My new Sebenza was a bit too hard for me to open. After reading some of the posts here, I decided to polish the washers and see if I couldn't make it a bit easier. All went well. Reassembled and It did seem a bit smoother but still required more force to get started opening than I liked. My thumb was getting worn raw by the thumb stud. (Girlie fingers I guess)! I noticed that when I held the lock bar to the side, the blade was very free and smooth. I took the knife apart again and realized that the lock bar can be bent to relieve some of the tension. It's tough but it can be done. First I bent it a bit too far so I had to bend it back a bit. This must be done when the knife is fully dissembled as the other side is in the way. Anyhow I was able to adjust it to absolute perfection. Much easier to get started, very smooth and effortless to slide up into the locked position but still locks with a clunk. That bank vault feel that only Sebenza owners know. Hadn't read of this before so I thought I'd post it up.
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Too Tight
- Thread starter Third°
- Start date
The way I look at it, there are three relevant adjustments: Resistance at the pivot, resistance at the detent and spring action in the lock bar.
For the pivot, you just need to remove any unnecessary friction. Polishing the washers is the answer there, although it would definitely be possible to remove too much material, so take it slowly and keep the force normal to the washer.
For the detent, a little lube on the ball will probably give a hint as to whether this is the problem. One could polish a little material off the ball, but bear in mind it's going to wear in with time... and you don't want sloppy detent retention.
For the lock bar, I think you just want enough force to allow for proper engagement at the tang, and not much more. As Dave suggests, the knives seem to ship with this modality adjusted properly.
Relative to O/P's comments, I guess the main thing I'm saying is to be careful about using lock bar adjustment as a sideways means of addressing one of the other two modalities. Also, small initial adjustments are better than dramatic ones - just enough to make sure you understand what you are doing, and how it's affecting the mechanism.
Based on the experience I've had with my four knives, I'd say cycle a brand-new knife 100 times or so first. Then, if you want to smooth it out, polish the washers maybe 10 rotations per side with light finger pressure on stropping rouge. Then dab a little lube on the detent ball, and live with that for a while.
This sort of a mechanism, simple as it might be, is a constantly evolving thing. You don't want to get ahead of yourself in terms of making adjustments before it wears in. Another thing is that some of the "adjustments" may end up being cognitive. After you've lived with something for a while, you may adapt to it, and you may find that it actually works pretty darn well without intervention.
Just thinking out loud.
For the pivot, you just need to remove any unnecessary friction. Polishing the washers is the answer there, although it would definitely be possible to remove too much material, so take it slowly and keep the force normal to the washer.
For the detent, a little lube on the ball will probably give a hint as to whether this is the problem. One could polish a little material off the ball, but bear in mind it's going to wear in with time... and you don't want sloppy detent retention.
For the lock bar, I think you just want enough force to allow for proper engagement at the tang, and not much more. As Dave suggests, the knives seem to ship with this modality adjusted properly.
Relative to O/P's comments, I guess the main thing I'm saying is to be careful about using lock bar adjustment as a sideways means of addressing one of the other two modalities. Also, small initial adjustments are better than dramatic ones - just enough to make sure you understand what you are doing, and how it's affecting the mechanism.
Based on the experience I've had with my four knives, I'd say cycle a brand-new knife 100 times or so first. Then, if you want to smooth it out, polish the washers maybe 10 rotations per side with light finger pressure on stropping rouge. Then dab a little lube on the detent ball, and live with that for a while.
This sort of a mechanism, simple as it might be, is a constantly evolving thing. You don't want to get ahead of yourself in terms of making adjustments before it wears in. Another thing is that some of the "adjustments" may end up being cognitive. After you've lived with something for a while, you may adapt to it, and you may find that it actually works pretty darn well without intervention.
Just thinking out loud.
mongomondo
SUPPRESSING FIRE
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
Return it to CRK or whoever you bought it from because it's defective. My small regular Sebenza had the exact same problem and was very difficult to open. It should open effortlessly and smoothly.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2004
- Messages
- 1,399
The very first thing to consider if you're getting a sore thumb opening a Sebenza is to confirm that you're opening at the correct angle. If that's not the problem, and the pivot is still stiff after cleaning/lubing, I'd send it back to CRK.
Here's the thread on angle: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=568899
Here's the thread on angle: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=568899
Not everyone would say the spring tension is the way they like it when they come out of the box. Some fingers may be more calloused, or girly (Third°'s words, not mine 
) and find the blade easier to open. I've adjusted the spring tension on two of my sebs and it's easier than farting. How you'd hose one from adjusting it is beyond me. I mean, I can see how you could, but you'd have to be fairly mechanically un-inclined, and crank it over way too far. A simple bending it back would be the solution. I guess you could back-and-forth it enough to snap it off, but that'd mean trying to do so, not accidentally.
Oh sebbie, how I love you. Let me count the ways.
) and find the blade easier to open. I've adjusted the spring tension on two of my sebs and it's easier than farting. How you'd hose one from adjusting it is beyond me. I mean, I can see how you could, but you'd have to be fairly mechanically un-inclined, and crank it over way too far. A simple bending it back would be the solution. I guess you could back-and-forth it enough to snap it off, but that'd mean trying to do so, not accidentally.Oh sebbie, how I love you. Let me count the ways.
Yes, the clip was removed. Many replies here like I hadn't already done it. I posted this because I had already made the adjustment. I had probably opened and closed the knife 1000 times or more before adjusting it. Just to try to get some break in. The adjustment was very simple to do. To me, the thought of a $300.00 knife, mine was over $400. being properly adjusted from the factory is correct and mine was, but also the beauty of this knife is how easy it is to personalize it to an individuals touch and feel. As I said the adjustment was very easy to do. If yours is a bit tight have at it!I'm finding it hard to put mine down now.