Titanium Military

C

cutter17

Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
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I mentioned that I wanted a Titanium Military in the other thread I started; Former Spyderco non-owner.....etc. etc. etc.

I have looked at several dealers, and just sent an email to the dealer I most often use. It looks like several dealers have the titanium Militaries in stock. I am talking about the non-fluted version, as this is the one I want. Maybe I'll get the fluted version when they are back in stock.

I've also told my dealer I want the version with the steel insert lock. But I have never found out why Spyderco went to this ( obviously a problem with lockup). I did a search but I never found a real concrete answer. What I did find seemed to indicate that some owners had the ti Military and had lockup problems, while others had the same with no lockup problems. If I read correctly, it seems Spyderco implemented the steel insert with the M4 Military?, and then did they begin making the others with the steel insert?

I have NO problem with the steel insert as my SR-1 has it and it works just fine. I would actually prefer hardened steel to titanium for the lock interface as the steel does not wear as fast as the titanium does.

Anyway, is there a way to determine whether the ti Military has the steel insert, without looking of course:D, by the stock number/model number? All help appreciated as this Spyderco non-owner turns into a Spyderco owner!!:thumbup::)
 
I don't know. I bought the fluted one and it does not have the insert. I saw Sal on a video at Blade Show saying it would have it but mine doesn't. I do have the titanium M4 that has the insert. That's the only one I've seen with it.
 
lostzebrastripes said:
BladeHQ has the Reeve Integral Lock (RIL) version instock.

Honestly I'd like to know what the difference is between the RIL and non-RIL version, as I have a non-RIL version on the way.
Click to expand...
If you have a non RIL on the way then it would be a liner lock and it would not have titanium scales.
 
I have NO problem with the steel insert as my SR-1 has it and it works just fine. I would actually prefer hardened steel to titanium for the lock interface as the steel does not wear as fast as the titanium does.
Click to expand...

If the Titanium is not carbidized, it might wear faster, it's hard to say. There are literally hundreds and thousands of Ti frame locks from many makers that are around 20+ years old and they are locking the same way they did when they were made. Open your knife calmly, don't flick it to impress people and it will last a a lifetime. Just like any tool, if you take care of it and don't abuse it things tend to last a lot longer. Then again, if you are just going to sock it away in a box and have it just to own one and not use it, then I guess it would not really matter. As far as a part number, there is no change.

lostzebrastripes said:
...
Honestly I'd like to know what the difference is between the RIL and non-RIL version, as I have a non-RIL version on the way.
Click to expand...

RIL (Reeve Integral Lock) = frame lock
It's named after the person that developed it, Chris Reeve. I'm not sure what exactly you are talking about.
 
I know that the Sebenza lock bar is carbidized and the ones I've had had no lockup problems. Is this, carbidizing, a process that Spyderco is now using on the Military?

No slam openings on my part! Just a soft flick every now and then. I figure I'm impressive enough as is and don't need a knife to show it!!:D;)

But I'm still puzzled about the steel insert. I know I read that the M4 version had the insert. I read another post stating that a person had received a standard titanium model, nonfluted, with the steel insert, and I want to think he referred to it as a 2nd generation titanium Military.

Short and sweet is this; do the titanium Military's ( both versions )now come standard with the steel insert as the lock face?:thumbup::)
 
The model number is the same. Mine has the insert and the box says C36TIP

The fluted models do not have the insert, atleast the first batch didn't.

Your only bet is to call and have the dealer inspect the lockbar before shipping.

TiMillockbar.jpg
 
Thanks for that 5.56, and thanks for the pic as I was thinking the steel insert was like my LionSteel SR-1, but it isn't exactly the same, which is not a problem though.

Do you know what the problem was with the titanium lockbar as to why it wouldn't work? And/or why some seemed to have work correctly while other's didn't.

Older I get the more curious I get!
 
Here you go, I can't link the other forum here, but these are Sal's words.

Sal Glesser said:
We get quite a bit of input from customers that does not come through the forums. We've been working on this for some time and feel that it is an improvement. We'll study the change for a while and decide which knives will get the insert.

sal
Click to expand...

