Titanium Backspacer

B

bunghole

Joined
Jul 6, 2005
Messages
206
Any reason a full length titanium backspacer for the sebenza couldn't be produced? The edge is pretty close to the edge of the scales, so I imagine it would have to be grooved to allow the blade to close. Also, not sure how to deal with the blade stop. The final issue would be attachment. If it only attached at the rear spacer, it wouldn't be secure. Maybe attaching at both the lanyard hole and rear spacer. Anyway, the reason I ask is that a member of another forum who does machine work in titanium has mentioned that he would like to try, but needs a sebbie to fit it up. I trust him as he has good reviews from other members, but I just hate to be without my EDC.

Any thoughts in general about this idea?
 
Let him do it then post pictures.

A good machinist should be able to incorporate the blade stop in the design, then use both structural screws.
:thumbup:
 
if the ends are milled out, it can fit nicely in between the stop pin and lower scale screw.
 
C Ben Susrool said:
Let him do it then post pictures.

A good machinist should be able to incorporate the blade stop in the design, then use both structural screws.
:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Isn't the current stop SS, or is it titanium as well? I'd be a little worried about "re-doing" the intended stop installed by CRK.
 
MORIMOTOM said:
no changes need to be made to the screws or stop pin.
Click to expand...

I'm looking at my large 21 right now, and in the closed position, it doesn't look like you could have any piece of the backspacer under the stop pin as the blade is too close when in the closed position. I don't have a camera to take a pic unfortunately.
 
that's ok, i have one.

its been done. the portion near the stop pin is just very thin.
 
no, i meant i have a sebenza, not a backspacer.

ive thought about having one made, but i like the open design.
 
I do to, but someone here mentioned that they've cut themselves sliding a finger along the back. I looked at it and it wouldn't be too hard to get some flesh against the blade. At least it wouldn't be a deep cut.
 
I thought piter made one several months ago?

edit: early in 2009, rather:

seb_breaker_2a.jpg
 
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That looks cool. My idea was to run all the way from the stop pin to the rear spacer. Just a smooth piece of titanium to blend in with the scales.
 
I got you now. you might want to field this in the knifemakers section, see if one of the guys there can get you sorted. no reason it shouldn't be manageable with some good machining.
 
The backspacers I have made just fit in snug on friction alone. It takes a lot of man hours to do since I dont have the tools. Only a saw and sandpaper. But let me address some issues you have:

I imagine it would have to be grooved to allow the blade to close
Not necessarily. If you thin the spacer out enough it will not contact with the blade. A groove is still an option but not a must.

not sure how to deal with the blade stop.
This is about good design. The backspacers can go across the stop pin and contact against the blade in the open position so that there is no gaps between spacer and blade. That means that the original stop pin stays. No need for modification.

attachment
This can be done in a few manners. I do not like to cut etc on any knife. So the wood and G10 backspacers are made so that they fit in on friction alone. Might seem stupid, but you would be surprised at the amount of force it requires to pop the spacer out. Because I hand finish the spacer (more labor intensive) the tolerances are higher then I could do on the given tools I have.

Attachment can be done on the backspacer. I have a design in the works that will incorporate the blue backspacer and lanyard hole. One complete piece from the stop pin to the end of the handle. I just need to get the materials (want to do glow in the dark).

Given this person has the right tools he should be able to knock a few of these ought with less effort then I can. So go for it.
 
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marthinus said:
The backspacers I have made just fit in snug on friction alone. It takes a lot of man hours to do since I dont have the tools. Only a saw and sandpaper. But let me address some issues you have:

I imagine it would have to be grooved to allow the blade to close
Not necessarily. If you thin the spacer out enough it will not contact with the blade. A groove is still an option but not a must.

not sure how to deal with the blade stop.
This is about good design. The backspacers can go across the stop pin and contact against the blade in the open position so that there is no gaps between spacer and blade. That means that the original stop pin stays. No need for modification.

attachment
This can be done in a few manners. I do not like to cut etc on any knife. So the wood and G10 backspacers are made so that they fit in on friction alone. Might seem stupid, but you would be surprised at the amount of force it requires to pop the spacer out. Because I hand finish the spacer (more labor intensive) the tolerances are higher then I could do on the given tools I have.

Attachment can be done on the backspacer. I have a design in the works that will incorporate the blue backspacer and lanyard hole. One complete piece from the stop pin to the end of the handle. I just need to get the materials (want to do glow in the dark).

Given this person has the right tools he should be able to knock a few of these ought with less effort then I can. So go for it.
Click to expand...

I was going to mention this guy. If you don't mind non-titanium, his backspacers rock. :thumbup:

Pure ti would be cool, but probably a good deal more costly.
 
Ive doen 2 full backspacers in Ti for a Regular and a Classic Seb. Other than having to be pinned or require some swankie machining to help them to stop spinning round the spacer screw they are easily done. The ones I did sat on the top of the pin so the blade clearance was not an issue at all.

:):thumbup:
 
Haze said:
Ive doen 2 full backspacers in Ti for a Regular and a Classic Seb. Other than having to be pinned or require some swankie machining to help them to stop spinning round the spacer screw they are easily done. The ones I did sat on the top of the pin so the blade clearance was not an issue at all.

:):thumbup:
Click to expand...

Do you have any pics of them? I would love to see that.
 
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