Tips for Sharpening Rodent Solution Factory Edge?

BenL

BenL

Joined
Sep 18, 2012
Messages
198
My dudes,

I broke out my first ever Busse/kin, a sweet Rodent Solution circa 2012, to whack up some corrugated cardboard boxes. The boxes in question were coated in slick covering of advertising box art...stuff...whatever you call it. Even cutting parallel to the corrugations, I was less than pleased with the Rodent's lack of Solution. Any tips for bringing this thing to a keener edge? I believe it has a convex edge from the factory. I gave it a few passes on a Fallkniven DC-3; a couple moving perpendicular to the edge and a few stropping motions away from the edge. Before I go and annihilate this factory convex edge, what do?

Edit to add: I don't have nor can I currently afford a high-end system like a Wicked Edge or similara. Best I have is a Lansky kit with the guided rods, but I've never achieved desired results with it on test knives. Resigned myself to field sharpening by hand, hence the Fallkniven DC-3 and DMT Diafold. Normally I can get my knives decently sharp, but a convex edge is a beast I am not prepared to battle.
IdtWOPK.jpg

I appreciate any input here. My sharpening stuff is limited to a Fallkniven DC-3, a DMT Diafold, and some two-sided whetstone I got off Amazon of questionable quality. I also have a crapload of sandpaper between 400 and spongy 3000 3M Trizact paper.

Please advise how to proceed getting my Rodent Solution factory edge to a slicier rat.

Many thanks,

BenL
 
Last edited:
BenL said:
I gave it a few passes on a Fallkniven DC-3; a couple moving perpendicular to the edge and a few stropping motions away from the edge. Before I go and annihilate this factory convex edge, what do?
Click to expand...
If you gave a few perpendicular swipes, the edge is gone.

Please advise how to proceed getting my Rodent Solution factory edge to a slicier rat.
Click to expand...
If you want slicey, send it off for a reprofiling. Sorry, but that's the curse of Bussekin...thick edged, virtually indestructible blades might be good for a few things, and adequate for a lot things; but slicey they are not.

(If you just want it sharp, you can sharpen it the way you would any other knife...if you're okay with getting rid of the convex. If you want to keep it, get yourself a strop
 
Last edited:
What HHMoore said. Strops can be had for a fairly reasonable amount of money, from several places on the internet. I got one with black paste on one side, green on the other. Does great on convexed INFI RMD.
For anything else (not convexed), I just go at it with a stone and then ceramics until they do what I want them to. Haven't seen a steel yet that doesn't work on, including things that are supposed to be really hard to sharpen (CTS204P specifically).
 
Try a few swipes on a steel before you start re-profiling or removing metal. I’ve had quite a few come back from a seemingly very dull edge just using a steel.
 
dogboye said:
What HHMoore said. Strops can be had for a fairly reasonable amount of money, from several places on the internet. I got one with black paste on one side, green on the other. Does great on convexed INFI RMD.
For anything else (not convexed), I just go at it with a stone and then ceramics until they do what I want them to. Haven't seen a steel yet that doesn't work on, including things that are supposed to be really hard to sharpen (CTS204P specifically).
Click to expand...

This.

Most any site that specializes in selling high end knives also sells very low-cost, but good quality strops.

I'd also recommend looking up on youtube videos on sharpening convex edged knives. For how relatively small the high end knife world is, there are a lot of youtubers that detail methods on how to maintain your edge.

If you want it convex and thinner, ApostleP has a several year old video that details how he does it. I don't agree with ANY of his views outside of knives, but the man sharpens fixed and folding knives for a living and people trust him enough to send him very high dollar, sometimes one-off pieces to sharpen. I've followed some of his sharpening videos and had great success. Again, I don't like him personally, nor do I follow his channel. His sharpening videos are incredibly informative and don't come with any of the issues that's made him disliked by many.

