To do my own filework?

B

Blackwatch

Joined
Dec 19, 2000
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I was interested in putting some filework on a knife I own. I was wondering, is filework really something that should be done before the heat treating? I just don't want to damage the knife at all...

Being a logical human being, I would think this should do no damage to the blade. Especially since it would be more on the lower spine (can't think of the type of filing) to provide grip on the thumb ramp, and a little after the ramp, for better purchase in delicate tasks.

I purchased a small vise, and a set of hobbyist files (small round, triangle and squared files in one little set) to set about this endeavor, but I wanted to see what you guys thoughts were on this.
 
You may find the blade a little hard for filing unless you have diamond files or a very soft blade. After hardening I use my dremel with a carbide or abrasive wheel to cut the filework and clean it up with a diamond bit. Heat is not a problem on the spine.
 
Blackwatch,
As a custom maker I can tell you that most makers put on the filework before heat treat. The steel is softer and it is easier to do. After heat treat the fun is wrapping sand paper around the same file and polishing the file marks and removing scale from heat treat.

You can do filework on a knife after heat treat but it is more difficult. The steel is harder and the files sometimes have a tendancy to skate off of the blade where you are trying to cut, so you push harder and work harder for the same affect. I have been doing some custom filework on production knives for a forums member and they are not the easiest, but take your time and it can be done.
 
I always go back to Bruce Evans posts and his web page for filework info. If memory serves me right he prefers to do it after heat treat if he has edge quenched and before if he HT's the entire blade.
 
I did some simple filework on an old Western hunting knife of mine and it worked fine. It took a little while but came out OK.

I have also used the corner of the wheel on my bench grinder to add some crude filework.
 
hmmm, diamond files..or a dremel? this may be the opportunity i've been looking for to convince me wife that i need a dremel!!!

the steel is D2, so i guess it would be pretty tough...i'll give it a shot, anyway, with what i got.

thanks for the responses, i appreciate the input.
 
It might work, some files are better than others. Adremel would really make life a lto easier for you though. One thing that will help you is if you figure out the general spacing of your pattern before hand and make some index marks.Say every 1/" or 1/4" dependinf on where you want the cuts of the pattern to be. Do that with a corner/edge one of the square or triangle files, they'll start a cut much easier for you than the round or flats. Then you can move on to use the other shapes in the grooves you already have started. It'll cut down on slipping and scratching up the spine so you'll have a lot less clean up work to do.
 
I think I'd like to try with files...I'll probably look for the diamond variety too supplement what I have (the same as the small 3 piece "needle" set w/handle on the kovelknives.com site).

Indeed a dremel would be easier, but I think I want to learn what I am doing before I attack my knives with powertools. :D
 
Rather than spoiling the knife is much more probable that you spoil the files, if the knife blade is too hard...
Trying with a carbide wheel on a dremel could be a good idea, if you are confident with the tool. Since most filework is done in the spine region, you don't risk spoiling heat treatment due to the heat a power tool will produce. Actually, a sligtly softened spine could even lead to a sturdier knife :)
The problem is: if you don't know exactly what to do you can skid the wheel on the blade side leaving an ugly grind mark on an otherwise perfect blade. Not nice. I advice you to practice on some scrap steel piece before you attempt anything on the knife. Learn how the dremel reacts to sharp corners and other tight spots.
Always keep the tool so that the wheel pushes it AWAY from the corner, rather than dragging the tool into it and down the side of the blade. And, anyway, do not insist too much on the same spot without cooling :)
 
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