TOPS Rangers Edge for fixed blade field use?

1

1911freak

Joined
Jul 9, 2005
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New to the forum, looks like a great rescource for knife info. so here goes.

Thinking about getting a TOPS Ranger's Edge with the paracord handle. Does anyone have any experience with this knife? Should I get the micarta handle instead?
Any other reccomendations on a mid length fixed blade for field use?

P.S. Is there any way to dye micarta black?
 
Cord wrapped grips are hell to clean, if you do any wood work and your hand gets covered in sap it gets on the handle and turns into an unusable mess.

That is about the worst material to get on a grip, but lots of things will cause problems for cord which are fairly trivial to clean off Micarta.

What kind of things were you looking to do with the knife?

-Cliff
 
Cliff,
Thanks for the reply.
I do alot of work with local LE, mostly customized guns and modifications but I work some deals for them with nylon as well. Anyway, I have been invited by the local SWAT guys to attend some of their training, as long as I have my own gear and keep up, I'm in. They have seen my accuracy and gun handling skills and I gues it is up to snuff. They want me along so I can see what they do and need first hand.
Any way looking for a field/utility knife that would handle what I am gonna run into with these guys.
I would also like something that I can stick in my pack when I go hunting.
I looked at the Chris Reeve knives and they are great but a little pricey.
The Rangers Edge seemd to fit the bill, not too big, good steel, reputeable company, etc.
I had been told by a SWAT guy with military background that paracord wrapped knifes were the only grip he ever found that did not get slippery when covered in, ahem... a certain bodily fluid. I actually prefer the micarta but thought about goiing with the paracord to make sure I am using what they use. Now that I think about it I plan on never using a knife, knock on wood, for the purpose stated above so I think I will go with Micarta.
Any suggestions?
 
1911freak said:
I had been told by a SWAT guy with military background that paracord wrapped knifes were the only grip he ever found that did not get slippery when covered in, ahem... a certain bodily fluid.
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I run stabbing and hammering trials on grips from time to time, I don't use human blood, but do use animal blood and fats as well as vegetable oils and soaps. The knotty cord wrap Strider has popularized does have one of the higher grip retentions in that respect, Reeve's knurled grip also does very well as do the TOP's grips with the spine serrations.

However consider the following; I can take a plain round dowel lubricated with vegetable oil, and with a firm hammer grip slam it into a post and it is very difficult to keep the dowel from moving more than two inches. But the same dowel, wrapped it in simple green guard tape from Lee Valley, and again lubricated, the travel on a hard slam is about 1/8" .

Any micarta or G10 handle can be heavily checkered for extreme security if so desired, or just covered in a very high friction tape. Plus with a decent guard and end hook, plus shape contouring, retention isn't a problem even with an extremely lubricated grip.

I would look at Becker CU/7, Ranger RD7, Camp Tramp, and Fusion Steel Heart. All except the Fusion will likely need slight grip modifications (soem guard tape) for security in extreme conditions.

-Cliff
 
http://www.onestopknifeshop.com/store/becker.html in the middle of the page.

Just do a general search for Becker and you'll find it. BK7
Personally, I'd stay away from the BK77 for the use you describe. A WHOLE lot more money (at that price why not get a Busse, Fehrman, Bill Siegle custom, etc.) for less hard-use performance. S30V holds a mean edge, but sharpening can be tiresome and it's too brittle for hard use. The BK7 can be had for about 1/5 the price and will serve your uses better, I think.

I dunno about dying micarta black---I imagine you could do it, but have no idea what to use.
 
the micarta on my tops knives looks black when you use them which i assume is from the oil in your hands. wd-40 and other oils will also work without hurting the handle.
 
t1mpani said:
http://www.onestopknifeshop.com/store/becker.html in the middle of the page.

Just do a general search for Becker and you'll find it. BK7
Personally, I'd stay away from the BK77 for the use you describe. A WHOLE lot more money (at that price why not get a Busse, Fehrman, Bill Siegle custom, etc.) for less hard-use performance. S30V holds a mean edge, but sharpening can be tiresome and it's too brittle for hard use. The BK7 can be had for about 1/5 the price and will serve your uses better, I think.

I dunno about dying micarta black---I imagine you could do it, but have no idea what to use.
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Other than the price, would the BK77 do the job?
I only ask because I know where I could get one for about $165. I didn't mention it before because it seems a little too long and bulky, just a little too big. I know they make a 5.5" version but no micarta handles.

