Tips for removing scratches on a blade?

[fsatsil]

I got a great deal on a Kershaw 1993 that has some minor sharpening scratches on the blade and I'd like to remove them. The problem is the blade can't be removed so I can't just stick it in the vice and sand away. I started sanding a bit yesterday with some 320grit wet/dry paper and I've removed a lot of the scratches but its going very very slowly and I think it would literally take me a month to get back to the origional mirror finish! So does anyone have any tips or tricks? Also how do I avoid rounding the tip? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[singularity35]

Replace scratches with larger or deeper scratches.

 

[ryxlyx]

I've taken quite a few blades (both faces) down to 3000 grit, or even full polish. Trick is to apply the blade to the s'paper-- not vice-versa. Wrap the handle w/ plastic, put the paper on a flat surface (I sand on glass for this stuff, doesn't get much flatter) and have at it! Harder you press, the faster it goes. DON'T apply pressure using the handle, apply w/ the finger flattening the blade. You won't round the tip cuz you'll never touch the tip-- you're working towards a perfectly flat plane, w/ the paper never leaving the blade face:

This one was coated s30v, pix taken at around 1000 grit (I left this one at either 1000 or 1500 just cuz I wanted some sparkle-- usually run it to 3000 for a near-polish). Also done a few M4 and a D2.

 

[ryxlyx]

Regards time spent on these blades I kept track of it on the last one, which was an M4 coated blade that I ran from coated w/ all the orig (COARSE) grind lines underneath to a near polish using 320/400/600/1000/1500/2000/2500/3000. M4 is tough--it was 5 hours intense handsanding over 2 days. Depends a bit on the situation but when you've got it perfectly flat at 320 you're close to halfway there (once it's flat, you run thru the grits pretty quickly as all you're doing is overlaying one set of scratches that are finer than the existing scratches).

I don't talk about the time spent much as I invariably get some yoyo who has to comment about what a colossal waste of time my projects are. To each his own. A belt sander and a buffing wheel are not going to give you FLAT.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Ryx- which m4 knife did you grind?

I too have hand ground a number of blades. The last being d2, and I agree, take the blade to the paper.

Every single time I look at my beloved 810 Contego I think about removing the Cerakote. It's a very nice finish, but I'm good at caring for my blades. I don't need a coating!

 

[fsatsil]

Thanks alot guys Im going to try it the way RYXLYX said and hopefully ill have better results. I just have a few more questions and Ill quit buggin ya. Ive been sanding wet using soapy water and a back n forth motion. Do you recommend sanding in a single direction or a back and forth scrubbing motion? Wet or Dry? Thanks again for the help.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Back and forth, wet.

You'll need to do it one way then (once you're convinced that you've done a good job) switch to sanding at a 90° angle using the same grit, before stepping to the next grit paper.

In other words, if you're sanding with back and forth strokes from tip to ricosso, you'll need to switch direction, sanding from spine to edge.

May seem weird at first, but trust me, you need to do it.

 

[fsatsil]

Thanks I always alternate 90 degrees when switching grits it makes it so much easier to see if I removed all the scratches from the previous grit. The tip to stick the sand paper to a block or piece of glass has been a lifesaver! Its so much easier that way and I'm finally making some progress. Thanks a lot guys I really appreciate the help.