Titanium Frame lock bending

Joined
Feb 16, 2014
Messages
28
if lock is super early and i need to bend it for less early lock (so far mine is like 5~7%? still locks good)

do u people bend it by strength? or bending is not good?


and does the titanium handle pieces bent for perpose??(extra room for washers or bearings)

when i put it on flat surface(which is seperated from blade) i can feel and see its not perfectly flat, all the bumpy parts removed still isn't flat

it is same happen to otherside of handle

knife is DDR AXD 5.5

i once press the frame lock (which is sperated position) super hard with my finger for less early lock, placed on two pieces of flat wood

will this cause bending to entire handle? AXD's titanium handle is overly thick but i slightly sensed all the handle was bent

i hope it is flexible
 
Titanium can flex a lot more than steel, the eyeglasses manufactures use them such as silluette that are super flexible. However it also depends on the alloys, most Ti scales have pretty high aluminum to counter the flexibility nature of titanium.
Check the flatness with a straight edge such as a credit card or ruler; set it perpendicular to the scale and see if you are able to see gaps. Some manufacture will slightly bow the frame so when tighten they become straight and creates tension to help hold the screw in its place better. As long as the right and left bend the opposite way and along the same spot you will be fine, if they bed toward the and direction then you will have misalignment.
I play with lock bars when I am in situations like too early lockup or too strong of detent. The trick to to find a reference point on the existing travel. I then clamp it down and only move the lock bar straight up or down depending on what I want to achieve. Ti is not fragile at all, it's very unlikely that you will weaken it unless you bend it back n forth a lot. To increase lock up you will also increase the detent and it may push your blade tip off center when closed if its way too strong. It will also affect the deployment.
One last thing to check is to install the frame back with out the blade and make sure your lock bar is not touching the other side of the scale and it's not sitting pass 100% lock up point.
 
I play with lock bars when I am in situations like too early lockup or too strong of detent. The trick to to find a reference point on the existing travel.
great thoughtful post, thanks!
one of my knives has too early lockup and i feel like manipulating the bar tension as one possible solution, bending the lock (male). not sure if it's such a great idea though.

instead, i am guessing that dremeling off material from the blade spot (female) to extend the lock's travel is really not a good idea?
 
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