If you try to sharpen or thin out the edge yourself, buy a mora(or 3) to practice on first. They're dirt cheap and you can get em in carbon or stainless to practice on a general example of both steel types.
 
I tried hand sharpening mine many times and it just didn't seem to get sharp. I use a 600 grit diamond stone. What I ended up discovering was that the edge was rather obtuse, and my freehand angle wasn't actually touching the very edge. I was however, slowly knocking the shoulders of it down. Once I knew this, I went hard and knocked the shoulders right down until I was sharpening the actual edge. Now it has a much thinner edge profile and it's a slicing machine, and very easy to keep in razor blade condition.
 
I'll swear, for a new Busse anyways, a Spyderco SharpMaker really does well in my experience.
Fine rods, and medium or extra fine if you like.
 
For me it was a few hours on the guided DMT system, I forget what it’s called. I consider it to be a small step up from the Lansky. Like Rob said, once I got the shoulders knocked off it sharpened right up. That RS took a screaming edge.

Edited to add: My guided DMT system was actually a Frankenstein’s Monster of Lansky and DMT system parts.
 
Last edited:
I really wish Jerry would build this one anorexic with a full flat grind or very high saber. I loved everything about mine except that thick convex grind and edge.
 
I agree. I would’ve liked to have gotten in on one of those Rodent Trails converted to a RS blade shape by the custom shop. The RS would have benefited from a flat grind.
 
DJC72 said:
Wet/dry sandpaper on a mouse pad will keep the convex edge. Strop with black and green compound after.
Click to expand...

I’ve had good luck with the method described by DJC72.

Check out virtuovice videos on YouTube . He’s the real deal:
 
+1 for the wet/dry paper & mousepad for the thinning and sharpening of the convex.
Simple & effective.
 
drift draft said:
Try a few swipes on a steel before you start re-profiling or removing metal. I’ve had quite a few come back from a seemingly very dull edge just using a steel.
Click to expand...
Yep. Like I said in the other sharpening thread. A butcher steel works great when just maintaining or bringing back an edge. I save the Wicked Edge for reprofiling and whatnot.
 
Ken Onion edition Worksharp with Blade Grinding Attachment. Very easy to use and will maintain a convex edge. You can adjust the belt angle for a more acute edge to make your knife slicier and you can also take your edges to mirror polish with the included belts. Additional belts are available, but the included are more than adequate and very durable. It's fun to use and easy to learn if you just take your time and read the instruction/watch the video. It's made in America, too!
 
If you try the mousepad with sandpaper, be careful. I tried that once. Once. I pressed too hard and dulled the edge. Seemed rather easy to do. Since then, I personally have avoided that method. It works for everybody else, it seems. Not for me.
 
blackhat said:
Ken Onion edition Worksharp with Blade Grinding Attachment. Very easy to use and will maintain a convex edge. You can adjust the belt angle for a more acute edge to make your knife slicier and you can also take your edges to mirror polish with the included belts. Additional belts are available, but the included are more than adequate and very durable. It's fun to use and easy to learn if you just take your time and read the instruction/watch the video. It's made in America, too!
Click to expand...

I love this set up. I have done free hand work on Busse as large as NMSFNO so far, and as small as 3-4-inch range blades. I tried it out on a user Busse and then just took the plunge. If you are patient enough, you will get the feel for the free hand. Beware the tip, and watch the videos. The guided set up and the grinder attachment work great - I now prefer free hand. Have had great success with Strider S30V as well as 52100 (non-busse). I also have some great success with the V-grind Busse and stones and a water stone to get that money-mirror finish. The free hand convexing is fun and you can take down shoulders free hand as well with Ken Onion grinder attachment. I love that little machine.

C
 
On occasion I also use the Ken Onion with the grinder attachment. It’s great for reprofiling a blade and quite easy to master. I screw everything up all the time and even I get great/consistent results. Leather belts are available for it too. They refine the edge to atom splitting sharpness.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top