Torpedoes

Will York

Will York

Joined
Jan 21, 2000
Messages
8,888
I want to build a knife throwing wall, and wondered what experience anyone may have had with CS torpedoes. My plan is to use 2x12 yellow pine planks and a variety of throwing devices. Will the torpedoes penetrate a 2" pine plank? Either or both the 1" and 3/4" varieties? If so, approximately what kind of maximum protrusion distance should I expect behind the plank--2", 3", 4"? Are torpedoes fairly indestructable? Any problems with blunting the ends on a concrete floor? All ideas will be appreciated.
--Will

[This message has been edited by WILL YORK (edited 02-26-2000).]
 
Always remember that when you throw at planks you are throwing across the grain of the wood. The one inch torpedo is really too heavy and will tear up your targets fast. The best target to use for knife throwing is a cross section of a log made out of pine or another soft wood. If you feel that you must use planks I would get spruce or another soft wood. It depends what is available in your part of the country. The torpedeos will eventually splinter your planks and will go through the target. They are pretty tough. I like the 3/4 torpedo best as it throws more like a knife.

good luck

Bobby Branton

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AKTI member #1000

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[This message has been edited by Knifeslinger (edited 02-26-2000).]
 
Hi Will York, Have you considered throwing icepicks? They're cheap enough that you can buy and play with a dozen or more and they won't trash whatever you throw at so quickly.
Besides, with ice picks you can get away with a sheet of plywood.

Jake
 
Knifeslinger--thank you for the advice. I've thrown knives for many years and realize that throwing end-on into a cross section would be ideal, but had given up on finding easily replaceable targets offering a large surface area--thus, the wall of planks idea. I can see your point about using a softer wood--not so prone to splintering. Any specific advice on target material that would offer enough width and height to make indoor throwing safe--meaning insuring against hitting off-target from distances of up to 50 ft.? I need something that can be replaced, in a consistent size, and that is large enough to use with beginner throwers who have little control.
--Will
 
Jake--bright idea! I'm sure ice picks would be good for high repetition throwing without destroying a target, and good and cheap. I will play with that idea. I do want to be able to use this target for more substantial devices, though.
 
try multiple layers of cardboard, or if you really need stopping power hay bails with wood backing, they stop arrows.

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a man is no fool to give up that which he cannot keep to gain what he cannever lose.
 
fyi the cheaest spike i have found are wire clothes hangers ,of course going to the hardware store and getting some 1/4 inch wire is good too.

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a man is no fool to give up that which he cannot keep to gain what he cannever lose.
 
have you ever tried bamboo chopsticks, pens ,pencils, paperclips or the like, they can be fun too, cardboad is an excellent medium for them.

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a man is no fool to give up that which he cannot keep to gain what he cannever lose.
 
If you want to throw at end grain and don't want/have a log you can always use this method I read about some where. Take some 2x4's and cut them all to the same short length. The longer the length, the longer the life of the target. Let's say 6" for example. You're going to need quite a few of these as they are going to make up the body of your target by stacking them on their sides. You end up with a target made up of the ends of the boards. Something has to be built to hold them in place, and that depends on the size of the target. A frame of other 2x4's can be made using long threaded rods and wing nuts. I've also been thinking about trying to make one using bungee cords (I just have to figure out a way to put them so that the blades don't hit them!!). You have to make it so that it comes apart for moving the blocks around when the center gets worn. If you shell out the cash now and cut your boards long it should last a long time. When they get really worn you can always saw them to a shorter length and start over again. You can also just cut new blocks and replace the center from time to time. If you mainly throw knives you may want to run the boards through a planer so that they are nice and square. Then you'll have a much more consistant surface. For hawks and torpedos it probably won't make a bit of difference.

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Paul Davidson

Them:"What's that clipped to your pocket, a beeper?"
Me:"Uuh....yeah, something like that."


 
Paul--yeah, I thought through the idea of an array of ends of 4x6's or the like. That would work, but the construction, planing, and replacement of the target would be very time consuming for a large area. I think I'll stay with the planks and look for a little softer wood, unless someone else has another idea. Hay or cardboard bales surfaced with wood still calls for some form of wood that would be cross-grain, such as plywood. I've also thought of using door blanks, but solid-core doors get pretty expensive and I don't think hollow-core doors would hold up at all. We just don't have any big logs down here in the So. Texas brush country to cross section. A huge mesquite is maybe 18" across; that's about as big as it gets.
Keep those ideas coming--help me get this thing solved right the first time!
 
WILL YOURK,
I've seen Dan Dennehy (I hope that's how he spells it) throw at the Blade Show and he threw at a target made of plywood with archery foam on front of it. It doesn't seem like it would have the same feel as hearing that nice thunk that metal and wood make, but I guess it is another option.

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Paul Davidson

Them:"What's that clipped to your pocket, a beeper?"
Me:"Uuh....yeah, something like that."


 
Paul--that sounds very promising, and I'll look into it. Something soft with some give to it as a facing makes a lot of sense, with the wood to back it up and sustain the weight of the knife. Thank you very much.
--Will
 
It's something to think about anyway. I hope it's some help. You could always do a wall with that stuff with a couple of different wooden targets in front of that. This is a project that I've been putting off for a long time myself actually. Good luck.

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Paul Davidson

Them:"What's that clipped to your pocket, a beeper?"
Me:"Uuh....yeah, something like that."
 
If you have a way to hold them very tight layered cardboard can work magnificently. Cut the cardboard into long strips (The target I shot at was about a foot deep, we were using bows up to about 45 lbs) and stack them with the edge as your target. The one I saw was about 10 foot high and in 5 foot lengths running for two 15 foot long walls or so. These had taken many summers of boy scouts shooting at them and seemes to handle rather well. I do not know if they were made by someone commercially or not, or if they were ever replaced, but the same type of wall was there for over 6 years, and it wasn't brought inside, thuogh it did have it's own tiny roof.

As for torpedoes, it seems like a lot of effort to go through for a metal throwing stick. Get some #3 or larger rebar and it'll hurt just about as much, and won't mind being dropped in (or on) the concrete.

Stryver
 
Stryver--thanks for the ideas. I've used baled cardboard for archery targets before, but the angle, at which a rotating knife hits the target, brings the spring of the cardboard more into play--result being the knife doesn't stick consistently. The rebar suggestion is a good one. Thanks--Will
 
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