To hell with cartridge Shaving!

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Oct 5, 2011
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I'm very interested in shaving with a DE safety razor. I'm sooo tired of cartridge and Barbasol saving. I have very think coarse hair (idk if that maters). I need a recommendation on a DE razor, razors, brush and a good soap to start out and practice with!

Thanks!
 
I'm very interested in shaving with a DE safety razor. I'm sooo tired of cartridge and Barbasol saving. I have very think coarse hair (idk if that maters). I need a recommendation on a DE razor, razors, brush and a good soap to start out and practice with!

Thanks!

You can start out/try out wet shaving with very little money up front.

If you aren't squeamish about using vintage razors, you could cruise local antique shops and try to find a twist to open vintage Gillette Superspeed or find one on the bay. The last one I found locally I paid 1.75 for and it is in excellent condition. A little blast of Scrubbing Bubbles, some scrubbing with a toothbrush, and some light polishing and it was good to go.

If you want new, the Edwin Jagger DE89 series is a very forgiving shaver for the newbie and can please even the most experienced wet shaver. I prefer the barley handled model or a lined model as I found the regular chrome one a bit slick to hold when shaving.

Blades? Probably the most "your mileage may vary" part of the process. Order a small blade sample pack and find what works best for you. I finally settled on Feather blades as they offer me a super close shave with no irritation at all.

Soaps and creams? If you have a Bath and Body works close to you, see if they stock CE Bigelow shaving cream in the men's section. It is rebranded Proraso...a nice, menthol and eucalyptis cream that is easy to lather. If you want a soap to try out, Van Der Hagen deluxe can be found at most any store/drug store for less than 2 bucks.

For brushes you can try a boar brush by Van Der Hagen that is also cheap on the wallet. VDH actually makes a starter shave kit for less than ten dollars that has the brush, a soap cake, and a small lather bowl.

I like a pre-shave oil and Shave Secret (also easily found/Walmart) is less than four dollars and will last you a month or more. Wet face, rub four or five drops in your palm and apply prior to lathering.

After the shave is important as well. I like a cooling one this time of year and can recommend Aqua Velva as a cheap way to start or if you have a Dollar General close by, they have a Barbasol Pacific Rush that is less than 2 dollars. Pre and post shave products make a ton of difference.

Big advice for wet shaving? Use no pressure. None. Let the weight of the razor do the work and simply guide it. Start out with the grain passes, more than one, and remember that it is beard reduction.....not instant beard removal. LIke cutting your grass a setting lower at a time to prevent scalping your yard.

Vintage Gillette super speed 2.00
VDH starter kit.....around 8 or 9 bucks.
Shave secret.......less than 4
Barbasol Pacific Rush.......less than 2
Blades.....sample pack is like 15 shipped.
Pinaud Clubman styptic pencil (stops nicks/bleeding) 1.00

Like 30 bucks total. There is a myriad of information on Youtube by a guy that goes by Mantic that will get you started on good technique. Your coarse beard is probably not as bad as most. It's the prep work that does wonders for that....like shaving after a hot shower, using a hot towl to prep your skin, letting your lather soak in, pre shave oil slickening things up....that kind of stuff.

You will be suprised to find that DE shaving doesn't involve the tugging and pulling that cartridge razors are known for. Once you find that blade combination/product combination that works for you, it is very very comfortable.

Regards.
 
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I wish someone would have told me this:

Buy a DE that has some heft and length in the handle
Buy a quality badger hair brush
Buy Mitchell's wool fat
Buy feather razors

The after shaves, witch hazel, skin creme, shave bowls, scuttles, shave stands, blade holders and everything else are more of a hobby or personal preference.

That being said, everyone has a different style and different budget. Much of the shave is your preference, the only constant would be a short learning curve and a cheaper per shave/over time cost.
 
Just get a Merkur Futur. It's a bit expensive, but it will last a life-time. It's adjustable. For every post I see by someone abandoning the Futur, I see fifty posts praising it. I decided on it because I read a post critical of it because it was not a good razor for blade comparisons since everything shaves well in it; if analytical blade comparison is your goal, then that matters, I suppose, but if your goal is a great shave, then that's a feature.

Get a nice badger brush.

Get a cake of soap. I currently recommend DR Harris or Taylor of Old Bond Street.

I recommend getting a blade assortment to try out at first.

Pre- and post-shave products are very specific to your skin type. The universal pre-shave is hot water, either a hot shower, a hot-water washing of the face, or a hot-towel wrap. The universal post-shave is a cold-water rinse. But, I assume you have water so you won't need to order that in.

You will need a bowl of some sort, about 4 1/2 inches in diameter, shallow, about 1.5-2 inches deep, with a fairly flat bottom. If you can't find something in the kitchen to repurpose, then look at the kitchen/tableware aisle at your local K-Mart.

