Hello so i have a question how to fix my edge. I put a very shallow edge on my benchmade contego by mistake. and it slices like a laser but i noticed the tip isnt pointy as it used to be. same issue on some other shallow bevels but not really bad. but this is an issue that really bothers me. i take the m390 to extra extra fine dmt stones and stop to finish. I tried putting a microbevel on and the tip is back but it is a horrible slicer
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How To Too shallow edge
- Thread starter ZtCubster
- Start date
II assume you did this freehand? You didn't specify. If that's the case, you need to practice a little more. Get some cheap knives and start practicing. A good way to help you not overrun the tip is to sharpen with water and watch the puddle carefully as you sweep along the edge. You'll be able to see where the blade is contacting the stone by watching the way the water is pushed. As you sharpen the edge, sweep along the edge by raising the handle only until you see that puddle being pushed right at the tip and stop there.
I'm confused by what's wrong. A knife with a low edge angle and a knife with a pointy tip don't seem to have any relation. ...and fixing a blunt tip by making it pointy should not have any effect on the main edge at all.
I'm probably missing something obvious.
Brian.
I'm probably missing something obvious.
Brian.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,437
Sounds like the 'tip not as pointy as it used to be' may just be due to some rounding off of the tip during the reprofiling. Either the reprofile didn't quite extend fully through the tip, or it just got rounded off or blunted a bit. Could also be a burr that's upturned at the tip, which is created during the reprofile of the cutting edge (this happens a LOT more often than many may be aware). That barely-perceptible, upturned burr can prevent the tip from penetrating a piece of paper easily, if at all. Oftentimes, an easy fix is to just turn the blade over and lightly grind the spine down (tip-trailing passes) until it fully and cleanly intersects the newly-thinned cutting edge. Use a magnifier to check how 'close' it is to intersection, as you work the spine near the tip.
I think most of the 'fix' for it not cutting well now will be in making a more cleanly-apexed microbevel. It's not currently cutting well because the apex of the microbevel is likely incomplete, rounded off, too wide (in angle), or just burred too much. A cleaner apex will ensure it's still sharp and cuts well. Microbevelling is kind of tricky to do cleanly, if one takes too many passes at it (freehand); that'll increase the chance of an off-angle pass or two rounding off or widening the angle of the microbevel.
I think most of the 'fix' for it not cutting well now will be in making a more cleanly-apexed microbevel. It's not currently cutting well because the apex of the microbevel is likely incomplete, rounded off, too wide (in angle), or just burred too much. A cleaner apex will ensure it's still sharp and cuts well. Microbevelling is kind of tricky to do cleanly, if one takes too many passes at it (freehand); that'll increase the chance of an off-angle pass or two rounding off or widening the angle of the microbevel.