Too much Barkeepers Friend. Help!

J

jeswa2

Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
3
Some food item (a pickle maybe?) I was cutting the other day with my Spyderco Captain (VG-10) left a faint yet ugly brownish stain on part of the blade.

After doing some research and hearing good things about Barkeepers Friend, I decided to use it.
I followed the directions, up until the end where it says not to keep it on the surface for longer than a minute.
I got distracted from what I was doing and the polish remained on the blade for 10 minutes or so.

When I washed it off the blade was stained with a dull grey, cloudy film.

480970168_86af0704d9.jpg


The film is easy to scratch with my fingernail, but even fine scrubbing items don't remove it well enough. Even Never Dull does nothing to help.

Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
 
I am using for polishing mix of Formula 3 Gun Conditioner mixed with Green Polishing compound on felt or some cut of thick tooling leather (velvet side). It takes away any rust, just be patient and rub it for some time - but for sure it will take care of any rust. All others anti-rust things is too radical for knives - what is good for shovel or bike too much for knife blade.

In this case I think you may try wood to scratch this out you may try wood with that mix I mentioned.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
:eek:
Barkeeper's Enemy? :D

Yeah, maybe Flitz or Simichrome with ultrafine steelwool.
Good luck...
 
I messed up the etching on my Mcusta damascus by leaving polish on too long, cleaned up OK but took the etching off with it:eek:
 
Try using Bon Ami and a scrub pad. Bon Ami is just soap and powdered feldspar. The feldspar is soft enough that it should not scratch the steel. But it should polish off the haze.

BarKeepers Friend has a slug of oxalic acid-dihydrate in it. Oxalic acid is a fairly strong organic acid. The haze is a reaction product of the oxalic acid. It should polish off.
 
Thanks for all the replies.
Now I'm wondering...
Bon Ami or Flitz or both? What's the consensus?
 
What have you got available?
You should be able to get Bon Ami at the local market.

Of the solutions listed I think the Bon Ami is the least aggressive. You might try it first and if it doesn't work, go to the next suggestion.
 
willgoy said:
GB, could you explain what PCB is please? No Radio Shack in the EU so I need an eqivalent, thanks.
Click to expand...
Printed Circuit Board. You could make your own. Homemade etch is 1 part Muriatic Acid to 2 parts Hydrogen Peroxide (the common 3% kind that's sold in dollar stores & drugstores).

I don't know what it would do to your knife though. Maybe GarageBoy will chime in as to it's effects, time left on etc. Also, mixing chemicals could be hazardous. In this case add the acid to the peroxide slowly. Do not add the peroxide to the acid. Let the peroxide be the one at rest and not the one poured.
 
Bon Ami as someone said is easy to pick up at your local supermarket, or
hardware store.

Try it. It's very inexpensive.

Wash it off with a good detergent like Palmolive or Dawn and very hot water.

If you see some decent results, then just repeat the process until the staining is gone.

If Bon Ami doesn't provide any results, go with the Flitz or Simichrome.
They come in many sizes, but really all you need is the toothpaste-sized tube.

Available on ebay, or just look around on the internet.

Then use the Flitz or Simichrome as the instructions state.

This should show some results.
You can then just repeat, especially the polishing part, until all that staining is gone.

Finally, if the Flitz or Simichrome alone doesn't help much, you can try using either with extra fine steel wool as someone already suggested.
Be sure to get "0000" Steel Wool. Also known as "Final Finish". Use of Flitz (or Simichrome) with 0000 Steel Wool should remove those stains for sure.

And you'll have a very shiny blade, too.
 
Actually, I haven't done it before, but I've heard of it done in the CRK forum and in the past. I also remember the damascus manufacturers using it OEM. You just wipe it on and off I think, and neutralize, to bring out the contrast
 
Pff i could mirror polish that blade in 20 minutes both side and so canyou. Head to local ace hardware or any pplace that you can find who sells wet dry sand papper from say 600 grit on up to 2k grit.

Sence you only need to polish a film of sorts off start at 1k grit start dry.
place the sand paper on a peice of glass and with light presure slide the blade in random circles with light presure. Turn over repeat on other side when the blade looks like silk add some low viscosity oil to the 1k grit (read end for procedure for non flat ground blades as it differs just a tiny bit when comes to polishing the hollow grind.) Repeat the same light presure on flat random circles motion. Next move on to finner grit say 1500 (you could skip strait to 2k grit just takes longer). Only wet this time with same oil as in first stage. Once finished youll hae a nice milky shine not quite a mirror. Finish up with the 2k same deal with oil. This is when you just zone out and go slow dont sit and check every minute or something. Do both side very light presure rinse in clean hot watter. You should now have a near mirror finish on your blade. You can finish the mirror finish with flitz metal glow simichrome what ever polish paste you wish even tooth paste (non jell cheap ass white toothpaste works best and jells dont work for crap).

You can pretty well stop at any point you wish in the pollishing depending on what finish you like on a blade. I my self rarely go past milky shin.

Ok for the hollow grind on a blade you need a hard foam sanding block (looks like a small square bout 1/8 or so thick. Wrap the sand paper tight as you can use oil dry etc same as above and keep your circles small as possible. I place the blade so the edge touchs the table top for safty reasons leather is even better hard foam pad is best. This way you dont cut your self to shreads or dull your edge. I found that doing it i always seem to end up with a slightly sharper edge when finished hehe.

If you got serious scratches lower the first grit of paper going dry to the 600 grit range then do dry and wet on that and wet there after.
 
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