Everything else that you read about, fancy equipment and products and such, is extra which you may or may not want in the future but do not need -- nor do you want the complexity of -- at first.



I have and use day-to-day:

A Merkur Futur Razor
A Merkur Futur-style brush
A metal bowl
A stand that holds the razor, brush, and bowl neatly
A cake of soap (currently Trumpers)
A bottle of ordinary rubbing alcohol
A box of either Bic Chrome Platinum or Feather blades

That and a towel, washcloth, and water is the complete kit for my every-day shave.

For travel, I have a case for the razor, a bottle for the brush, a plastic travel bowl with a screw-on lid, and a small bottle for alcohol. That's it.

I like it fairly minimal. I figure that my entire initial investment (which is really first-class) paid for itself in real cost savings in about nine months. You will literally save about a dollar-per-day by switching from cartridges and cans to DE wet shaving. So, don't worry so much about the upfront costs.
 
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There's all sorts of ways to start out with DE's. Some things I've learned. The razors are really small compared to what you might be used to but much heavier. See the picture at the bottom of the post, that's my superspeed on the left next to a normal Q-tip, it's a typical size for a DE razor. It'll feel a bit odd at first but you get used to it and then wonder why on earth a mach 3 is so damn big. "canned goo" is okay, if you're having trouble lathering a soap or cream, or you get a de razor and don't have the other stuff, they work just fine together. Cheap soaps are good too. VDH Deluxe is the first soap I recommend you get. It's one of the easiest to lather soaps and responds quickly to face or bowl lathering. You can get it at walmart for just over 1.50, and it'll last you for a couple months. I don't recommend Williams, maybe it can be lathered, all I get is thin airy foam, super slick but there's no cushion and something in it burns my face.

So first off, my short answer for a first timer, based off my experience and what I'd want to start with if I knew 4 years ago what I do today. Gilette Superspeed off ebay, VDH deluxe soap(walmart), Wilkinson DE blades (walmart) cheap salsa bowl (walmart), Muhle black fibre synthetic brush(direct from muhle online). Total cost of everything but the brush is under 30 dollars, maybe under 15 if you can nab a sweet deal on that superspeed. The brush is 39-55 dollars, but it's a sweet brush and maybe the last you'll ever need, I don't have one, but I'll be fixing that soon. Alternatively get an Omega boar brush for 11 bucks, I'd skip the VDH brush due to shedding and general quality issues.

The salsa bowl is your lathering bowl, I like mine, it's cheap, the perfect size, and doesn't break my toes or leave shards of ceramic all over the bathroom if it gets dropped. Get the brush nice and wet, then one light pump/shake over the sink to get excess water out. Swirl it on the soap until the soap looks like it's penetrated up to the handle and filled the bristles, then swirl it around in the bowl until to fully build the lather. When you lather, you should end up with something as dense as canned shaving cream, but generally better all around. If it's airy, or dissapears quickly, then it's not right, usually the answer is swirling on the soap more. Only add extra water if the lather is hard and pasty. Once this setup is mastered, you can find a favorite soap, blade, razor combo to stick with. I recommend trying (it'll probably be hard) to use up whatever new product you're trying before buying another one, otherwise you'll end up with a huge collection like some guys, which kinda offsets the money saving aspect of the DE razor.

Now for the long answer.

Razors... well all sorts of options.

I recommend finding an NDC (1948-50, they weren't date coded like all the others) Gillette Superspeed TTO(twist to open). This is same razor I have and I use it daily. It's very mild and you'd have to work pretty hard to cut yourself. I get more nicks with cartridge razors. You can find really nice ones on ebay or badger and blade's FS forums for less than 20 dollars shipped. It's totally safe to use an old razor like this, the seller will probably have done all the cleaning needed before you get it, a quick scrub with some scrubbing bubbles, barkeeper's friend, and a quick dip in alcohol is all that's needed if they didn't. Some people think that DE razor shave quality and comfort are perfectly balanced with this razor and hasn't improved much if at all in the last 60 years.

Most of the merkur stuff is good, though I hear they're having some plating issues recently. For people with coarse beards, the Slant (merkur's slant bar design, models 37c and 39c) gets recommended alot. If it weren't for the weber razor this would be my 2nd razor. As it stands it'll be my 3rd, maybe later this year.

Some people have grip issues with the smooth handled futur if they get some soap on their hands, I've also heard it's a very agressive razor compared to superspeeds and merkur's 3 piece razors even on lower settings. I recommend holding off on a Future as a 2nd razor.

