Total newbie question

A

Alvin Hom

Joined
May 6, 2004
Messages
171
I'm a total newbie and just took the first plunge by ordering from Jantz Supply:
How to Make Knives by Barney & Loveless
Apache Hunter Kit in Brass

So while I'm waiting for my very first project to arrive, is there anything I go out and buy or any other helpful advice from the experienced folks here?

Thanks for any advice!
 
Here's a pic of the kit:

ss461k.jpg


And the specs:

Kit includes:
(1) Apache Hunter Blade # SS461,
(2) corby rivets #CP600,
(1) thong tubing #CP500,
(1) Slotted Guard #CP361 and
(1) set Dymondwood scales.
 
(spouting ideas.....)


You'll need a file to shape the guard, smooth down the rivets and tubing, and to rough out the dymondwood.

A vise to hold it steady while you work (C-clamps are ok too.)

Make sure to clamp it real tight when gluing it up. You can use regular 2-ton epoxy.

Coat the area of the blade where you don't want the glue to stick, with oil (right in front of the guard).

If you have a vise, get some 80 grit sandpaper, cut it in long strips and sand your handle "shoe-shine" style to knock off the corners. (after glue-up, rough shaping)

Then just keep sanding with 120, 220, 400 until it's smooth enough.

Get some wax or polish and buff it with a soft cloth. Dymondwood is easy to finish.



Last but not least....have some fun with this one! :cool:
 
one more thing....be sure to get the finish you want on the blade before you glue it up....:eek:


Use 220/400/600/800/1200 sandpaper (get the high grit stuff at an autobody place or online). Clamp the blade down and handrub it lengthwise for a nice finish.

Clean up with acetone or mineral spirits (during glue-up too).
 
Then start reading the posts like What did you people do to me? and then all the ones about what grinders to buy, because if you accept it now that you will be going down that road it will be easier in the long run. ;) At least you'll have some good company. Welcome and have fun
WS
 
Daniel (pendentive) and all,
I shouldn't disagree with you but I will anyway. :footinmou My scales started holding on better, and looked better, when I started taking more time with the fit of the scales and using spring clamps for epoxying them. When I started I used 'C' clamps and applying lots of pressure. I even bought a couple of those 'no twist' clamps to apply more pressure without moving the scales.
Now I just make sure (!) that I like the fit of the scales before epoxy. Usually that means taking some time with sand paper glued to a piece of glass to assure the flatness (is that a word?) of both the scale and the tang.
I have also started a little dishing of the tang and the scales in the center to add more room for the epoxy. I sometimes drill holes for "blind pins." To anyone who doesn't know, that's just epoxy that fills shallow holes that don't show through in both the scales and the tang. Oh yes, sometimes people fill them with small pins.
Feel free to disagree!!
Lynn
 
So is the Barney & Loveless book a good place to start?

Any other book or video recommendations?

pendative: "..be sure to get the finish you want on the blade before you glue it up...." What exactly do you mean here, you mean get the blade polished to satisfaction before glue or do you mean stuff like etching and stamps?
 
Last edited:
it may be the lighting but the blade in the kit looks unfinished. You will want to do all your work on it first.

Let us know when you get the kit.

And....let us know what tools you have available...;)
 
That looks like a nice knife and it also looks like there is enough rough and finish work involved to give you a good idea and start in what it takes to persue this stuff. From Dan's good picture it seems about the only other major step will be for you to grind your own blades (and the heat treat - call me :cool: ) after this one.

I, and am sure the rest of us, wish you good luck and great patience with this one.

RL
 
You might consider dumping the Dymondwood and using a nice piece of walnut or something similar. It would be easier to work and look nicer in the end.
 
XRAYED said:
You might consider dumping the Dymondwood and using a nice piece of walnut or something similar. It would be easier to work and look nicer in the end.
Click to expand...
I was wondering about the Dymondwood myself. For folks that make their own knives, is it considered lower-end stuff? As opposed to say a piece of walnut, iron wood or other hardwood?

Because once it's finished, if I want to change the handles...it'll be a major hassle right?
 
yes, dymondwood is considered a "newbie" material....but that's because it's great for new guys to work on. You'll still be plenty proud of your first knife. Dymondwood is great because it's dimensionally stable, easy to keep everything straight. Save the harder stuff for your next one.....and you know there will be another one...:D
 
Maybe I'll stick with the newbie Dymondwood then. No need to get ahead of myself.

So how many knives should I make before I go out and buy some fossilized walrus tusk to attempt? :D
 
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