To thumb ramp or not?

coolbreezy37

coolbreezy37

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Aug 28, 2021
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I was thinking of removing the thumb ramp on my 9ner but I am not sure how to go about. I’ve done a fair bit of tedious metal work on several parts and areas of my 1911 (removal, fitting and polishing, actually came out well done) with a dremel. The last I want to do is destroy the heat treat. How did you guys remove the thumb ramp and is it worth it? Thanks, Damien.
 
I did it with a belt sander and a bucket of water -- dunk frequently.
if you hold the blade in a pinch grip right under the area you're grinding, you'll feel it get warm - when it's too hot to hold, it's time to dunk.
if you burn your fingertips, you waited too long. ;)
 
I have one of the knives he removed the ramp from. I use the same method to reprofiled axes . Keep my fingers on the metal and cool when my fingers get warm
 
Use something more aggressive than a dremel.
You'll burn yourself before hurting the hardness *at the edge*. There's so much steel up there at the spine that it sucks heat out quickly, and the thinner parts will act as a heat sink. If you keep the edge under 450F you're fine. Can't imagine you'd get that much heat into the blade unless you're REALLY creative.
 
Jonny1280 said:
I’ve done it with a hand file.
Hopefully you’ll be left with a little wayne. :)
That’s the small piece of jimping remaining.
Click to expand...
2022 Quote of the week: I took my wayne all the way off.....
 
I was dead set on removing the ramp with my 9 and 10 but the more I have used it the more I have just come to appreciate the design. Just like it now. So I don’t think it would be worth it to me anymore. Cleaner look without them though.
 
I knocked mine off my 9 and 7 with a delta bench sander. Nice and straight. Plus a 90 degree spine to throw sparks. And I choiled it and my 7
 
I just say NO to thumb ramps in general. For me, they are an impediment to getting work done. Removal with any number of tools (grinder with flap-disk, belt-grinder, Dremel, what-ever ... just make it go away).

I would not worry too much about heat treat on the spine just forward of the handle, but no reason you can not simply monitor during the process. Take a little time to grind, check heat build, proceed ... or place an ice cube in the vicinity of the grinding as a heat sink and increase the speed of the project via conductive cooling.

My BK-9 post ramp removal.
IMG_20220131_160258~2-720Wide.jpg

A few of my others, that are within arms length ATM, illustrate how out of place a T.R. would be among the herd ... LOL
IMG_20220131_160821~4-720Wide.jpg
 
Spey said:
I just say NO to thumb ramps in general. For me, they are an impediment to getting work done. Removal with any number of tools (grinder with flap-disk, belt-grinder, Dremel, what-ever ... just make it go away).

I would not worry too much about heat treat on the spine just forward of the handle, but no reason you can not simply monitor during the process. Take a little time to grind, check heat build, proceed ... or place an ice cube in the vicinity of the grinding as a heat sink and increase the speed of the project via conductive cooling.

My BK-9 post ramp removal.
View attachment 1733203

A few of my others, that are within arms length ATM, illustrate how out of place a T.R. would be among the herd ... LOL
View attachment 1733204
Click to expand...
Your 9er is Awesome
 
The thumb ramp kept me from getting a BK 7, I'd like to see a 10" or 9.5" BK 2 version myself.
 
Spey said:
I just say NO to thumb ramps in general. For me, they are an impediment to getting work done. Removal with any number of tools (grinder with flap-disk, belt-grinder, Dremel, what-ever ... just make it go away).

I would not worry too much about heat treat on the spine just forward of the handle, but no reason you can not simply monitor during the process. Take a little time to grind, check heat build, proceed ... or place an ice cube in the vicinity of the grinding as a heat sink and increase the speed of the project via conductive cooling.

My BK-9 post ramp removal.
View attachment 1733203

A few of my others, that are within arms length ATM, illustrate how out of place a T.R. would be among the herd ... LOL
View attachment 1733204
Click to expand...
I see some interesting markings on your 9 in the second picture...
Looks like you marked it up to modify the 9 into a WSK/tracker style knife?
Is that what the marks are for? Did you proceed?
How did it turn out?Any pictures of this?
 
knoefz said:
I see some interesting markings on your 9 in the second picture...
Looks like you marked it up to modify the 9 into a WSK/tracker style knife?
Is that what the marks are for? Did you proceed?
How did it turn out?Any pictures of this?
Click to expand...
Observant you are ... ;-)

Some similarity visually I guess, but functionally would be quite different.
Line from ricasso forward parallel to edge is where my math puts the edge for a Scandi regrind based on DPS geometry of my interest, backside marked for clip-point spine )not seen in that pic), numbers are dimensions related. Need just a little more field use on this 9 before hitting grinder.

Also, have a Extrema Ratio Dobermann IV (just below the 9 in that group pic) that I am working up some similar changes too. Dobermann will see the grinder first though, as it is for an associate so higher priority (sometime this weekend so can do some testing next week).

Link below.
My previous Camp-10 and Outcast projects that may give some idea as to end use performance type goals I am interested in achieving. 4-5 vids on these reprofiles over a month or so of testing & adjusting geometries (find in SharpShit playlist on my channel)

 
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Spey Spey ah, much different than I thought the modification was going to be.
Impressive precission reprofiling and sharpening, very interesting to see the different geometry and bevel angles on these knives.
Thanks for the video.
 
I dont seek out thumb ramps, I dont take them off either.
They don't get in my way at all.
 
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