Weber DLC and ARC bulldog razors. These available with DLC and some other kind of Chrome based PVD coating . The head and handles are solid stainless steel, and they've generally gotten rave reviews aside from the "utilitarian" appearance. Made in the USA, 70 bucks, I don't think you can find a better deal, so I'll be getting one as my 2nd razor as soon as they're back in stock.



Feather Popular. Made in japan, can be bought new under 20 dollars, uses more plastic than most razors but the quality is high, and it's another mild shaver/easy to learn with. TTO (twist to open) design.

Soaps: VDH deluxe is right now my favorite, my experience is rather limited though. I've used Mike's natural soaps and really like the scents, cusion, and moisturizing, but my razorglide isn't as good as it is with VDH. I think the potential is there, it just doesn't have the wide lathering tolerance VDH does. Everyone's skin is different which can affect glide, and many others think Mike's is some of the best stuff you can get right now.

Cella is on my short list of "must try soon" soaps, it's an Italian made soap with history, not terribly expensive, sposed to be easy to lather, and has a huge fanbase.

Brushes: I have two, the VDH boar from their deluxe kit, and a Parker Synthetic. The VDH boar sheds, alot, you'll have hairs on your face with most shaves. The parker is an upgrade, I like the way it lathers but the bristles have a bit too much spring to them. The Muhle black fiber I mentioned earlier is much different, and I look forward to getting one soon.

The eternal Boar vs Badger question. After years of reading, it seems you can't just say "badger is better". They are for sure different, and there's more variety with badger brushes. This is a YMMV thing.

Blades: The walmart Wilkinson swords are made in germany, and by most reports just "okay" blades. They'll get you started though, and blades are another one of those YMMV things. Tons of places online offer blade sampler packs.

Astras are super popular and super cheap, 10 bucks/100 blades when they go on sale, sometimes even less. They're made in Russia, and seem to be the "all around" blade of choice in regards to actual performance.

The only US made blades that I know of are personna Lab, Med Prep, and barber blades. The barbers are hard to find, more expensive, and from most reports just not that good. The labs and med preps are pretty much the same blade with different markings and the meds are cleaner. The lab/med blades are well regarded by most.


From left to right, Qtip, Gilette SS, Bic disposable, Sensor XL handle, Mach 3 handle, Fusion Power handle.
sizerazorcomparison.jpg
 
Thanks everyone for the replies I'm learning a lot!

Another vintage Gillette that is good for newbies is the Gillette Tech. The Superspeed is tto (twist to open the doors to drop a blade in) while the Tech is a bit less sophisticated and is a three piece that you take apart for blade placement.

Techs can be found locally and on the bay for peanuts. My son bought me one that was still in the original box from the late 40s, ball end with a Gold tone finish for like 25 bucks shipped. It is about the same size as the above pictured SuperSpeed but is a very mild shaver that gives very smooth results.

So after reading all of this, are you thinking modern or vintage?

I love the vintage stuff. Most of my vintage Gillettes seem bulletproof. If I am not mistaken, the adjustables are made of brass and last for lifetimes with proper care. I know that Merkur and Edwin Jaggers are made of zinc and have had issues with that metal breaking down. I am sure that both companies are good about taking care of their customers if that should happen.

One other thing that I like to do is sanitize my razors with 91 percent alcohol after a shave. I used to get the 70 percent rubbing alcohol but found this 91 percent stuff at Walmart for less than three dollars. During my clean up process, I will hose down the razor of the day with that alcohol and give it a quick wipe with a clean towel. Hopefully, the alcohol is sanitizing the edge of the Feather for the next day's shave.

I see that you are in Florida. Would you be willing to take some of Alabama's heat back home with you? I am about tired of 100+ days. lol

Oh, and if you get your razor soon, let me know your address by PM and I will send you a couple of blades. I have Derby, Astras and Feathers right now. I'd be happy to part with a few of each to let you try them out.
 
Things not to go vintage on: brushes. Also avoid the Wilkinson and Sword ones you might find at wallymart, not worth the trouble. you will end up dropping a bit on the brush, but you'll save so much on everything else, it will be worth it.
watch Mantics videos, he's got some great info. If you run into trouble, ask away, anything can be fixed, you'll be cured of cartriges for good!
 
Just remember to give it an honest try no matter what equipment you decide on. It takes a few shaves to make the move, but it is well worth it in the long run. I used to really hate shaving, but after making the switch a few years ago I actually look forward to it. You'll see a marked improvement in the condition of your face.
 
Noob Guide for DE Razors and Other Things Shaving Related here

We have a good thread started by me that has a ton of info worth browsing through. I am new to DE's as of a few weeks ago, and I have really found my groove thanks to the forumites here like Gollnick and Unki.

