To Sticthawl - Thank you: A Strop making pictorial

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Oct 6, 2014
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I know people here share their knowledge and experience freely. we give our advice and we don't often know what the person did with it. I wanted to let Stichawl know that I took his instructions and followed it in making some leather strops.

I started out with 7/9 oz vegetable tanned horse butt leather.


Here is the piece I've cut out and wetted in warm water for about 20 seconds after an hour and getting ready to "bone" it with a marble rolling pin and a flat marble tile while watching tv. I was catching up on episodes of Person of Interest and Dancing With The Stars.


After boning it for an hour and 15 minutes and letting it dry flat between some marble tiles over night, here are the two pieces ready to be glued to a couple of 3" x 10" x 1" basswood pieces.


Glued together and clamped down for the one hour set and 16 hour cure.


Trimming the excess leather.


And the finished products waiting for the leather shoe cream. I'm not sure if this is the right shoe cream since it also says polish but it's the only I can find. I've put some on a piece of leather I trimmed away to see the difference tomorrow.


I also have a couple of blocks that I'll sand down finer than what they are now down to 7000 grit sandpaper. One I'll keep bare and the other I'll spray with some .25 micron polycrystalline diamond. Since I've been convinced that diamond spray will just be wasted on the leather and works better on a harder surface.


Did I save money? Certainly not. Did I get better quality equipment that will make a difference? It remains to be seen. But I did like the going through the experience. And, for that, I thank the willingness of people here to share their knowledge and, especially, Stitchawl for his knowledge in leather strops.
 
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Say each of the blocks was $3.56 but I spent $28.50 getting two sets of 4 pieces. The Horsebutt leather was $24.50 plus $16 shipping for a total of $40.50. Let's say it was about 2.5 square feet of which I used .25 square feet for each block, so the leather for each block was $4.05. Maybe $5 for the glue and brush but I only used half of the tube for both so that's $$1.25 each for glueing supplies.

You're right. On a per strop basis, i spend $8.86 each versus $35 that I paid for a 12" x 3" x 1" paddle strop I bought. But for the total project I spent $74 was how I was looking at it. On the other hand, if I wanted to, I could probably get at least 4 more strops out of the leather. And I was able to make strops fit to my custom length of 10" (that's the depth of the tool box drawer I keep the strops in).

Thanks for making me go through the math.

And thanks for the compliment.
 
I have some of that Meltonian Boot & Shoe Cream Polish; it's also the only 'shoe cream' product I could find. I've noticed this shoe cream has a significant amout of wax in it, hence the 'polish' as it's described; it leaves a waxy sheen when it dries. If you're going to use it on a compounded strop, make sure the stropping compound goes ON TOP of the shoe cream-treated leather. If you ever re-treat the strop with the shoe cream, be sure to re-apply compound over it afterward. I tested a green (chromium oxide) strop of mine with the shoe cream polish, and the wax will completely cover up the compound, rendering it ineffective. I checked this by rubbing the edge of a darkly-oxided penny on the green strop after I'd applied the shoe cream, and the strop failed to polish the edge of the penny, but did leave a lot of waxy residue on it. After re-applying my (dry powder) chromium oxide compound, it did a better job removing oxide from the edge of the penny. I still have some reservations about this brand of 'shoe cream', due to the wax in it. It might still diminish the effectiveness of the strop at times, if it mixes with or gets in the way of the compound at all.

If using a bare strop with no compound, I'd personally avoid using this particular shoe cream, again due to the wax it leaves on the surface. Just something to consider...


David
 
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Nice strops. No need for cream/polish.

Leather is a fantastic carrier for diamond spray. One application lasts me nearly a year.
 
Thanks for chiming in David. That's what I noticed with the scrap piece of leather. It was smoother and slick, sort of opposite what you want a strop to do. I'm going to leave both of the leather strops bare for now.

I have some of that Meltonian Boot & Shoe Cream Polish; it's also the only 'shoe cream' product I could find. I've noticed this shoe cream has a significant amout of wax in it, hence the 'polish' as it's described; it leaves a waxy sheen when it dries.

If using a bare strop with no compound, I'd personally avoid using this particular shoe cream, again due to the wax it leaves on the surface. Just something to consider...


David

Nice strops. No need for cream/polish.

Leather is a fantastic carrier for diamond spray. One application lasts me nearly a year.
 
Hi Rey, and thanks for the kind words. Your pics are great! It really does show the process clearly.
Yes, I too would shy away from this shoe product. You don't want waxes that will sit on the surface, but oils that will penetrate the leather. Perhaps some lanolin-based hand cream that doesn't contain petroleum products?
But your strops look great, and will survive without any leather creams for a few years of use. It's not that critical at this stage.
 
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