Tools for drilling and tapping

[dkb45]

As a lefty I got just about squat for knives that fit right into my preferences. I have seen many that have everything but a lefty clip. My question is that I know you can drill and tap new screw threads, but I have no idea how this is done (my dad can help on that part), and what you need to use. My dad has a tap and dye set, but they are far too large. Do you just need a small tap set? I don't know much about actual metalworking.

 

[killgar]

Drilling is the easy part. You need a drill press, and a drill bit of appropriate diameter and material based on the metal you want to drill. All bits are not the same. For example- if you are drilling stainless steel, I would recommend a carbide or carbide-tipped bit.

Hardened steel can be drilled using a carbide bit, but tapping hardened steel is a whole other matter. I wouldn't even try it.

Tapping stainless steel can be tricky/difficult even if it isn't hardened. And the smaller a tap is, the greater the chance it will break.

If it's titanium you want to drill and tap, I have no experience with that, but from what I hear titanium is more difficult to work with than stainless steel.

If it's brass or aluminum you want to tap, they are much easier. But again, tapping straight can be tricky/difficult. If you get it wrong, you can't re-tap that same hole with the same size tap. If you don't keep the tap straight you can wind up with a screw that threads in at an angle.

If you are set on drilling and tapping some holes, and if you are not experienced doing so, then I would advise finding someone who is highly skilled and experienced at doing so with the material and screw size you desire.

Also, there is more than one way to attach a clip to a knife. Tapping is not always necessary. One method is to drill the holes all the way through, then countersink the holes on the side of the liner or bolster opposite the clip side using a V-shaped countersink bit, then use V-head screws, run the screws from the inside out with the threaded ends of the screws sticking out of the clip holes. Countersinking the holes will allow the heads of the screws to seat flush with, or lower than, the surface of the liner or bolster depending on how thick the metal is and how deep you countersink the hole. Then secure the clip with nuts and locktite on the screws. After securing the clip with screws and locktite the ends of the screws can be smoothed out using a dremel with a sanding attachment, or a fine file, and then a coarse buffing attachment or sand paper.

 

[dkb45]

Wow. A lot more complex than I had anticipated. So I would likely be better off going to a good machinist to get it done by a professional?

 

[killgar]

Wow. A lot more complex than I had anticipated. So I would likely be better off going to a good machinist to get it done by a professional?

If you want tapped holes I would say yes. Tapping is a very easy thing to screw up, and it takes a good amount of skill to get it perfect. The type of skill required takes quite a bit of knowledge and experience, and you don't want to try it for the first time on a knife you care about.

Don't get me wrong, tapping isn't rocket science, but tapping small holes is very fine, precision work. And one of the worst things is when you get the tap halfway through the hole and the tap breaks, with the tip of the tap stuck tight down in the hole. That really sucks. And getting the broken tip out isn't easy, or pretty.

Even choosing the right tap takes knowledge and experience as there are different types of taps for different types of holes (although that's relatively easy knowledge to learn).

Of course you could always practice drilling and tapping on various pieces of metal, and after awhile develop the necessary skill, but that could take awhile, and you could go through a few (or many) taps in the process (and that can get expensive). Or, you might pick it up fast and find it easy.

If you just want it done, and have it done right the first time, then I would suggest having a professional do it. I'm sure there are a few qualified individuals on this forum who would accept the job, or perhaps you can find someone local.

 

[blanex1]

its not that hard to drill/tap,i have done it lots of times and i'm not a pro,you will need a drill and tap set,the proper size used for knifes though! my i suggest going to US knifemakers.com as they would have all the taps drill bits and screws thread sizes you are going to need,you don't need a drill-press!but it really makes it a little faster,i have gotten by with just a 1/2'' hand drill,and some dykem blue)a layout fluid for making the holes,as a side note,if your only going to be doing 2 or 3 knifes!you may not wont to invest in this assortment of tools! just send it to a knifesmith and be done with it.hope this helps.

 

[Rey HRH]

The hard part, I think, is positioning the holes relative to each other. You need to transfer the hole positions from the clip to the handle. Then hopefully, the hole diameters in the clip can accept some tolerance.

I would practice on some small pieces of wood first.

 

[tiguy7]

I recommend drilling and tapping Titanium. If you break a drill or a tap, you can dissolve it out of the work with acid. I use battery acid. Go slow and use a lot of lube. A hand tapper helps to keep the tap aligned.
Most pocket clips are attached with #2X56TPI screws. If you want to attach a clip to non-metal handles (like G-10), you should insert Heli-coils. They are threaded metal inserts greatly strengthen the connection.

 

[Phydeaux]

Rey HRH has a good idea, try it out on some wood, plastic or metal to get a feel for it. Make sure the tap is square to the material you are tapping, especially with thinner materials. You could also get an inexpensive knife (I use my Kershaw Chill to experiment on) as a test run. Make sure to use cutting or tapping fluid, it makes it much easier.

You can get smaller taps at a place like McMasterCarr, Grainger, MSC. I got 4-40, 2-56 and 1-80 taps from McMaster.

If you tap through the liners, make sure that the screws are the right length so they don't interfere with the blade or lock mechanism. Guess how I figured that one out....

Ric