I ended up getting a ~$44 Edwin Jagger DE89BA11 Chrome Barley. It was highly recommended by nearly everyone as a good starter/one razor. It isn't going to be as gentle as the old Super Speed's or anything, but it's not very aggressive either. It has gotten a ton of praise as a "if you could have one razor" kind of razor. It's gentle enough for anybody, but aggressive enough to give a good shaver well, uh, good high quality shaves.

Also, skip the VDH Boar Brush from Wally World or where ever. I have an Omega Boar/Badger mix and it's excellent for the $13 I spent. The VDH Boar brush is a dog toy at best. Mine, after maybe 10 shaves, has lost about 25% of it's initial bristle. That's a crap ton. Get a sample pack of blades also. Or, brush wise, get a Semogue Boar brush, they are all fairly cheap, with the better ones being maybe $20. A good brush is essential to getting a good lather, almost more than the soap itself. Lather will make or break your shaving. If your lather is too watery, and has no density, it will not keep your razor off your skin and you will get razor burn (learned by experience, not by reading).

Spend the money to get a good start up kit, I spent about $100 on everything and I have enough soap and blades to last through the year I believe. I also use Shave Secret and a hot towel for my pre shave and Aqua Velva for my aftershave after a cold rinsing.

Plus, and this is the big thing, maybe the biggest of them all. Take your time and develop a routine. Use the same blade/soap/brush/razor/pre and after shave combo for maybe the first 15 shaves to get in the groove. Only switch if something is definitely wrong and you know it's not your technique. Take your time! I started with my shaves being about 1.5 hours (!). It pays, I had only three shaves before I figured out Derby blades did not like me. I now use Personna Red's. How did I know it wasn't my technique? Well, my third shave with the Derby's gave me the usual razor burn to the point of contemplating suicide when I splashed Aqua Velva on my face. I switched to the Personna Red's for my fourth ever DE shave and had maybe a small nickel sized part on my neck with razor burn. Nothing else had changed.


But seriously, take it slowly at first, and don't expect to be a champ on your first or second shave. Buy quality gear (read: not expensive, but good, which can be cheap) and product, and oh yeah, take your time! Also, a block of Alum is good stuff and lasts a very long time. It helps heal your skin from razor burn and nicks and cuts. It's cheap and is a good purchase. It also helped clear up some bumps on my neck.

ETA: Also, if that's a picture of you in your avatar, stick with cartridge shaving as it appears to be working well, you look a smooth and a baby's bottom :D
 
My suggestion is what everyone else said, plus these very important, simple points:

1. Buy the best quality you can afford upfront.
Don't cheap out expecting to "upgrade" later. Spend at least $50 on an English Badger brush (I like Vulfix). Spending $70-$100 is not unreasonable.

2. Don't buy a ton of different creams, soaps, blades, after shaves, and razors.
Why? Because even if you religiously follow all the advice here and on other forums and studiously watch the YouTube videos, I guarantee that you *will* still get frustrated in the first weeks and months of wet shaving. And you might blame the products and keep trying different combinations trying to solve the problem. This is the most common mistake that new wet shavers make, and it sets them back months. Whereas it is 99% likely that the problem is poor technique. In order to isolate technique and perfect it, you have to eliminate other variables. Buy 1 good razor, 1 good blade, 1 good cream/soap. And STICK WITH THEM for a month, at least.

3. Bleeding or irritated? STOP
Save your face. You might find yourself trying a 3-pass shave and really feeling the burn after the first WTG (with the grain) pass. You might feel frustrated and keep pushing on with the shave, just tearing your face up more. Don't. Just stop if you feel the irritation. Read the tutorials and advice again. Meditate and visualize your technique. Try again the next day. Heck, take two days to let your face heal if you've really hacked it up.

4. Technique, technique, technique
That's the key to a baby's backside shave. It takes time and experience to develop the right technique. There are three areas of the wet shave experience: 1) beard prep, 2) the lathering, 3) the shaving. All three require technique. You are going to prep your beard insufficiently in the beginning, I guarantee that. You are going to build some really sh*tty lather in the beginning, I guarantee that. You are going to use too much pressure at the wrong angles and scrape your face up in the beginning, I guarantee that. But you will get better if you meditate, read and watch instructional materials voraciously, and practice... getting to know your face and beard like you've never known them before. It's not about the products (although you should use the highest-quality you can afford), it's TECHNIQUE.

For your reference, my current setup:

Razor: Merkur Futur
Blade: Astra Super (green=Russian)
Brush: Vulfix 2234
Soap/Cream: TOBS (Taylor of Old Bond Street) Avocado, TOBS Lavender
Bowl: Dirty Bird 1.5 Scuttle
Post shave: Thayer's Original Witch Hazel (contains alcohol), Nivea Post Shave Balm (sensitive)
 
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