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Recommendation? Titanium lock-face texture

J

Joneserlax

Joined
Apr 18, 2014
Messages
25
Hey guys... Well once again the search feature has failed me because I cant find the exact answer to my question. And I feel bad because, in all probability, the content is there. But with the search function as is (even advanced search) it does not return all the keywords I put in. I'm 25 y/o and using google and its features comes naturally to me, but I'm not sure what tricks I can use to get better results on here (Maybe I could use some tips on that too).

Anyways.. my question is in regards to lock-stick, steel and titanium frame/liner-locks, and texture. No, I'm not about to ruin a production folder. I have been trying my hand at a Ti frame-lock and pleasantly it has been going well. However I cant find much info about people specifically addressing the right texture for the lock and blade face.

Im sure everyone has heard about using graphite or sharpie (most as a fix for breaking in production folders) and smoothing out the lock face. But I've also heard that any oil getting in there will cause lock-stick. So.. is smooth and polished not the way to go? Is there a safe area, of grind lines/file lines reducing surface area, being relatively smooth (around 800 -1500 grit) without being polished?

Right now I have the angle at 9 degrees and it feels okay, not much stick, but could be better. Thanks guys
 
Last edited:
To summarize:
Most importantly I am asking about lock bar texture and how successful makers achieve their frame-lock face, esp in terms of being smooth and stick free.


Read if you want:
Okay, to elaborate on my little "search feature" gripe at the beginning..
Despite being a member here for a few years I feel like I dont know where to start, and I visit infrequently despite this being an important passion of mine and Bladeforums being a useful tool. The only thing you get when you make an account is a welcome message in "Conversations" pointing to the FAQ section, but all those are are site rules, terms, and certain specific details.. not really answered questions.

So.. Is there any info on how to navigate and better use bladeforums? Esp since it seems the layout has changed since I last visited
Where are my visitor messages and where are private messages?
And any detailed info on how to better use the advanced search would be very helpful
 
I'm not one of the pros here. Just a hobbiest. So I'm not going to answer your question regarding the texture of your lock bar.
I will tell you this though. The search function here basically sucks. I've actually typed in half of a subject line I'm looking at and sometimes the search won't pick it up. At other times it suffices. The info here is so good that its worth messin with though!
 
I was waiting for a folder maker to comment also, you may be thinking of carbidizing the lock face.

Look up Mike Nguyen on here or on Instagram and send him a message. He's always very helpful and makes amazing folders.
 
I don't do framelocks, but on all my linerlocks, I grind the lock face and tang ramp to 220.
This work well for me, others will likely do it different.
 
I only make liner locks and have for many years. My standards are lock face at blade 11 degrees cut with a 120 grit belt and the leaf cut with a 600 or even 16 at 90 degrees. If you have a belt table that is positioned 90 degrees to a flat platen, you can install the 120 grit belt, place a 1/8" bar 7/8" from the belt with a couple of wraps of masking tape to hold it in position on the table and the correct angle will be established. I can't see this not working for a frame lock.If it seems to be sticky check the edges for burrs. This continues to work for me every time.
Frank
 
I think sticky locks have more to do with the vertical area of the lock interface not being lined up evenly or parallel. Look carefully and see if they are lining up exactly when the lock engages and through lockup.Also check for wear on the blade and lock to show how they are lining up. If they line up nicely sometime a bit of break in time is all that is needed.

Too much lock pressure and surface also come into play, I like to finish to 120 then do a wire wheel finish before I apply carbide. Lock presure has to do with several factors with thickness and how far (and straight or radius) it is bent being key.
 
Late follow up, but I also wanted to ask about cutting direction. Recently I saw a tutorial where he sanded the leaf back to front (where your fingers disengage the liner) instead of side to side, with the direction of movement. Most professional liner-locks I have seen, this isn't the case.. thoughts?

Anyways..
Don does both tang and liner-lock/leaf at 220.
Daniel does 120 and wire wheel. (I agree very much that gemoetry and interface is most important - but that I have found plenty of info about)
Frank does tang at 120 and liner-lock/leaf at.. 600 or even 1600?
 
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