Top eye larger then bottom eye?

[westwood]

Hello All,

I am new to the forums.

I have a question that I am hoping someone can give me some information on.

I attempted to hang an older Plumb hatchet today, however I noticed that the bottom eye of the axe appears to be smaller then the top. This causes the bottom to be tight, but the top to have a rather large gap. Is this a common issue, and if so is there a reasonable way to fix this?

Should I just make the wooden wedge expand outside of the handle, filling in the gap?

I have included some pictures to demonstrate.

Thanks.

 

[Steve Tall]

Welcome to the forum. It's typical for the eye to be tapered, with a larger top, for better holding when wedged. Here's what I'd do to try to make that handle work. Rasp and/or sand the handle if necessary to get the back (poll side) of the handle to come in contact with the steel. (This will result in a bigger gap at the front (bit side) of the eye, but a gap here can be filled with the wedge.) Also shape the right and left sides of the handle to match the curves of the eye so that there will be no gaps along the sides when the wedge is put into the center and the sides contact the eye. Now shape the wedge so that it will totally fill the center and front space that will result when the wedge is bottomed out and the split handle is contacting the back and sides of the eye. Oversize the wedge, of course, and saw off the excess once it's in place. If everything is fitted well, just one wedge should be sufficient. If the head moves a little bit after hard use, then a diagonal steel wedge can tighten it.

If I'm forgetting something, or describing something incorrectly, someone will hopefully say so.

 

[Billman1949]

As above, but be carefull when fitting or the angle of the handle can be altered... I always allow at least 1/4 inch of the handle to pass through, pre-cut the wedge slot almost to the bottom eye , and cut the wedge over long, and tapered to fill the gap. Steaming or soaking the handle can make it more pliable, and less likely to fracture or split when the wedge is driven home, but it will also expand the wood - leave a week or so to dry out and hammer the wedge fully home before cutting off the excess wedge/handle.

 

[Blue Sky]

The thin gap along the sides is normal and necessary for the wedge to do it's job, the eye is supposed to be tapered. Those big gaps top and bottom might be more of a problem. With those, it will be very hard for the wedge alone to prevent the handle from rocking front to back, you need more handle wood there to lock it in place. A long wedge might seem the answer, but I think any rocking motion at all will only serve to push the wedge up and out. I think you will be fighting loose handles all the time. It doesn't look like that handle is sized to that axe very well.

 

[westwood]

Thanks for the responses. I will try adjusting the handle so that the poll side can in come in contact with the steel. Hopefully a wedge will be able to take care of gap at the front, but we will have to see.

Can anyone suggest a good place to purchase handles online? I am in Canada.
This handle was one I picked up locally from a hardware store and I had to make a lot of shaping to even get it to the point it is now. Not much selection available here.

 

[Blue Sky]

Fitting handles to older heads is troublesome, the eye dimensions have changed over the years. I am dealing with that myself right now. I'd like to find a local source of good hickory boards and make mine from semi-scratch, it might be easier that way in the long run...

BTW, I didn't mean to suggest your efforts so far weren't good, I hope I didn't come across that way.

 

[M3mphis]

You might try adding a "cross wedge." This is Square_peg's picture from a handle he carved. He did a great job. Hope you don't mind me reposting it, Pegs.

 

[westwood]

I have never heard of a cross wedge technique like this. Looks interesting and would likely work well in my situation. I may have to try this.

Do you saw the cross slit the full length of the head?

 

[westwood]

BTW, I didn't mean to suggest your efforts so far weren't good, I hope I didn't come across that way.

No worries, I didn't take it that way. I was more just curious for future reference if there is a better source of handles out there.

 

[Square_peg]

You might try adding a "cross wedge." This is Square_peg's picture from a handle he carved. He did a great job. Hope you don't mind me reposting it, Pegs.

No sweat, Matt. I'm flattered. But credit for that system goes to Humppa.

I have never heard of a cross wedge technique like this. Looks interesting and would likely work well in my situation. I may have to try this.

Do you saw the cross slit the full length of the head?

I cut about 3/4 of the length of the eye for the cross wedge. Same for the side wedges. I used a very thin kerf pull saw to make the cuts.

Regarding having the haft tight at the poll or tight at the bit, I would choose tight at the bit. That's where the force will be applied to the haft on impact.

 

[mtangent]

I agree with everything said so far, but I don't think you have a big problem. This is a hatchet, will not be subject to the great forces on an axe.
I have rehafted a hatchet that had big gaps like yours. Put in a wooden wedge a quarter inch longer than the slot in the handle (not as long as the hole in the head). Then you will need to use two hammer wedges, metal, at about 80 degrees to the wooden wedge. The metal wedges should be parralel to each other, not opposing 80 degrees.

This worked well for me, functionally. But didn't look pretty. If you want it to look great, don't do what I said.

 

[bearhunter]

i personally think things should look pretty AND be functional... otherwise whats the point in going to all the trouble...
but then again, i am a little bit 'old fashioned'...

there was a time when folks took pride in their tools

 

[mtangent]

i personally think things should look pretty AND be functional... otherwise whats the point in going to all the trouble...
but then again, i am a little bit 'old fashioned'...

there was a time when folks took pride in their tools

Some days I agree with you, & some days I just want the thing to work.
It would be great if everything came out looking good each time. I'm not that skilled.