Tips & Tricks for Drilling handle material for a hidden tang.

Erin Burke

Erin Burke

KnifeMaker...ish
Joined
May 19, 2003
Messages
1,330
Hi guys. I've been playing around with this knifemaking thing for awhile now... and during that time I've build a number of hidden tang knifes. My method for drilling and fitting handle material for a hidden tang works, but it is nowhere as clean and easy as I'd like it to be. My method consists of clamping the handle material in a cross-slide vise on my press and drilling a bunch of holes (adjusting the angle of drill to accommodate for the profile taper of the tang). I then connect the holes by pecking away with the drill press as I dial the cross-slide vise back and forth.
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I find that this can cause a bit of deflection along the length of a long drill bit... which worries me when I can't see exactly what's going on in that hole. I did build a makeshift broach, but find that it's not really good for much. So the question for you experienced hidden-tang makers is:

What is your method? How do you ensure that the holes go straight where you want them? How do you remove the webbing from between the holes?... (I think I remember Nick posting something about a zip bit in the past). How much do you use broaches? Where did you get them? Are there tricks to building a GOOD broach? When fitting your handles, how do you check to determine where the binding is occurring and where to remove material?

Thanks in advance.
Erin
 
Ed Fowler said:
Simple 4 flute mill drills, any size, any length, available through Enco.
Click to expand...

Great idea,Ed but I only see bits with 1 inch cutting and 2 1/2 inch total length. Do they make anything longer?
 
Yes, call them and ask, they usually can find what you want.
I have one about 3 inches long, but only one inch cutting, but you don't have to cut it all at once. The one I use most is 3/16 X 4 inches, only one inch cutting, but you can adjust the depth and work it in stages. if they don't have it try MSC. they work together. Good luck
 
I've actually modified twist drill bits so they act more like a 2-flute end mill- the problem then is that with say a 1/4" bit, when you have 2 or 3 inches of bit sticking out of the chuck to reach the center of the handle block from either end, it will deflect a lot no matter what you do. Usually I combine drilling a row of holes, hogging between with a modded bit, and finishing the hole with my home made handle broach when I can get it in there. My broach is sharpened with a single bevel on the end, so a I can push-scrape with the nose as well as pull-cut with the four teeth I filed into it.

It's always fairly laborious. I'll be interested to see some new tricks if anyone has 'em. As far as positioning the block so the holes are accurate, I draw the tang on the outside of the block, then clamp the block loosely in an un-anchored heavy drill press vise, move the block in the vise next to the extended bit in the chuck to check the alignment in the x-axis, clamp tight, and rely on a good scribe line and some punchmarks on top of the block for accuracy in the y-axis. Hope all that wasn't just alphabet soup, it's tough to explain.
 
I haven't done a hidden tang yet, but as a wood worker I would be inclined to try a plunge router with a simple plywood jig and a solid carbide up-cut spiral router bit. It would be just like cutting a slot mortise for a loose tenon joint in wood working except for repositioning the block of wood to achieve the angled ends of the slot.

Has anyone been using this method with knives?
 
I struggle with this as well. Here is the best video I've seen on doing this. At 9:46 he uses a plunge router spiral cutting bit to remove the webbing between the holes. I ordered a bit like the one he is using a couple of days ago so don't have any words of encouragement yet.

[video=youtube;3jpCY-GH3WM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jpCY-GH3WM[/video]
 
I use the longer drill bits from lowes. Draw out the lines on the end of the bolck and drill 2 holes for the front and rear of tang then use the drill bit to chew up the wood inbetween.

I did find a nice trick that helps alot yesterday while i was doing 4 of them.

When you start chewing the web out, start from the back of the web instead of the front (closest to you). By chewing the web out in reverse, the web acts to hold the bit in alignment so it stays centered while chewing the web. Work your way towards you and then chew out the front last. Some touchups with the drill or a file or broach and you are done
 
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