As a scraper or draw knife, it weighs 5 times as much and does half the work. as a KNIFE, it weighs 8 times as much and does 1/10 the work. As a chopper, it's not a bad replacement for a cleaver.
The decorations on the spine on the one I used were useless.
There, all the pissing done. Now, there's a lot- a
lot of potential in the basic design.
I have a friend who has been to something like 8 months of hours of dirt time with tom, and does have his own version of a tracker. His version keeps the chisel grind near the hilt, and has a full convex grind for the 'blade' portion. the back is flat and straight, no saw teeth, and the thumb ramp is fileworked. It's made of 3/16 5160 stock, and it really looks and works well in the sierras. He also put some holes up near the spine in various sizes for straightening and "drawing" arrows.
If I was going to make one, as a beginner, I'd make 3-
First, make the basic overall shape, simple and with one grind all the way through. convex or flat grind, and work out a good differential hardness either with Fowler style multiple edge quenching or a differential tempering process. Try this one without the index finger cutouts.
Make a second in a similar fashion, but go ahead if you think the first one didn't work well as a draw knife (betcha it does fine!) and do the variable edges grind. Try out your index finger cutouts, and find (probably) that you like the smooth handle better. Here's a decent spot to try out your saw teeth if you want, just remember that your tempering is going to get all wonky and your blade may end up more brittle. but anything over 1/8 inch is going to start killing your efficiency as a saw.
Third one, dial in your first two efforts and make something twice as usable and half the weight of the current TB tracker
One of the things that people forget is that Tom Brown teaches what ends up being a highly individual path. I don't think he'll ever admit it, but the preliminary tracker design is a jumping off place for the individual tracker to start from.