Sal Glesser said:
We've gotten some back with so much flicking as to induce excessive wear. At least it was excessive wear in our opinion.

sal
Click to expand...
 
I found one down in the bayou.:thumbup: I am talking of the original version with a steel insert on the lockbar. I'll either get it at the end of the month, or sooner, depending on how bad the bug bite is!!:eek:;)

This will be my 3rd Spyderco, and first Military EVER. Looking forward to this slicing machine I hear so much about.:thumbup::)

Guess now I'll begin looking for the 4th Spyderco........:D
 
My ti Military will be here in one week, and now I'm thinking I also need a fluted version of the Military!:eek::)

Also have my eye on the Gayle Bradley M4.

I had heard that people get addicted to Spyderco's, of course I laughed it off.................................................maybe that was wrong on my part...:confused:;):)
 
cutter17 said:
I found one down in the bayou.:thumbup: I am talking of the original version with a steel insert on the lockbar. I'll either get it at the end of the month, or sooner, depending on how bad the bug bite is!!:eek:;)

This will be my 3rd Spyderco, and first Military EVER. Looking forward to this slicing machine I hear so much about.:thumbup::)

Guess now I'll begin looking for the 4th Spyderco........:D
Click to expand...

The original version had no steel insert. It was added later as the result of the super flickers.
 
It seems to me that flicking might cause increased wear to the stop pin. I don't see why it would cause increased wear to the lockbar.
I have the titanium Military without the steel insert. I have no problem with it. I don't see how the lockbar could move over all the way in my lifetime. I wonder if the problem has more to do with bladeplay developing because of the contact between the wide lockbar and the tang. I haven't experienced that.
 
Guess I meant v2.0 is the one I have coming. I double checked with the dealer and was told that the only one's they have in stock are the ones with the steel insert. Some folks are simply "Slammers", and slam their knives open. I've seen it done several times, and by younger guy's who loosen the pivot to the point that the knives have bladeplay, but man are they not cool:rolleyes: when they slam open that knife.......I always cringe awaiting the knife to fall apart and pieces to rocket off into space!:D

I try to point out about excessive wear, locking problems, and how being subtle doesn't draw attention, but it doesn't matter to them, no, as long as that blade comes out and sounds like a sledge hammer hitting and sorta locks up:rolleyes: then they are fine with the stares they get. I really avoid going out in public with my next door neighbor as this is his style.

Anyway, just pointing out about the excessive wear causing locking problems. I imagine a combination between the stop pin developing a flat area where the blade hits it, then the ti lockbar being able to slide further to the right, would cause the problem. Also, if the lockbar is "sprung" so that it goes over a certain amount, and you pass that amount, then the bar is not going to be exerting the needed pressure on the blade tang to get tight lockup. To remedy, you would have to bend the lockbar further to the right to get adequate lockup, thus increasing the wear as one continues to practice "Slamming".

As I said earlier, I am impressive enough by myself and do not have to slam open my knife to get the attention I want!!:thumbup:;):) At least that is what I would like to think........
 
AF said:
It seems to me that flicking might cause increased wear to the stop pin. I don't see why it would cause increased wear to the lockbar.
I have the titanium Military without the steel insert. I have no problem with it. I don't see how the lockbar could move over all the way in my lifetime. I wonder if the problem has more to do with bladeplay developing because of the contact between the wide lockbar and the tang. I haven't experienced that.
Click to expand...

When you flick open a frame lock knife, the inertia from the blade slams the stop pin. Whatever energy is left over from the intial shock slams into the lockbar. It creates a slight depression in the Ti interface, deforming the metal. Titanium is tough, but not indestructible, it's truly not "stupid" proof either. Some people purposely slam their folders repeatedly to create intentional deformation of the Ti interface, thinking this will prevent further travel of the lockbar. In the end thi dramatically shortens the life of the lock/knife and creates blade play where non existed.
 
If people use a Ti Frame Lock as a flick toy it will wear out one pretty fast compared to just normal use.
 
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