• The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
    Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.

  • Today marks the 24th anniversary of 9/11. I pray that this nation does not forget the loss of lives from this horrible event. Yesterday conservative commentator Charlie Kirk was murdered, and I worry about what is to come. Please love one another and your family in these trying times - Spark

Tooling around sheath?

weo

Basic Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2014
Messages
3,067
Hello all. I'm about ready to make another pouch sheath and I'm adding some tooling on this one.
I'm thinking about stamping a basket weave on the whole sheath. Is this a bad idea? I can see the possibility of the stamping getting smoothed out on the spine of the sheath over the years.
Also, now that I'm going to be casing my leather for the tooling, is there a specific order to the process?
I'm thinking:
1. Cut and fit pattern and welt. 2. Make stitching grooves. 3. Case and tool. 4. Finish sheath.
Is this correct?
Thanks in advance
~billyO
 
I don't make stitching grooves until after I get it all glued up and the edges sanded, that way it is a consistent distance from the edge
 
I never tool the back side of a sheath......there is a reason, particularly on pouch style sheaths. I determine the center line of the sheath, and draw a vertical line 1/8" either right or left of that mark depending on whether it is right or left hand carry. I then determine the margin for the rest of the intended tooling area, put those lines in with a compass and then cut and bevel the lines. Tool within those boundaries. This eliminates the "fading" of the tooling in the bend area, because there is very little there.

IMPORTANT NOTE:When cutting the boundry lines make very sure you only cut that center most vertical line to only about half normal depth. This will be in the area of the subsequent fold and will mitigate the tendency to split or crack there.

Paul
 
Paul,

I ALWAYS carry my tooling around to the back of the sheath on a pouch sheath - so now I have to know if you are willing to share - what are your reasons for not tooling the back.

I trust your judgement and am always willing to add to my knowledge set.

Thanks,

Jason
 
Well, Jason, I guess the main reason is that as you get the order book filled up and aback log begins to appear you try to save a little time here and there and since the back side of a sheath is rarely seen in use, it seems like that tooling time could be better used elsewhere. That's reason number 1.

2.On pouch sheaths if you don't plan for a bordered break between the front and back then whatever tooling spans that gap is going to suffer some fading due to stretch and will no longer match either the front or the back. I am OCD enough that I cannot abide that.

3. My maker's mark, (which is very important to me as it is my brand and as my name recognition grew became equally important to my consumers) goes on the back of every sheath. I do not care to over stamp the mark on top of tooling and creating a space within the tooled area is even more time consuming and also lends itself to self inflicted wounds and errors especially with critical geometric tools where absolute uninterrupted precision is a must.

Finally and probably most important, back when I was first starting out I did tool the front , back, top , bottom and sides of everything I made......just couldn't get enough of a good thing. Well, my mentor at that time said, "Boy, you're getting pretty good......if you ever learn when enough is enough you'll be there. That's another way of saying what Ken quotes in his sig line. Look up one of his posts and read it several times, then instead of adding, see what you can take away.;)

Paul
 
Last edited:
All them reasons and one more. Years ago I use to tool around too. Wasn't making so many sheaths then but lots of holsters. I found that holsters that were getting used and abused and not taken care of cracked under the tooling over the fold much more easily. Same holster mistreated the same way and not tooled over the fold, no cracks. no more tooling over folds
 
Thank you both very much for your opinions.

I agree very much with the concept of the makers mark not being able to be seen - as well as the fade at the bend and with a deep impression it makes a weaker spot.

All great points and why I ask.

Thanks again,

Jason
 
Back
Top