Too hard to file = too hard to use?

Thomas Linton

Thomas Linton

Joined
Jun 16, 2003
Messages
20,206
Bought an old "Plumb" shingling hard and gave it a new handle. It looked like just the tool for use back-packing. When I tried to sharpen it with a new mill file it was NO GO. Ended up using a diamond hone. Any view out there as to wheher this puppy is suitable for general hand axe use?

TAL
 
Tom-
I'll hazard a reply since you haven't got any. I'm not quite familiar with the specific ax you mentioned. Is this a modern shingling ax with a hammer on one side, and a thin, narrow blade with a nail notch on the other? Or were you talking about an antique shingle splitting axe with a very wide chisel ground blade?

At any rate, just because you can't easily sharpen it with a file doesn't necessarily mean it's too hard. (it could be, though) Assuming it's a quality piece, then the manufacturer built it to take hard use most working tools see. Some people tend to think chopping tools should be soft. :confused: Each steel has a specific hardness where its impact toughness is greatest, and it is often much higher than people must think. For most steels, they are actually *weaker* in the low 50s Rc. I'd personally prefer most carbon steels in the 56-58 Rc range for this application. The axe should have all the strength it needs from its much thicker edge. The harder edge will also resist damage better if you hit a rock or nail, for example.

In the end, I think the best thing to do, would be to test it out before you get into a situation where you really need it! If you can't break it, great. And you will probably end up pleasantly surprised with its superious toughness and edge holding.
 
I will just comment that all new files are not created equal. Especially if you purchased it from one of the discount brand tool dealers.
 
Possum, the head is a "modern" type with a square hammer head pole and a nail puller at the top and bottom of the narrower-than-I've-seen-before blade. Marked "Plumb" and (lighter strike)"Victor" in a box on the side of the head. Patina is very dark.


KNZN, the file was new, not "discount" brand, and had no problem sharpening another (Nordlund) axe. Don't know how it'll work now. In sharpening the blade with a diamond hone, the effort to get "bite" felt like I was sharpening a pretty hard carbon steel knife.

Thank you for the replies.
 
That strike is really light. Could be "Victory" rather than "Victor" -- or what may be a "y" could just be a scratch.
 
I've got a very similar Plumb hatchet, and the file just skates off.
I got it 30 years ago, and used it camping for 20 of those years.

It never gave me a bit of trouble.:)
 
not knowing much about axes (came here to learn!) is it possible that your axe is differentially tempered? Or has a welded in edge? might be worth seeing how the file attacks parts of the axe away from the edge.
 
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