Do not send email if you expect a fast turn around from TOPS! The web site is maintained by a third party, not by Mike and Helen (at least last time I checked). Call them on the phone and you will get first class service from two of the nicest people you could deal with.
As far as quality of grinds, edges, etc. go, you get what you pay for. While I have not recently used any of their current production knives, the ones I saw at Blade West were solid knives. In the past, they had some volatility in who ground their knives out (as you would expect from any company starting from scratch). Now, they have full time guys who do nothing but, grind the knives out. Consistency and quality are all there.
In a post up above, bemoaning the ~$150 and up price for good old 1095 knife, brings up a point that may or may not be valid. In today's hype by amateur metallurgist, people tend to get lost in what they are looking for. Do I need a steel that I can sharpen myself? Do I need a steel that I can restore to a serviceable edge with a flat river stone? Do I need a steel that I can spark to start a fire? Do I need rust resistance? Do I really need an edge that needs maintenance only once a year?
A knife must be constructed properly first above all else. Length, thickness, grinds, etc. are the key things here - not the steel type in and of itself. Yes, with a new Super Steel, I may be able to use thinner stock, finer edges, etc. but, that may not be a requirement for the knife in question. An overbuilt knive does not require leading edge expensive steels to perform the role it was built for. Find the knife you need firt, then an select an appropriate steel, sheath, and other material for its construction.
I personally have owned knives that were properly heat treated and poorly heat treated. I have ATS-34 that was brittle and rusted (in non-abusive use). I have also had ATS-34 that showed none of these deficiencies.
I have fixed blades in ATS-34, D2, BG-42, CPM 3V and, a few other steels. I recently relearned the value of a custom made knife in good old carbon steel (1095 and 52100). Both knives are easy to maintain, get sharp with average sharpening abilities and, have performed very well.
1095 is appropriate for many users and their needs.
Also, a picture of a knife can be very miss leading. I really do not like buying a knife without holding it first for that reason. Sure, if I can get it cheap enough, I'll buy it, try out and, resell it if I don't like it. With an expensive knife, I really need to hold it or a similar knife in my hand first or, I will rely on people whom I trust to provide a meaningful review or discussion of the knife in question. That's how I purchased my first Newt Livesay knife and a knife from this unknown (at least back then) maker who made the TTKK's (Trace Rinaldi) - Thanks Joe!
). They cut very well and are built right. I don't find them, in general, as massively overbuilt as the TOPS knives. The grips on the knives are very well thought out. After using the Air Assualt a lot, I have found the grip shape to be one of the most comfortable I have used. At $150(US) average price, there is a lot of value here. Not nearly as expensive as a true custom knife but, 90% of the performance. Yes, I know Newt mainly uses 1095 but, his heat treat and cryo make for an excellant everyday using blade without the expense of the CPM steels.
