tomahawk forging tools

ScottRoush

ScottRoush

Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
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Just built my forge today and I have a whole box of hc railroad spikes to play with. For tomahawks, I keep reading to get a good splitting punch for making the slot ready for the drift... but I can't find anything like that. At Blacksmith Depot they have drifts and what they call a hot slitting chisel. Is that the same thing? But it doesn't look at all like what they are using on iForge.

Anyway... I suppose I could drill or mill a slit... but my goal is to learn more traditional techniques.... and eventually the folded/welded methods...

Thanks!
 
a slit punch is what is used to start the hole. then the drift is used to form the eye to the correct shape. look at steves channel on youtube at coalcreekforge. he has videos on all of this. you can buy a drift but a slit punch is too easy to make to bother buying one.
 
thanks... I sure don't mind making one. I just need to see a pic. Will check out Coal Creek...
 
We make our slitters about 1 1/4" wide and about 1/4" thick. I also use a drift/mandrel about the same size to true up the slit and to forge down the cheeks with. Then we drift it. Our current slitter is made from 4140. Id prefer 5160,9260,S5 ect or best of all H13 but havent got around to ordering any. Here is our design, well not really ours. Brian Brazil and Uri Hofi really promote this style of slitter/chisel and it works much better than straight flat chisels.
Picture295-1.jpg

this is our drifting post. We have different dies/plates for it. Plates for drifting railroad spike hawks, hammers etc..
Picture263.jpg
 
Thanks a lot.... This is great help. So no real edge on that tool... just the pointed end? I'm assuming it's used as a top tool... Is 1/4" on top sufficient for hammering on or am I misunderstanding? Do you need to upset the top of it to give something to hammer on?

And forgive me if I'm being dense.... but when you say you use a drift/mandrel to true it up and forge down the cheeks with? Are you talking about another 1/4" x 1 1/4" piece of steel? And how is it used on the cheeks?

I have some 5160 in the shop... so I'm gonna make something like this today.

Looks like I also need to put together a drifting post. Will get some pipe for that...

I really appreciate the help! I've been reading a lot, but it takes a lot to sort it all out!
 
you certainly could upset the top but i dont think its absolutely necessary. mine isnt and it works just fine. if you watch steves videos he will show you what the drift looks like. a drifting post isnt a must have if you have a vise but man i bet it makes it a lot easier. its definitely on my to-do list. thanks for the pic of your punch kentucky. looks like it would work a ton better than my straight edged one. im going to give that a try.
 
Well thanks a lot guys... this will get me started. I ordered the drift and will make my punch from some 5160 I have. Man I'm excited.... I've been wanting to make my own hatchets for a long time....
 
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