In my experience free hand grinding, makers tend to lessen the bevel angle as they move towards the tip. This will in turn make the tip quite thin. If you are using a jig, that could help maintain the angle, but other factors still come into play. For example: does your chef knives have distal taper? If so, then that taper will require that you change the bevel angle as you move towards to the tip to keep the grind lines parallel to the edge. There are ways to be mindful of those issues and grind a stout tip. But that takes practice and playing around with grinding techniques.
The easier answer is to make your profile a bit longer than final shape. Put the bevels in and then grind back the tip to thicker cross sections. This is an easier work around... If I am doing a new design or trying new techniques, I will first profile the blade to be 1/2in longer than final shape and then go from there... If I don't have to grind back the tip, then the customer ends up with an extra 1/2in of blade, which never seems to be an issue.