To keep a Convex or not?

Steel130

Steel130

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Sep 17, 2010
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I am getting a knife that has a Convex edge and I am slightly worried I wont be able to sharpen it. Mainly because I cant freehand sharpen at all I use the Sharpmaker. So should I keep the convex edge or have it sent to someone to put a 20 degree grind on it? I hope this is in the right section also.
 
It is not necessary to get rid of the knife or regrind it- convex is a very good edge. IMO sharpening convex is as easy as a sharpmaker and inexpensive if you can get some sandpaper and a soft surface (mousepad, leather). Go to knivesshipfree.com or Youtube and watch the tutorials on convex sharpening. The biggest thing to remember is to apply very light pressure, like only the weight of the knife, when sharpening. Or, save your money from a regrind and buy a Worksharp sharpener for convex edges. You'll soon be converting all your knives.
 
Why buy a knife designed with a convex edge only to remove it?

Why don't you use the blade as-is for a while before doing any modification to it?

You are sweating the small stuff too much. Use that knife, then get some high grit emory paper and just sharpen the convex blade. The motion needed is as difficult to learn as moving a paintbrush back and forth.
 
I get rid of convex edges, just because I like using an Edge Pro. But there is no right or wrong answer as to whether to keep your convex edge. Whatever floats your boat is the right answer. Maybe use it as it, and when the time comes for a re-sharpen, figure it out then.
 
Just grind it flat with the Sharpmaker. If you really like convex, you can always use the settings to grind a 30 inclusive bevel with a 40 inclusive back bevel, which will be kind of like a convex edge.
 
Convex edges are a breeze to maintain. Simple stropping technique (edge-trailing), but done with coarser grit (how coarse/fine depends on how much refinement the edge needs to begin with). Wet/dry sandpaper from 3M or Norton (aluminum oxide and/or silicon carbide), on a backing of leather or similar soft(ish) material attached to a hard, flat backing (such as wood), are all the materials you need. For light touch-ups, start with something like 1000/2000 grit. If the edge is a little too dull for that to be effective, you might start at 400/600. If you want to completely re-do the bevel, a more aggressive grit like 220 would be a good starting point. The great thing about the sandpaper is, it's available in many grit stages (at least 220/320/400/600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000, and more if you really want a very high polish). Choose what works best for you.

Keep the sharpening angle as low as possible, and the pressure light. This will help to ensure against rounding the edge.
 
Like has already been said, convex is pretty easy to learn to maintain, and well worth learning how to do. That said, I've had pretty good results with a convex blade with a V microbevel, especially when its ground thin
 
+1 for keeping the convex edge. I think the convex is the easier edge to maintain. You can even strop on your jeans if you are in a tight spot and need a bit more of an edge.
 
I use my Sharpmaker on convex blades and it works fine. There is no complicated re-grinding necessary.
 
Tsujigiri said:
Just grind it flat with the Sharpmaker. If you really like convex, you can always use the settings to grind a 30 inclusive bevel with a 40 inclusive back bevel, which will be kind of like a convex edge.
Click to expand...

Troublemaker! You just gave away my favorite grind. :mad:;)
 
I've convexed my edges on a belt sander and maintained them on a Sharpmaker for 10 or 11 years now. The Sharpmaker will work fine on a convex edge. You can learn how to maintain the convex edge w/ sandpaper and leather or mousepad if you like, but it's not required.
 
I was looking at a Bark river Fox River, but am also a little concerned about the convex edge. I was thingking about going with something out of the Blind Horse lineup instead. Should I be worried. How is sharpening a convex in the field?
 
i'm constantly amazed at the perception people have that convex edges are somehow difficult to sharpen.

sharpen a piece of flat barstock freehand on a stone and you'll wind up with a ocnvex edge. it's simply the profile that forms naturally when freehand sharpening.

if you're really concerned, put a microbevel on it.
 
Keep the convex edge (check the link in my sig), or just proceed to sharpen it with any other gadget like a Sharpmaker. Don't be intimidated by it - once you play around with it, convex edges are much easier than you'd think.
 
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