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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Tomahawk Trainers
- Thread starter TwoRavens
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2000
- Messages
- 735
http://keith.martialartsman.com/trainers/trainersMain.html
this is too light, I think, but maybe combining it with his rifle trainer Idea. Cut a head out of say, pine, drill a handle size hole in it, and pad the hell out of it. Ugly, but might be effective.
Maybe if you took an old cane, cut off the top 18-20 inches, and let the crook give you the balance of the head. You could then cover the whole top in foam and carve it to the shape you want.
If you don't mind spending money:
http://www.woodenswords.com/hand_axe.htm
the handle is of course, long, but the weight sounds right and the handle could be cut.
If you were thinking more of a blunt metal weapon, and if you are I hope it's for solo training, buy one of the cheap pakastani reproductions and grind the edge off it.
Good luck, and tell me what you end up with!
this is too light, I think, but maybe combining it with his rifle trainer Idea. Cut a head out of say, pine, drill a handle size hole in it, and pad the hell out of it. Ugly, but might be effective.
Maybe if you took an old cane, cut off the top 18-20 inches, and let the crook give you the balance of the head. You could then cover the whole top in foam and carve it to the shape you want.
If you don't mind spending money:
http://www.woodenswords.com/hand_axe.htm
the handle is of course, long, but the weight sounds right and the handle could be cut.
If you were thinking more of a blunt metal weapon, and if you are I hope it's for solo training, buy one of the cheap pakastani reproductions and grind the edge off it.
Good luck, and tell me what you end up with!
- Joined
- Aug 27, 1999
- Messages
- 4,531
I have already done this years ago. A very serviceable trainer can be made from the following materials: Duct tape, strapping tape, black electrical tape, an old leather belt, and pieces of foam of the type used by shops that install padded vinyl tops on automobiles.
Get some of the foam and cut a pattern. Layer 4-5 layers of the foam on top of each other and tape together.
Use the strapping tape to spiral wind, slightly overlapping, your foam.
Having accomplished that, tape leather reinforcing completely around the handle lengthways, that is up one side-around the bottom of the handle and up the other side, all the way to the top.
Add other leather reinforcing strips along the striking surfaces and one piece along both sides of the head.
Spiral wind another layer of strapping tape around the entire axe at an angle to the first layer.
The axe should be stiff, but it needs a little give also, they will give you black and blue bruises as is.
Use the duct tape to cover the entire axe and then use black electrical tape to mark the striking surfaces.
I used some thin rough leather to wrap the gripping surface of the handles, but this is not necessary.
All of this will give you a trainer with the same weight and balance as the real thing. You can made training knives that work very well and are very durable in the same manner.
The ones that I made lasted several years of very heavy use in very rough and tumble training.
If I can be of any further assistance, feel free to contact me.
Get some of the foam and cut a pattern. Layer 4-5 layers of the foam on top of each other and tape together.
Use the strapping tape to spiral wind, slightly overlapping, your foam.
Having accomplished that, tape leather reinforcing completely around the handle lengthways, that is up one side-around the bottom of the handle and up the other side, all the way to the top.
Add other leather reinforcing strips along the striking surfaces and one piece along both sides of the head.
Spiral wind another layer of strapping tape around the entire axe at an angle to the first layer.
The axe should be stiff, but it needs a little give also, they will give you black and blue bruises as is.
Use the duct tape to cover the entire axe and then use black electrical tape to mark the striking surfaces.
I used some thin rough leather to wrap the gripping surface of the handles, but this is not necessary.
All of this will give you a trainer with the same weight and balance as the real thing. You can made training knives that work very well and are very durable in the same manner.
The ones that I made lasted several years of very heavy use in very rough and tumble training.
If I can be of any further assistance, feel free to contact me.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2000
- Messages
- 735
I just made a trainer that I really like:
1) Find a shovel handle. I'm not talking about something like a broom handle, I'm talking about a good, old fashioned spade handle, the kind that is kind of thick on both ends and thin towards the middle. Cut about 18-22 inches of this out with a wood saw, so you have a stout, thick handle.
2) Buy a screw in hook. These can be found in a home improvement store for a few bucks. They are about five inches long, the last two inches are a wood screw, and the rest is a hook covered in plastic. People usualy get them in packs of two and hang bikes on the walls of their garages with them. They are designed to hold lots of weights and stick securely into the wall beams.
3) screw the hook into your handle., so that the screw part is perpendicular too the handle and the open part of the hook faces up. If you try to use some cheap, ramin-wood dowel from the craft store, it will split, so it's important to have the shovel handle. Screw it into the handle until the open part of the hook.
4) You now have a handle with a hook sticking out of it sideways, so that the main cutting edge of the tomahawk is the curve of the hook, and the bottom of the head is the closed side of the hook. These are the two surfaces that will contact a target in striking and hooking, so pad the heck out of them. Any type of foam or sponge works, squeeze it down and tape it as close as possible. Keep in mind that this is going to hit your heavy bag, training partner, and other things. Pad it ten times as much as you think you need too. Pull the tape tight so you can put on lots of layers. You end up with a dense but soft cushion.
5) On the other side of the same end of the handle (where the spike or hammer pol would be on a real hawk) You get to balence it out. Find some tire weights, the small strip kind with the adhesive backing that let you break off one little 1/2 inch square at a time. Get the strip the right length to match the balance of your hawk, and stick it on.
6) Now, wrap the whole thing is duct tape, so it looks like one continuous, duct tape head at the top of the handle. Wrap this all in athletic tape.
I like this trainer. It's a little harder then I'd like, but that all depends on how much foam you use. It feel perfect in terms of weight too.
1) Find a shovel handle. I'm not talking about something like a broom handle, I'm talking about a good, old fashioned spade handle, the kind that is kind of thick on both ends and thin towards the middle. Cut about 18-22 inches of this out with a wood saw, so you have a stout, thick handle.
2) Buy a screw in hook. These can be found in a home improvement store for a few bucks. They are about five inches long, the last two inches are a wood screw, and the rest is a hook covered in plastic. People usualy get them in packs of two and hang bikes on the walls of their garages with them. They are designed to hold lots of weights and stick securely into the wall beams.
3) screw the hook into your handle., so that the screw part is perpendicular too the handle and the open part of the hook faces up. If you try to use some cheap, ramin-wood dowel from the craft store, it will split, so it's important to have the shovel handle. Screw it into the handle until the open part of the hook.
4) You now have a handle with a hook sticking out of it sideways, so that the main cutting edge of the tomahawk is the curve of the hook, and the bottom of the head is the closed side of the hook. These are the two surfaces that will contact a target in striking and hooking, so pad the heck out of them. Any type of foam or sponge works, squeeze it down and tape it as close as possible. Keep in mind that this is going to hit your heavy bag, training partner, and other things. Pad it ten times as much as you think you need too. Pull the tape tight so you can put on lots of layers. You end up with a dense but soft cushion.
5) On the other side of the same end of the handle (where the spike or hammer pol would be on a real hawk) You get to balence it out. Find some tire weights, the small strip kind with the adhesive backing that let you break off one little 1/2 inch square at a time. Get the strip the right length to match the balance of your hawk, and stick it on.
6) Now, wrap the whole thing is duct tape, so it looks like one continuous, duct tape head at the top of the handle. Wrap this all in athletic tape.
I like this trainer. It's a little harder then I'd like, but that all depends on how much foam you use. It feel perfect in terms of weight too.