Took some pics from the mail room , great Kuks, OK pics

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PappaCutter

Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
107
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The wood handle I need to throw some oil on, thanks for the info guys

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Chainpura and a BAS Blem I grabbed the other day

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Kothimoda, love the white bone handle

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WWII

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I really went to work on the KLVUK, it was kinda rough and had glue spread about. It cleaned up real nice with ten minutes scrapping and sanding. I really Like it now.

Pappa out
 
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Can anyone tell me the deal on the cho on the chainpura. Edumacate me: The chainpura is made by Chainpur? The Kami is Chainpur?
This Kuk feels great in the hand, very fast.

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Chainpure is a district in Nepal. Many of the styles of khukuri you see are regional styles.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chainpur,_Kosi

The kauri (cho) on this model is always enclosed. Some say it represents a sacred cow track, some say its pariwa ki aka - single eye of the dove. A type of enclosed Cho with a single protuberance. The true meaning, as with the cho itself has been lost to time.
 
Just gorgeous knives...the KLVUK lala excess seems not uncommon, just shows a good glue joint to me, and quite a few household agents (around MY house anyhow) seem to remove it easily.....i adore the white handle as well, and the WWII a great all purpose user as one would expect, powerful/portable blend....
 
Get some oil on it soon though, it looks really thirsty.

Nice photo's, glad you posted em.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Im about done for a while. I have a Tin Chirra coming in with one of those magnificent Cho's and the custom build. Time to put on the brakes. Thanks again to Karda for directing me here to this unlimited resource for Kuks and knowledge. Good stuff.
 
The bone handle looks magnificent and old old old as if you just bought a new knife from before the turn of the last century, a fancier knife for a guy who had a little loose change to afford some quality touches.....
 
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Yea, she was thirsty, real thirsty. I kept lathering on the Formbys Tung Oil finish, low gloss. They had it at Lowes so I went with it to get something on it. Anything bad about this stuff? It looks less thirsty.

Pappa
 
PappaCutter said:
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Yea, she was thirsty, real thirsty. I kept lathering on the Formbys Tung Oil finish, low gloss. They had it at Lowes so I went with it to get something on it. Anything bad about this stuff? It looks less thirsty.

Pappa
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It looks great to me.
 
It looks super. And not nearly as thirsty. If it seems to dry out and look thirsty too quickly you might have to thin the tung oil a bit to get it to soak in deep. Been awhile since I used Tung oil but I think Mineral Spirits is the thinner.

Same as Linseed.

Looks really good now, you done good.
 
Im going to let it completely dry and do another dousing tomorrow. When finished is there any final step I need to do? Its still a bit sticky, so I expect it is not yet dry.

Second question: is this product appropriate for other well finished handles? Or should I use some "finishing touches" type product? Furniture Polish type products.

Thanks for the help.

Pappa
 
PappaCutter said:
Im going to let it completely dry and do another dousing tomorrow. When finished is there any final step I need to do? Its still a bit sticky, so I expect it is not yet dry.
Second question: is this product appropriate for other well finished handles? Or should I use some "finishing touches" type product? Furniture Polish type products.
Thanks for the help.
Pappa
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Now that you have it hydrated you might want to leave it to dry a few more days then rub it down good with some 4 ought steel wool once again to knock off the raised grain then do a final oiling with the same stuff your using or Boiled Linseed Oil and call it done. Still need to keep it wiped down for maintenance every month or so. After six months or so of use and maintenance you could probably even wax it to seal in the good stuff. Theres a billion ways to do it but what you have done already is 90% of Khul! Occassional oiling and thats all it really needs.

You did a wonderful job on that wood! With them skills you will do good getting blems and bringing them up to perfection. Your skills is what makes these blems such a value.
 
I will be doing a hard coat on mine which nixes much more oil based stuff....typical oil finishes are to coat and allow COMPLETE drying which most folk cannot do, and then sand/steel wool between coats....most folk hit it too soon and soft underneath and end up a gummy mess....and need strip and start all over....mine will just get a clear coat, i think....i have done the old Swede BLO/turpentine/beeswax before so i know turpentine works as for a thinner.....
 
mtngunr said:
I will be doing a hard coat on mine which nixes much more oil based stuff....typical oil finishes are to coat and allow COMPLETE drying which most folk cannot do, and then sand/steel wool between coats....most folk hit it too soon and soft underneath and end up a gummy mess....and need strip and start all over....mine will just get a clear coat, i think....i have done the old Swede BLO/turpentine/beeswax before so i know turpentine works as for a thinner.....
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Most folks do it wrong then because of the instructions on these bottles?

Mine says for tung oil for example:
let soak for an hour
Wipe off excess.
after 12h steel wool/roughen surface carefully
Apply new layer.
Repeat until you think you are done.

Works for me though I tend to wait 24hs since that's just how my schedule works out.
 
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