The outcome becomes more predictable the more you experiment.
This is a forged blade in Aldo's 1084; you can see some of the forged texture that was preserved near the spine but the remainder of the blade was coated with BC cold blue and soaked for some minutes in household bleach. That step produces a definite pitted texture that soaking in bleach alone will not. I never apply bluing near finish-ground edges after a hard lesson or three. The pitting can be surprisingly deep.
Some people dry the bluing by baking/heatgun/etc. I see no point in doing that. The BC bluing paste sits on the steel in the pattern it was applied and I have never had the bleach "eat it off" within the soak times I've used (5 to 60 min).
I suggest playing around outside with some scrap steel of choice. Use different tools to apply the cold blue. Dabbing usually gives more interesting results than brushing it on evenly IME. Use different soak times in relation to the thickness of the bluing's application. The outcome becomes more predictable the more you experiment.
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yes without the gunblue the bleach does nothing, well nothing to note in any amount of time anyway..with the gunblue you start seeing the effect within seconds..We have been using this method for years for reenactors and such..It works very well..You just have to try it and see how you like it..The longer it sets the more aggressive it gets..We only use it when someone asks for it but it works very well if you know how to do it..
Here is where people do things differently..Sme etch 5 minutes,some 20 minutes..I do for an hour
You dont have to have all the scratches removed down to 1000 grit or anything like that..This aggresive etch does it for you..LOL
Now after an hour your probably gonna start insulting my ancestors, cursing that Ive ruined your knife/hawk.....Just fill a container with belach and place the head in the bleach..It will start rusting in seconds..
Out of the bleach...Looks like its been in the creek for a month
Now all you have to do is take a wire brush to it..
No pitting just a deep etch..
Here is where people do things differently..Sme etch 5 minutes,some 20 minutes..I do for an hour
You dont have to have all the scratches removed down to 1000 grit or anything like that..This aggresive etch does it for you..LOL
Now after an hour your probably gonna start insulting my ancestors, cursing that Ive ruined your knife/hawk.....Just fill a container with belach and place the head in the bleach..It will start rusting in seconds..
Out of the bleach...Looks like its been in the creek for a month
Now all you have to do is take a wire brush to it..
No pitting just a deep etch..
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- Jul 23, 2006
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- 1,231
Here are some pieces I did using J Neilsons Cold Blue/Mustard bleach boil method. I love it! It adds a long lasting, pitted patina. It is dangerous though. Make sure to do it in an open area. I do it in my garage with the doors wide open.
