Tips on re-grinding Buck 301 Blades

hank_rearden

hank_rearden

Joined
Jun 7, 2002
Messages
3,410
So lots of 301 owners have the same issue as I: The blades are too thick at the edge and the hollow grind makes re-profiling tricky. Well, I want to turn my 301 into a box full of scalpels. I'm no stockman or whittler. More of an EDC guy who likes carrying different blades of different strength and sharpness. So, here are the particulars:

1. I want all three blades thinned out and can be sharpened at a low angle for very fine cutting.
2. No blade smiths in my area. I'm no good with power tools but I do free-hand sharpening for different steels. I reckon I can thin out all three blades on the carborundum, or even a 6-inch file. But first question is: what is the better sequence, break the shoulder near the spine first, or the shoulder right at the edge?
3. Thinning out the part where you have the nail nick is tricky. I think I can do that without removing (too much) metal from the upper part that snags one's nail. But in case I screw up, by how much can the upper part of the nick be removed without making it too shallow?
4. From experience, the spey blade is the hardest to thin out. I once tried to free-hand a Japanese knife (Frost?) spey blade and I ended up with something like a doube-edged blade with a round tip. Tips for this one will be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
hank_rearden said:
I got the HG, the only version I knew existed.
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For the 303, knives from 1997 and earlier have a flat grind. I think that is the case for the 301, also. There is a slight difference between the Camillus flat grind and the Buck flat grind. The flat grind for the Camillus made knives goes all the way to the spine. For the Buck knives it is probably best called a "high flat grind" since it stops just short of the spine.

Bert
 
Lay the blade flat (resting on the two high spots) on a diamond plate then rub it back and forth. You will knock down the shoulder and the high point behind the edge at the same time. Keep an eye on your edge bevel if it starts to get worn away, you’ve gone far enough.

I preferred to go length wise. But you can go across or even in circles if you want.

I’ve done this on several blades and it makes them better to use.

To save the diamond plate I will put sandpaper on it just using the plate as a backer. You can use a piece of glass too.
 
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Its difficult to photograph with the light reflecting off contact points. To show them it makes it look uglier than it is.

It’s frustrating because the areas I ground are actually much smoother than the factory surface. But this is a function modification not a cosmetic one.
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The next logical step is to concentrate on just the upper gring line. Start on the flat, then as you are rubbing roll over until the edge barely touches then roll back. Repeat 10,000 times lol. I’m not sure you’ll ever run out of convex area, but it does get narrowed.
 
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As far as I care to go today. But it shows it’s possible to loose the concave section. If you want to. I still have not touched the edge bevel.
 
eveled said:
Lay the blade flat (resting on the two high spots) on a diamond plate then rub it back and forth. You will knock down the shoulder and the high point behind the edge at the same time. Keep an eye on your edge bevel if it starts to get worn away, you’ve gone far enough.

I preferred to go length wise. But you can go across or even in circles if you want.

I’ve done this on several blades and it makes them better to use.

To save the diamond plate I will put sandpaper on it just using the plate as a backer. You can use a piece of glass too.
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Thank you sir!
 
You are welcome. Please post pictures of yours if you decide to follow suit. 0DD22B5A-8268-4659-AB8A-BBFF2707701F.jpeg

As far as I’m willing to go on this one. Pretty sure you could polish it and you would not even see what is left of the concave section.

Maybe I should send it in for a spa treatment? 🤔
 
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I don’t mind the elbow grease. I actually enjoy seeing the low spots change shapes and begin to get smaller. Its like watching videos of lake Meade going dry.

Go slow and put it down when I get tired. Next time I’m at my bench I’ll take a couple more passes. Thanks again
 
That is nice if it is a user, not needed if it is a collector which I am. I have some beautiful fixed blades that I like the blade shape as they are from the factory. The hollow grind is the factory grind. I don't like the look of the outcome after a reshape. I am sure there are other brands that have a flat grind, if you plan on making it a user it does not need to be a Buck knife. Everything to me seems to be not needed, the time, and the look is only for the person doing it for a reason. It is not to see if it can be done, because , YES it can be reprofiled and scratched to the owners liking.
 
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