Tools for Satoyama - Making the Mountain Kotanto

[islandblacksmith]

i know it's been awhile, i have been working away at things...time to emerge from the shop for a few minutes and post...

Satoyama are the managed forest areas that border the cultivated fields and the mountain wilds in Japan. Historically they provided fertilizer, firewood, edible plants, mushrooms, fish, and game, and supported local industries such as farming, construction, and charcoal making. Balancing the interaction of wetlands, streams, forests, and fields is an important component of the satoyama landscape and allows for sustainable use of the rich resources they offer.


About the Tools for Satoyama Project (more: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/03/tools-for-satoyama)

The Tools for Satoyama project is inspired by this mutually beneficial interaction between humans and the natural world, a robust way of life that sustained both for centuries. Among the goals of the project are contributing to the growing awareness of the satoyama concept, sustainable practices, thoughtful approaches to intentional living, and related historical learning.

The four styles of kotanto knives designed for the project are named for the four main areas found within the satoyama landscape: stream, field, forest, and mountain. In addition, the forest and mountain models also come in a full sized tanto configuration. Some of the core characteristics of the knives produced for this project are the reclaimed and natural source materials, use of traditional techniques, and a humble and simple style of carving and finishing.

About the Mountain Kotanto (more: islandblacksmith.ca/2016/08/process-making-the-mountain-kotanto)

The wider profile of the mountain style kotanto is inspired by a kamakura sword and has a more deeply curved tip (fukura-tsuku) and shorter drop point. The simple and humble mounting style is inspired by the age-old style of farming and foresting tools traditionally used in managing satoyama lands.

Project Overview Video (design your own knife: islandblacksmith.ca/design-your-own-knife-tools-for-satoyama)

[video=youtube;1VqXZgLwnRo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VqXZgLwnRo[/video]

 

[islandblacksmith]

[video=youtube;IXvVUHmsnaA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXvVUHmsnaA[/video]
watch the longer real-time video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tFPLH05Aqc

The raw material for this blade comes from a reclaimed harrow tooth salvaged from a farm in northern Alberta. Shown after the forging stage, all shaping done by hand hammering.

After hand filing to define the machi (tang notches) and clean up the profile.

 

[islandblacksmith]

[video=youtube;mN4xuHuICbk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mN4xuHuICbk[/video]

After hardening the blade with a traditional clay and water method. The thicker clay layer on the body of the blade insulates the steel, causing it to cool slower and form pearlite/ferrite. The thin slip layer on the edge increases the surface area, causing it to cool very quickly, forming martensite.

The bevel is ground down until almost sharp, and the blade surface is cleaned with hot vinegar water to remove remaining forge scale.

This particular harrow tooth seems to have been made of an old piece of shear steel, a rare form of pre-industrial steel used up until about a century and a half ago.

The characteristic layers of a shear steel hada can be seen along the edge where the waterstones have polished the bevel.

 

[islandblacksmith]

One-fourth of a silver-plated copper bus bar bracket is forged to shape. The round hole in the center is reshaped and drifted to create the nakago-ana shaped opening for the tang.

Hand filing adjusts the fit snugly to the shoulders of the blade.

The rim of the guard is filed to an oval profile and given a hammered finish.

 

[islandblacksmith]

[video=youtube;jVe5DsMUTtM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVe5DsMUTtM[/video]
watch the longer real-time video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPPFoQ1I_oQ

The inside of the handle is carved to fit the tang snugly, then the halves are joined together with rice paste glue. When dry the shape of the guard is used to create a shape and the handle is carved to match.

 

[islandblacksmith]

[video=youtube;pzBdiFHBADk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzBdiFHBADk[/video]
watch the longer real-time video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvLFrP6DNhE

As with the handle, the scabbard is carved to fit the blade with saya-nomi (scabbard chisels) and then joined before shaping with kiridashi (carving knife), and kanna (hand plane). A kurikata (cord loop) is carved from Maple and wedged into a keyway.

