Tips: Gonna Disassemble ZT 0566

mattpeyton

mattpeyton

Joined
Jan 12, 2014
Messages
162
I want to see how smooth I can make this one. Had no issues de-assisting. I want to remove the rest of the factory grease but I've heard of a retaining ball and other things I can't see. I'm pretty mechanical.. Any tips?
 
If you're worried about loosing parts either work on a glass microwave tray or a white towel. The towel doesn't let parts roll and the microwave tray has sides (I picked my huge square one up from the thrift store so I don't have to steal ours from the kitchen every time I need to work on a knife, keeps the wife from complaining).
 
it's pretty dang simple with the assist out. The "retaining ball" (henceforth the "detent ball") is a small ball bearing pressure fit into the lock bar, since the lock bar is bent inward it pressures this ball into a hole in the blade keeping the blade from falling out of the handles when closed.

One general tip for assembling folders, start tightening the bottom most handle screws first and then work your way up to the pivot, it helps with centering.

Good luck, even if you get stuck we're here to help. :)
 
I must be dead stupid, but I got the G10 side off, all torx off, and then attempted to loosen the steel side. The standoffs rotated around, but loosening them didn't cause the two sides to separate once the G10 was off. . I give the two sides a wee pull, but didn't want to apply TOO much force as I was concerned about warping one or the other. What on earth is holding them together? There is a retaining pin behind the blade but that's not budging either. Tight tolerances? The pivot screw LOOKS like it's got a lip that is holding it on to the G10 side, another reason I didn't want to force it.

As an aside I was able to fill the G10 side torsion bar 'well' with Finish Line Fluoro Lube and give the other side a good squirt through the crack. Even with the blade tension torx REMOVED this knife is NOT AN EASY FLIP. I have yet to complete one flip without some wrist flick. WITH wrist flick, however, it's awesome and makes a nice CHUNK. That's de-assisted. Don't even get my started on assisted.... All my fingers reasonable strength to overcome the detent setting. I don't think the torsion bar is coming back... nice knife, however, for $125 and sharp as H-E-C-K.

One more thing I have noticed. I CAN use the thumb stud to deploy -but when I'm doing it, i'm fighting myself, as my hand rests on the frame lock OR the pocket clip (which rests on the frame lock) causing extra tension on the ball retainer. Took me a while to figure out why the harder I gripped and pushed the less success I had deploying with thumb studs.
 
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With knife blade in open position I remove the three Torx screws and the pivot screw on the G10 side. I use my thumb nail to lift the G10 from the liner. Lift off the torsion bar. The standoffs have lips on them to hold them and the liners in place. It takes some minor effort remove the liner. Once off the liner side washer is exposed. Lift the blade from the pivot screw female end and carefully remove the washer/s...put them back on the same sides as they are different sizes. Lift the blade, pop out the female pivot screw part...washer on the lock bar liner side my stay on the liner so carefully remove it.
Clean all parts, reassemble...I prefer to turn the Torx screws just past the point of contact, as well as the pivot screw then starting with the middle Torx screw tighten to a snug...but not overtightened...fit. Tighten pivot screw then back off until the knife opens quickly with no play in any direction.

I use a dab of thread lock blue to hold all screws in place, especially the pivot screw...more control over it's position using thread lock.

This is a very easy knife to disassemble considering it's an AO...
 
Kai! Thanks man. I spoke to Greg at ZT today too - he expressed that likely mine is a NICE TIGHT DOUBLE ZERO TOLERANCE as it doesn't budge at all. He suggested a gentle 'pry' where the blade ISN'T. At this point, tho, I think I'm just gonna stay pat, as I got it about as good as I think it's gonna get by forcing a healthy dose of lube in there and using blue Loctite to put it back together. Blade is PERFECTLY centered and there is no play at all. I don't know if this one is every gonna be a NO wrist flick model, but that's why we all have deposits on the 062CD <grin>
 
Just a hint for taking apart knives with bearings, springs etc. apart the first time. Do it in a clear plastic bag. Parts stay around.
 
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