to stock remove or forge

K

kenvia

Joined
Nov 13, 2005
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Might start something here but what are the advantages to forge compared to stock removal? Asking because I have made a handful of stock removal knives and was thinking about looking into the forging side (I think the Fire may be luring me in) Just thought I could get some feedback from some of you steel mashers. Also I'f anyone lives near Hampton VA that forges that could maybe let me take a look at forging first hand if I would not be in the way or imposing.
 
Well heck, everyone knows forging is better plus it keep you warmer than grinding a blade in the winter months. Stock removal limits you to just using flat bar stock. Being able to forge opens up alot of other options.
 
Forging also works as therapy and a gym too. Take out your anger on the steel, and get a stronger arm while you're at it. Ofcourse, most wellknown bladesmiths have a KMG as well... it's really up too you.
 
As Peter and Ray said, there are definite advantages to forging. You are not nearly as limited in the stock you can use, although it's not a problem getting stock to stock remove. You get good exercise, at least on one arm.:D For the colder climates, the forge is a definite advantage in winter. We could easily get into a discussion about whether a forged blade is superior, but that has been beat to death, already. One thing is for sure, though: practically all makers who forge also stock remove, to some extent. Not everyone who stock removes can forge, though. Forging just does away with some limitations inherent in strictly stock removal making. Besides, it's fun as can be, and you can make all kinds of other things besides knives with a fire, hammer, anvil, and steel.:) :) :)

Todd
 
Good points you've got me intigued now what would I need to get started to give it a try without sinking a lot of money in it?
 
kenvia said:
Good points you've got me intigued now what would I need to get started to give it a try without sinking a lot of money in it?
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I see a cheap forge has been mentioned so i'll bring up other tools.

Anvil - something heavy able to withstand heat and hammer: flat true face a plus. a long time ago there was a thing called a stake anvil; a modern substitute would be a splitting wedge driven part way into a large stump IF you have some way of preventing the wedge from continuing into the stump as you forge (think welding something to the side. Some people use railroad rail pieces. A loooong time ago, evidence shows large rocks were used. (watch your toes when pieces fall from the anvil)

Hammer - something in the 1-2 lbs range. a ball pein, cross pein, straight pein or diagonal pein is more useful than a double faced. If you like forging you'll always have another hammer you want.

Tongs - the steel gets hot you want something to hold it with. Pliers will work in a pinch but a pair can be bought for $20 US or less and they can be made.

"The new edge of the anvil" and "A blacksmithing primer" are good resources for general beginning blacksmithing and "The complete bladesmith" is good for knives in particular. Don't have them in front of me so don't have authors names.
 
Forging is theraputic. If you forge you will do a lot of the work of shaping the blade, under the hammer and a lot less time sitting at the grinder. Working with a power hammer is just plain fun. I can't explain it any other way. Forging damascus is the ultimate fire and steel experience.
Go try it and see if you don't like it. :thumbup: Fred
 
Most fo the steels used in forging are a heck of a lot cheaper, a lot of times free. Always a plus for the smith.
 
My two favorite anvils for final shaping of knives are a 6 pound anvil and a RR rail laid on its side for finish work. Knives are small and delicate when hot. Compared to a wagon wheel anyway. So a small anvil has always made more sense to me. My big anvil is just for drawing and widening larger billets or bulk steel.

No matter which way you go stock removal will eventually will be required (Or maybe not) either draw filing, a grinding wheel or a belt grinder.

A modified one brick Goddard forge is still my best friend.

It all adds up to the final results with hundreds of ways to get there.

I wish you many successes.

Jim
 
Stock removal or forging?
Crotch rockets or Harleys?
They both do the same thing but a little differently.
Do what makes you happy, that's what matters in the end.
Craig
 
Besides, it's darned hard to make pattern welded steel by just stock removal. I just haven't been able to get anything hot enough on the grinder to weld. The eye of an axe or hatchet is a pretty fair challenge too!

ok, so I'm feeling a little sarcastic this morning. And it's very cold outside so I think I'll go start up the grinder...oops, I mean forge.

I will say this though, I don't have to feed my grinder or files charcoal and it's getting tough to make with all my wood covered by snow and ice.
 
Mark Williams said:
Come on now guys, there has to be someone near Hampton Va that knows a little about forging :D
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Well there is that Arbuckle fella but you have to watch the company he keeps. :D

Craig
 
Thanks guys Think i'm going to give it a try. Great link to the wash tub forge. I could put one of those to gether no problem but do you think it would work with coal? Seems it would be easier to get some coal then some charcoal because the stuff you use in barbeque grills wouldn't work right. plus being able to use scrap steel would be great hard to find some laying around that is flat and ready to go for grinding. Thanks again for your help.

Ken
 
C L Wilkins said:
Well there is that Arbuckle fella but you have to watch the company he keeps. :D

Craig
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Chris

The last I heard of you was when you were running from Katrina. Good to see you made it.

Jim
 
hell,anybody knows forgers are smarter than stock removal guys...and i'm a stock removal guy......just want to be one of the boys.
 
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