Too big a jump?

I have an Atoma diamond bench "stone" it's their finest I believe? 1200?

I'm not particular. I do use coarse, medium stones before it.....
I just grind and sharpen. My edges are sharp.


What are you worried about? If you are just touching up, I think you will be fine.

If you want to grind out deep chips, you might want another one coarser
 
Big jumps in grit progression are only important if you're trying to polish the bevels - it'll make it tougher to remove all the coarse-grit scratches before polishing. If you're polishing, then keep the grit jumps as narrow as you can.

Otherwise, jumping from a coarse (325) to EF (1200) can produce an extremely aggressive slicing edge that you might like a LOT. I tend to favor edges like that for the knives I use everyday. The 1200 will narrow the apex width atop the coarser, toothy biting edge left by the 325. That's a good thing, as I view it.

I've liked using a medium or fine ceramic to set a barely-there microbevel, after setting the edge with either a Coarse (325) DMT or even an XC (220) DMT. Either of the ceramics will be an even more extreme jump, as compared to following with an EF (1200) DMT. Take the refinement as far as you can with the coarse stage, thinning and deburring as much as you can. Then, just 2 or 3 very light passes per side with the finer hone will narrow the apex further and also clean up any remaining burr remnants. That makes for a great slicing edge.
 
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I wouldn’t say 4x is fine as much as I’d say it’s ok if that is what you have.
2x is more of a standard progression.
 
I wouldn’t say 4x is fine as much as I’d say it’s ok if that is what you have.
2x is more of a standard progression.
Shapton purposely sells a set of Glass Stones that is 500-2K-16K
A lot of people go from 320 to 1K and from 1K to 5K+
And let me tell you, those people who collect J-knives are not cheap. They jump down the rabbit hole for both knives and stones. Some of them admit to having roughly a car's value worth of knives in their main rotations.
 
I have the Metallic CBN stones and I often use 120 400 2K then strop with 6 Micron Gunny Juice.
 
Big jumps in grit progression are only important if you're trying to polish the bevels - it'll make it tougher to remove all the coarse-grit scratches before polishing. If you're polishing, then keep the grit jumps as narrow as you can.

Otherwise, jumping from a coarse (325) to EF (1200) can produce an extremely aggressive slicing edge that you might like a LOT. I tend to favor edges like that anymore, for the edges I use everyday. The 1200 will narrow the apex width atop the coarser, toothy biting edge left by the 325. That's a good thing, as I view it.

I've liked using a medium or fine ceramic to set a barely-there microbevel, after setting the edge with either a Coarse (325) DMT or even an XC (220) DMT. Either of the ceramics will be an even more extreme jump, as compared to following with an EF (1200) DMT. Take the refinement as far as you can with the coarse stage, thinning and deburring as much as you can. Then, just 2 or 3 very light passes per side with the finer hone will narrow the apex further and also clean up any remaining burr remnants. That makes for a great slicing edge.

100% agree. The jump is no big deal, I also love the edge that combo leaves. Only time you need to worry about grit jumps is if you are going for a perfect mirrored edge bevel.
 
A large jump is no big deal as long as you are not working with much surface area. For a microbevel no problem at all. For a very wide, flat bevel it may be a little different. Especially as noted if you're really trying to get a consistently high polish across the entire surface.
 
A large jump is no big deal as long as you are not working with much surface area. For a microbevel no problem at all. For a very wide, flat bevel it may be a little different. Especially as noted if you're really trying to get a consistently high polish across the entire surface.
No,not looking for high polish.Thank You.
 
If your using water stones I know a few guys that like to go from a 1K stone straight to a Suehiro G8 8K stone,you get a bit of a hybrid edge in the sense that it's still toothy but it's also been refined but the big thing is to not over work the edge with the G8 stone.
 
Another vote for grit progression only matters if you are going for a mirror finish. You can do it and get an edge that will shave. I do it on my toothier finishes because I don't like stropping a just sharpened edge.
 
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