Tormek Scandi grinds

[kwackster]

Specifically for scandi grinds on Mora's etc i designed and had this made a while back.
I call it a "limiter block", as it limits your range of movements while sharpening guided on the Tormek to only back & forth and up & down (for the point area)
The block can slide along the steel guide rod, and with the screws i can finetune the clamping force.

The knife is my Mora 2000 which i bought in Sweden in 2006, and which was used as a testbed for various edges, once even with a few serrations just in front of the handle.
I reground it several years ago using the limiter block, then removed the slight burr on the Tormek leather wheel for a slightly convex microbevel.
It has been living in my daypack ever since, and the apex has already been refreshed several times on a Spyderco white ceramic stick (when on holiday)

 

[kwackster]

Iirc the limiter block was made around 2014 in an attempt to be able to wet grind somewhat wider bevels like on scandi's better & faster than i was able to do with the standard Tormek knife clamp, while at the same time keeping things reasonably pleasing to the eye and of course repeatable.
Most people in my area that use Mora type knives just want to have their geometry re-established from time to time, so they can then touch up the microbevel quick & easy when on the job.

When i bought this Mora 2000 in Sweden the shop owner told me that most working people use these types of Mora knives until the microbevel turns into a standard width bevel, and then they throw the knife away and buy a new one.
But at least where i live we don't do that,

BTW: this is what was posted some time ago on the Tormek forum by Thomas, the Mora knife factory manager:

"I guess there is some confusion regarding the grindings and the edges, and I might be able to spread some light in this issue.
First, don't confuse ordinary Scandi Grind" (used on 90% of our construction workers and outdoor knives) with "Scandi Grind Zero" (used on carving and whittling knives).
Ordinary Scandi Grind ALWAYS has a small secondary bevel.
In our factory we use different methods on different blades but the result is similar - to make the edge stronger, less vulnerable and get a better edge retention.
This is the way we have been making knives for 126 years now so I think we can claim the right to tell what is what when it comes to our knives

This is the purpose of the leather wheel on your TORMEK grinder, like stropping, to deburr and create a sharp, strong and durable edge.
Some European, American and Asian knife manufacturers have a 1-5 mm high "secondary bevel", and that is NOT Scandi Grind, even if the rest of the blade looks like it would be.
One more thing to keep in mind that often causes misunderstandings: Primary grinding = secondary bevel and secondary grinding = primary edge
This is depending on point of view; from a production angle or from a user view."

/Thomas at MORAKNIV

 

[Luke Dupont]

First, don't confuse ordinary Scandi Grind" (used on 90% of our construction workers and outdoor knives) with "Scandi Grind Zero" (used on carving and whittling knives).
Ordinary Scandi Grind ALWAYS has a small secondary bevel.
In our factory we use different methods on different blades but the result is similar - to make the edge stronger, less vulnerable and get a better edge retention.
This is the way we have been making knives for 126 years now so I think we can claim the right to tell what is what when it comes to our knives

This is the purpose of the leather wheel on your TORMEK grinder, like stropping, to deburr and create a sharp, strong and durable edge.
Some European, American and Asian knife manufacturers have a 1-5 mm high "secondary bevel", and that is NOT Scandi Grind, even if the rest of the blade looks like it would be.
One more thing to keep in mind that often causes misunderstandings: Primary grinding = secondary bevel and secondary grinding = primary edge
This is depending on point of view; from a production angle or from a user view."

/Thomas at MORAKNIV

This is very interesting, because my recent experience sharpening a new Mora was quite different:

I just sharpened a new Mora Eldris Light Duty by hand, and I took it straight to a Soft Arkansas stone, which is slow cutting and extremely flat and hard, meaning if there were any rolling of the edge from a buffing wheel or secondary bevel, it would have taken quite a lot of grinding to get to the apex. But as far as I could tell, placing the knife on the stone and sharpening it as a "Scandi Grind Zero" knife, there was no micro or secondary bevel, and if there was, it was so small that a few passes on an Ark took it out (which is almost impossible. So I'm going to have to conclude that there was no secondary bevel.)

I don't remember how my other mora knives were, though. Perhaps the Eldris Light Duty is an exception?

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

This is very interesting, because my recent experience sharpening a new Mora was quite different:

I just sharpened a new Mora Eldris Light Duty by hand, and I took it straight to a Soft Arkansas stone, which is slow cutting and extremely flat and hard, meaning if there were any rolling of the edge from a buffing wheel or secondary bevel, it would have taken quite a lot of grinding to get to the apex. But as far as I could tell, placing the knife on the stone and sharpening it as a "Scandi Grind Zero" knife, there was no micro or secondary bevel, and if there was, it was so small that a few passes on an Ark took it out (which is almost impossible. So I'm going to have to conclude that there was no secondary bevel.)

I don't remember how my other mora knives were, though. Perhaps the Eldris Light Duty is an exception?

To qualify as a microbevel, the secondary bevel should be so small as to be invisible unless deliberately looking for it under good light. If you can see it without such close scrutiny it's a full-blown conventional macrobevel. The bevels are actually very slightly hollow-ground from the factory, and all but the woodworking knives have a microbevel or full secondary (depending on model.)

 

[Luke Dupont]

To qualify as a microbevel, the secondary bevel should be so small as to be invisible unless deliberately looking for it under good light. If you can see it without such close scrutiny it's a full-blown conventional macrobevel. The bevels are actually very slightly hollow-ground from the factory, and all but the woodworking knives have a microbevel or full secondary (depending on model.)

Interesting. Well, if that's the case and my knife did indeed come with a micro bevel, I'm super impressed at how fine and subtle it was.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Yeah you really have to look at it CLOSELY and tilt the blade back and forth. But it's there.