 

[islandblacksmith]

[video=youtube;kUdy_UjaD9U]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUdy_UjaD9U[/video]
watch the longer real-time video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGVCgaF7IYA

The first layer of natural urushi lacquer is wiped off leaving a thin sealing layer in the pores of the wood.

When fully cured, the handle is wrapped tightly in natural cotton cord to provide strength and grip texture.

The scabbard is also strengthened at key points with tightly wrapped cord.

The cord is saturated with natural urushi lacquer and allowed to cure for several days. Several additional coats of urushi are used to create the final surface, each requiring several days to cure.

Reclaimed tea powder is used to give the scabbard an ishimeji stone texture. Multiple layers of urushi are used to seal, saturate, and create the final surface appearance.

The handle is polished with dried tokusa (horsetail) and then sealed with a final layer of fukiurushi.

 

[BenR.T.]

Man Dave, I could watch your videos all day long. The tools and techniques are just beautiful.
The contrasting textures and colors of the tsuba, Tsuka and saya are just perfect.
Someday when I can afford it, I'll hit you up for a blade like this.
Keep up the fine work.

 

[islandblacksmith]

[video=youtube;Qi6RAGUvbsk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi6RAGUvbsk[/video]
watch the longer real-time video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyFtrcWlYzk

Carving and fitting the mekugi (bamboo peg) that will hold the entire assembly together.

When all of the components are complete, the blade is given its final honing and the knife is ready for assembly.

Specifications

The blade is just under 5.75″ long and the overall length is about 10.25″. The spine at the munemachi is about 5mm thick.

Nagasa (blade length): 144mm
Motokasane (blade thickness): 5mm
Motohaba (blade width): 30mm
Sori (curve): uchizori
Nakago (tang): 102mm
Tsuka (handle): 110mm
Koshirae (overall): 285mm

Katachi (geometry): hira-zukuri, kaku-mune
Hamon (edge pattern): suguha
Boshi (tip pattern): maru
Nakago (tang): futsu, kuri-jiri, one mekugi-ana, signed near the tip
Mei (signature): hot stamped katabami-ken kamon
Koshirae (mounting): satoyama hamidashi style, issaku

Materials: reclaimed harrow tooth steel, copper electrical washer, Nootka Cypress, Maple, cotton cord, natural urushi lacquer, tea leaves, Bamboo


yoroshiku!

 

[islandblacksmith]

thanks, @ben! very much appreciated, keep pushing the envelope!

 

[stezann]

Hi Dave, i have been using your explanations for making the handles for kitchen knives for my parents. It is incredible how thin you can bring the wood around the tang and how light and rock solid the whole handle gets.
The traditional techniques you embraced are still awesome regardless the type of knife one is planning to build!! Thank you very much!!!

 

[Lycosa]

Real life.
I just love this blade.
Thank you, Dave.
rolf

 

[Bob Leedy]

Fascinating lessons on traditional philosophy and craftsmanship. Thank you.

 

[JParanee]

Just wonderful

 

[john april]

excellent. i have watched all your videos. some more than once

 

[AVigil]

Much respect.

Your work is a pleasure to see in progress

Thanks so much for sharing it with us.

 

[braillediver]

Beautiful working pieces. Thanks for sharing the images and video. It's relaxing watching you work. Rustic and simple sort of but beautiful too.

 

[Dawkind]

Always so impressive.....I very much enjoy my islandblacksmith piece from a couple of years ago.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[islandblacksmith]

@stezann great! yes, it is almost a matter of thinking of the handle as a cover for the tang than a separate unit or "block"...

 

[stezann]

Yesss The tightness of the fit makes it one piece, dressed in beautiful wood. I must say however i'm guilt... i used epoxy instead of rice glue, but the next time i'll try the rice.
As soon as my new shop will be finished i'll try to make a real deal kotanto. Thanks to your invaluable tutorials i should have all the informations needed to start praticing.