Tormek vs Rikon vs Grizzly Sharpeners

J

J Lensmire

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 30, 2021
Messages
239
Just curious of users experiences with any of the sharpeners. I’m researching the possible purchase of one for my workbench. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
I have a Tormek, as well as have had or used several similar systems. For sharpening woodworking tools like chisels and plane blades, they are excellent. For knives ... not so much.
You are far better with some sort of slow speed belt system, especially if it has a Kool-mist setup. A knife sharpening jig for the 2X72 makes it work just like a Tormek setup. Check out the ones from Reeder and IIRC, Contender. They are very reasonable, or you can make your own.

This thread has close-up photos of how to make your 2X72 a super sharpener (and how I made a "tru-tilt table).).
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

Thread 'Tilt Table and Sharpening Platen Photos and Info'

I got a chance to take a few shots of two accessories I made for the grinder. These should work for most grinders. The one shown is a Reeder.

The tilt table is just a large flat plate with a slot slightly wider than the wheel/platen. I show it with a flat platen, but it really works great for hollow grinding on a large wheel.
It attaches to the grinder with a standard tool arm and an attachment bar with a 3/4" round rod.
Construction is pretty much obvious on the tilt table. I took shots from various angles. The adjustable "T" rest reverses for single point rest or a straight ledge rest...
  • Like
 
Thanks Stacy, I was wondering about the Tormek and how it worked on knives. Currently I’m using a flow belt, but do not own a mister. Basically just do the pass/dunk method.
 
A Kool-mist clone on Amazon is $15 or so. Get a gallon of Kool-mist #78 coolant concentrate and it will change your grinding and sharpening results. It will pay for itself many times over in belt life as well as improved grinds.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I have a Tormek, as well as have had or used several similar systems. For sharpening woodworking tools like chisels and plane blades, they are excellent. For knives ... not so much.
You are far better with some sort of slow speed belt system, especially if it has a Kool-mist setup. A knife sharpening jig for the 2X72 makes it work just like a Tormek setup. Check out the ones from Reeder and IIRC, Contender. They are very reasonable, or you can make your own.

This thread has close-up photos of how to make your 2X72 a super sharpener (and how I made a "tru-tilt table).).
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

Thread 'Tilt Table and Sharpening Platen Photos and Info'

I got a chance to take a few shots of two accessories I made for the grinder. These should work for most grinders. The one shown is a Reeder.

The tilt table is just a large flat plate with a slot slightly wider than the wheel/platen. I show it with a flat platen, but it really works great for hollow grinding on a large wheel.
It attaches to the grinder with a standard tool arm and an attachment bar with a 3/4" round rod.
Construction is pretty much obvious on the tilt table. I took shots from various angles. The adjustable "T" rest reverses for single point rest or a straight ledge rest...
  • Like
Click to expand...
Care to elaborate more about why you don't like it for knives? Seems like they've got several jig ideas that would work really well for most knives. I've been considering one myself. I have a spray mister and belt grinder setup right now but would prefer to have something dedicated to just leave set up. Also the mister is messy.
 
I'm not saying it doesn't work, just that I didn't find it convenient or better. For a chisel or plane, a Tormek is super good. It also does woodturning tools well.
If you will only sharpen one type of knife and at only one preset angle, then it would be OK. I found long knives to be problematic, and a sword undoable.
Changing things requires a lot of experimentation/adjustment. And when you are done, you have a hollow ground edge that you still need to finish for most uses.


I find using the grinder running dead slow in reverse with my sharpening setup very accurate, easy, and allows finer belts to be changed quickly.
A few strops on a 800 mesh diamond charged leather board and it is screaming sharp. I'm starting to experiment with higher grit diamond pastes on the leather to see if it increases sharpness appreciably.
I think diamond removes the burr quicker and cleaner and leaves a very sharp edge. If you are a fan of super-sharp edges, diamond paste to 100,000 grit is readily available. I stop at 14,000 for "stupid sharp", and rarely go past 1200 for "working sharp".
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I'm not saying it doesn't work, just that I didn't find it convenient or better. For a chisel or plane, a Tormek is super good. It also does woodturning tools well.
If you will only sharpen one type of knife and at only one preset angle, then it would be OK. I found long knives to be problematic, and a sword undoable.
Changing things requires a lot of experimentation/adjustment. And when you are done, you have a hollow ground edge that you still need to finish for most uses.


I find using the grinder running dead slow in reverse with my sharpening setup very accurate, easy, and allows finer belts to be changed quickly.
A few strops on a 800 mesh diamond charged leather board and it is screaming sharp. I'm starting to experiment with higher grit diamond pastes on the leather to see if it increases sharpness appreciably.
I think diamond removes the burr quicker and cleaner and leaves a very sharp edge. If you are a fan of super-sharp edges, diamond paste to 100,000 grit is readily available. I stop at 14,000 for "stupid sharp", and rarely go past 1200 for "working sharp".
Click to expand...
Cool, thanks!
 
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