- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Messages
- 220
I don't see any threads concerning this. Some of you may have been throwing hawks for years, feel free to chime in here. Others may be thinking about it and have no clue where to begin. This is for you. My friends and I have been throwing for years. Here is a bit of advice gleaned from our experience.
1) everyone has to find their own throwing style... I throw like a base ball pitcher from the stretch position. This may not work for you. Experiment, everyone is different!
2) you need to be the correct distance from the target so that the hawk makes one revolution in the air. Generally its about 6-7 " normal" steps from the target. Once you find YOUR sweet spot you can make a mark in the dirt and return to it every time. Generally I go to the target, walk 6 paces back, make a mark in the dirt and I'm set for the day. Your sweet spot may be a little more or less distance from the target. Again, everyone is different.
3) sometimes we don't throw hawk for months, but because we have mastered numbers 1 and 2 above we can consistently stick our hawks near the center of the target block after a few practice throws.
4) if you are having trouble getting your hawk to stick in the target consistently you may need to cut your handle to a shorter length. But how short? Use this trick as a rule of thumb. Make a fist. Measure your arm from your elbow to the top of your fist and cut to that length. Be careful. You may not need to cut off that much. You can always cut more off if need be, but you can't add on. I was having trouble getting my hawk to stick until I used this trick. One cut and voila!
5) you need a hawk balanced for throwing. One that is too heavy or too light will make it hard to throw well. I have a M&W Black Hawk. My buddy has a H&B Seneca. I can recommend those two. Other brands will work as well. Just get one balanced for throwing.
6) tighten your handle by pounding the handle end on the ground. Don't use a wedge or glue etc. If your hawk hits the target in an awkward position that would otherwise break the handle the only thing that will happen is that the hawk head and handle will separate. If you need another handle removing the old one is easy. BTW your hawk handle will still be tight enough to chop kindling and pound nails.
7) accessories. You need an extra handle or two. They don't last forever, but will probably last for years. After 6 years mine will need to be replaced soon because I'm within 3/4 inch of the end of the handle after dozens of times pounding the handle on the ground to tighten the handle. I have never seen a handle break after a throw, but there is always a first time. You need a file to sharpen the edge. Not super sharp, just sharp enough to make it easy for your hawk to stick. I sharpen once a session and it only takes a few minutes. A leather sheath is nice to have. Mine has a belt loop for carry.
8) targets. What works well is a piece of log about 2 feet in diameter and about 6-8 inches thick. Use spray paint to paint concentric rings and a bulls eye in the center.Sometimes we throw at playing cards. We use a tripod contraption to hold our target block. The bottom of the target block is about 5 feet off the ground.
9) for a challenge go back about 12 or so steps for two revolutions to the target. The more we drink, the farther back we go.
10) knife throwing is similar, only a little harder to make consistent sticks. You need to find a balanced throwing knife. I got mine from Beaver Bill, but again other brands are out there that work well. Also, you may need to move back about a half step from your hawk position.
I love to throw hawks. They are cheap, once you have your initial investment. They are quiet. And they are relatively safe compared to firearms and even bows. Just make sure you wait for your buddy to come back from down range before throwing.
1) everyone has to find their own throwing style... I throw like a base ball pitcher from the stretch position. This may not work for you. Experiment, everyone is different!
2) you need to be the correct distance from the target so that the hawk makes one revolution in the air. Generally its about 6-7 " normal" steps from the target. Once you find YOUR sweet spot you can make a mark in the dirt and return to it every time. Generally I go to the target, walk 6 paces back, make a mark in the dirt and I'm set for the day. Your sweet spot may be a little more or less distance from the target. Again, everyone is different.
3) sometimes we don't throw hawk for months, but because we have mastered numbers 1 and 2 above we can consistently stick our hawks near the center of the target block after a few practice throws.
4) if you are having trouble getting your hawk to stick in the target consistently you may need to cut your handle to a shorter length. But how short? Use this trick as a rule of thumb. Make a fist. Measure your arm from your elbow to the top of your fist and cut to that length. Be careful. You may not need to cut off that much. You can always cut more off if need be, but you can't add on. I was having trouble getting my hawk to stick until I used this trick. One cut and voila!
5) you need a hawk balanced for throwing. One that is too heavy or too light will make it hard to throw well. I have a M&W Black Hawk. My buddy has a H&B Seneca. I can recommend those two. Other brands will work as well. Just get one balanced for throwing.
6) tighten your handle by pounding the handle end on the ground. Don't use a wedge or glue etc. If your hawk hits the target in an awkward position that would otherwise break the handle the only thing that will happen is that the hawk head and handle will separate. If you need another handle removing the old one is easy. BTW your hawk handle will still be tight enough to chop kindling and pound nails.
7) accessories. You need an extra handle or two. They don't last forever, but will probably last for years. After 6 years mine will need to be replaced soon because I'm within 3/4 inch of the end of the handle after dozens of times pounding the handle on the ground to tighten the handle. I have never seen a handle break after a throw, but there is always a first time. You need a file to sharpen the edge. Not super sharp, just sharp enough to make it easy for your hawk to stick. I sharpen once a session and it only takes a few minutes. A leather sheath is nice to have. Mine has a belt loop for carry.
8) targets. What works well is a piece of log about 2 feet in diameter and about 6-8 inches thick. Use spray paint to paint concentric rings and a bulls eye in the center.Sometimes we throw at playing cards. We use a tripod contraption to hold our target block. The bottom of the target block is about 5 feet off the ground.
9) for a challenge go back about 12 or so steps for two revolutions to the target. The more we drink, the farther back we go.
10) knife throwing is similar, only a little harder to make consistent sticks. You need to find a balanced throwing knife. I got mine from Beaver Bill, but again other brands are out there that work well. Also, you may need to move back about a half step from your hawk position.
I love to throw hawks. They are cheap, once you have your initial investment. They are quiet. And they are relatively safe compared to firearms and even bows. Just make sure you wait for your buddy to come back from down range before throwing.
you should always remember hawks can kill or mame