Brian,
Where could I find the CQT 5.5 for a good price? Do they make it with serrations?

Thanks to everyone who has replied!
 
It'll do the job, just not as well as the standard model IMHO. When S30V first came out it was billed as the end-all-be-all of knife steels--and it certainly has its strengths: resists deformation very well, highly abrasion resistant, good corrosion resistance. It has its drawbacks too, however, which I mentioned above. Resharpening can be tough, and it is brittle when hardened in the high fifties/low sixties Rockwell. I really don't think it belongs on a knife this big. That long of a blade at that thickness with a wide flat grind won't survive an accidental drop very well, or much in the way of "hard tactical use."

The 0170-6 of the BK7 is an excellent steel, not corrosion resistant at all (enter coating) but very tough and holds an edge well while being much easier to sharpen. Won't cut hemp rope quite as long as the S30V but will take much more of a beating. That is an excellent price you found for the BK77, but I still don't see paying three times as much as for a standard model when the performance level (for your needs) is going down rather than up.
 
Other knives to consider if a double edge is not the only criteria could be

Cold Steel SRK : Cheap and of a good steel, comes with a Securex sheath
Fallkniven S1 or A1 There is also the smaller F1 which comes with Krayton or Micarta handle
Camillus CQB-1 : This has a very coarse micarta handle which is left that way to afford a secure grip when wet.
Ontario TAK-1 : D2 and getting a good rep on the knife related sites
KA-BAR : A firm favourite still and now they come in D2 with synthetic handles and sheaths
Benchmade Nimravus : M2, light as a feather and a good solid rep

I like TOPS stuff though too, the above is just a few suggestions I thought you should look into before commiting.
 
Geesh, this is getting complicated.

As I keep looking at these different models I keep running across more knives that catch my eye.

What about he TOPS Fire Strike in the 5.5 inch version?
I am by no means fixated on TOPS, however I have been reading some reviews and the clip point seems to be the strongest and most versatile profile.

What about a Camp Tramp or a Ratweiler in a 6 inch length?
 
The Camp Tramp and Ratweiler are excellent choices--none tougher, absolutely guaranteed for life against normal wear and tear AND out and out abuse. Can't recommend them any higher, but you don't have a blade length choice. Both are 7.5" (the Ratweiler is actually closer to 7.75").
 
1911freak said:
What about he TOPS Fire Strike in the 5.5 inch version?
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Shallow sabre grind, lots of stock at full thickness, this is the classic sharpened prybar class with some tactical speed hole enhancements along the spine.

[cu/7]

1911freak said:
...it seems a little too long and bulky, just a little too big.
Click to expand...

With the blade thickness of the CU/7 you need a decent width to give solid cutting ability while maintaining edge strength. The size also allows it decent power on the swing. If you don't need or want this then you can radically change the design and look at something like a Bandicoot or Howling Rat.

In regards to clip points and strength, how a point is ground makes a huge difference on its strength, some clip points are really weak and others are strong. In general it is usually chosen to give strong penetration and trades strength for the ability to make the knife sink into things easier, but stock thickness and blade taper also have to be considered.

1911freak said:
Or maybe I should just splurge and go with the Chris Reeve Yarborough. I've always liked that knife.
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That knife has among the worse combination of features I have seen.


-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Shallow sabre grind, lots of stock at full thickness, this is the classic sharpened prybar class with some tactical speed hole enhancements along the spine.

-Cliff
Click to expand...

Cliff thanks for the heads up on the Yarborough.

I am thinking I'm going to go with the TOPS Fire Strike. It has the blade length, thickness, coating and handle material I want. I think it will fit well on a modular drop leg panel. I realize that I seem to be stuck on TOPS, maybe, but this knife really does have what I want.
The Ontario TAK-1 comes in a close second but the TOPS gives me a little more blade length.
If I could get a Camp Tramp or Ratweiler in a 6" length I would definitely go for it. But for a knife that I will carry on my web gear the 7.5" models are too big IMHO. I will probably buy a Camp Tramp later and put it in my pack when I go on extended training.

So unless anyone has any serious objections, I'll go with the Fire Strike.

Thanks again to everyone who replied.
 
1911freak said:
So unless anyone has any serious objections...
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Tops is fairly solid, sound blade steel for that type of knife, if it has what you want then its the blade for you.

-Cliff
 
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