Total noob, need help cleaning up old Buck 639+

H

hazy

Joined
Mar 1, 2013
Messages
328
Hey guys, I'm looking to clean up my Dad's old Buck 639+. I can't find much of anything online about the knife other than that it was made in 1991 so its roughly 20 years old. I'm not sure what materials are used for the blade or the handle, if anyone can tell me I would really appreciate it. I just want to know what type of cleaning products I could use on the handle and blade to clean them. Also if their are products I can use to treat the handle and prevent it from drying out and cracking in the future (it seems to be some type or rubber or soft plastic or something like that, very similar to the material used on dash boards in cars).

I was wondering if it would be okay to use some Simple Green on the handle, it is a general purpose cleaner and doesn't really have any harsh chemicals, it can also be easily diluted with water. I have used Simple Green on the inside of my car on the material they use on the dash board (seems pretty similar to the handle of the Buck) and I haven't had any problems. I was also wondering if CLR would be okay for the blade but I was afraid it might ruin the finish so I wanted to check with some people who knew first. If these are no good that's fine I just want to find out so I don't ruin the knife. Thanks for reading.

buck1w.jpg

buck3k.jpg


These are just to show the kind of dirt I need to clean up.

buck5t.jpg

buck2t.jpg

buck4.jpg
 
CLR is very acidic/caustic stuff; I'd avoid that entirely, as it may create more issues (corrosion, etching, staining) than solve them, for the blade. Scrubbing the blade with WD-40, and perhaps some fine steel wool (#0000) should clear up much of the surface rust there. The blade should be 420HC stainless, which is what Buck's standard blades have been using since about 1986, if I recall. Pretty stain-resistant steel, so it shouldn't be too much to clean the surface rust from it (assuming that's what the stains are). Once cleaned up, keeping it from rusting again will be easy if the knife is used/handled and cleaned regularly. Blades that sit a long time, especially if not clean, are the ones that will rust more.

I doubt you'd have any issues cleaning the handle with Simple Green. Might just give the whole knife a bath in hot water + dish detergent (Dawn/Ivory/etc.) before doing anything else; that might take care of a lot of the grime on the handle. Rinse in HOT water; that'll help evaporate off much of the residual moisture.

I think the handle material was called 'Kraton', which is sort of a synthetic rubber. Very durable and resistant to chemicals and such. If it's still flexible and isn't currently cracked or otherwise coming apart, it'll probably be OK with a minimum of care. If anything, some ArmorAll or something similar might be used periodically, though I don't know if even that would be necessary. Just keep it clean, especially if exposed to solvents or other chemicals. I'd avoid storing it in direct sunlight, too; UV exposure often breaks down materials like this.


David
 
Last edited:
hazy, Had you posted this in the Buck forum you would have gotten better information as they know these models. I'll go easy on you OWE as I like you. The handle material 'Kraton' is correct. It's great stuff and was used in electric switches. The blade steel is 425M as Buck went From 440C to 425M in 1981(late or early 82). This steel remained their steel until in 1992 they began phasing out 425M and to 420HC and this as well as several other steels have remained in Buck's production line. Your model 639 is named the FieldMate and is rare, a odd ball as it was Only made with that line of knives and handle configuration. Then dropped with those models (late 1988-to about 92) and that shape was not seen again. Soap and warm water with a toothbrush will clean the handle and alcohol or Flitz on a cloth should clean the blade. Try not to polish it's satin finish. DM
 
Thanks very much for the replies guys I really appreciate it. I did not even think to use the Buck forum, I'm brand new here and I thought maintenance would be the most fitting, my fault on that one. If a mod would like to move this to the Buck forum that's fine with me. I will try what you both said and see what works best. Also thank you David Martin for the info on the blade I was pretty surprised that I couldn't find much about it online other than old ebay listings :/
 
Thanks, DM. Not sure why I hadn't accounted for the later (than I assumed) switch from 425M to 420HC. I knew it had been used after the 440C for a while (I have a 112 '4-dot' that I think used it), but had assumed they didn't stick with it as long as they did.


David
 
Both you Gents are welcome. Your 4 dot has 425M steel as this is the symbol for the beginning of that steels use. Go to the Buck Forum and click on the sticky at the top, subject 'Year date codes' and that will give
you the codes. I'm not sure if the steels have been added in that. DM
 
David Martin said:
Both you Gents are welcome. Your 4 dot has 425M steel as this is the symbol for the beginning of that steels use. Go to the Buck Forum and click on the sticky at the top, subject 'Year date codes' and that will give
you the codes. I'm not sure if the steels have been added in that. DM
Click to expand...

I actually looked at the sticky for the 110/112 last night, after seeing your correction here. I saw there's a mention in it, about transitioning from 425M to 420HC in 1992, but I don't remember seeing if it indicated when they started using the 425M.

The sticky for the 112s (112 Ranger Timeline document) indicates the '4-dot', as indicated by 2 dots on each side of the '112' stamping like mine, was used from 1981-1986. In retrospect, I think this is why I assumed they stopped using 425M in '86. Assuming all of the 4-dots were 425M, it would seem that steel was in use as far back as '81. There's no reference to blade steels in that particular sticky, however. Just the date codes and other visual indicators of vintage.


David
 
Last edited:
I see, I wish they would add a note about the steel change in those date codes but for now thats what we have. I'll mention this suggestion. I hope hazy, doesn't mind if I give you another tell-tale sign of your 4 dot 112. When Buck went to that stamp and steel, they also started giving the blade a full hollow grind and the handle and frame may be radiused on the edges/ corners. Thus, giving it 2 features you'll notice. The in hand feel is better and with the blade having a full hollow grind (no longer thick at the edge) it will cut better/ easier. I've always thought that was a good model. DM
 
David Martin said:
I see, I wish they would add a note about the steel change in those date codes but for now thats what we have. I'll mention this suggestion. I hope hazy, doesn't mind if I give you another tell-tale sign of your 4 dot 112. When Buck went to that stamp and steel, they also started giving the blade a full hollow grind and the handle and frame may be radiused on the edges/ corners. Thus, giving it 2 features you'll notice. The in hand feel is better and with the blade having a full hollow grind (no longer thick at the edge) it will cut better/ easier. I've always thought that was a good model. DM
Click to expand...

I like it too. :)

I'll also apolgize to hazy, if too off-topic, but here are a couple pics of mine, after I cleaned it up a bit. Was essentially as-new (little/no blade wear), but the bolsters were dinged up a little bit. So I sanded & polished them back into shape:

David
 
Last edited:
Hey guys, don't worry at all about the change in topic its fine with me, you already answered my questions anyways.

Just wanted to say I had great luck cleaning the knife up. I first tried rubbing alcohol on the blade and it was taking off the stains but I probably could have sat there for most of the day so I tried something faster. I read another forum thread about cleaning blades, a person said they used Bar Keepers Friend, I happened to have some so I gave it a try and it literally took the stains off like nothing. Also says its safe to use on stainless steel so that was good. For the handle I just used some Palmolive dish washing soap and that worked like a charm too. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out, now I'm going to find a good knife sharpener, I can't sharpen blades to save my life unfortunately.

Thanks again OWE and DM you guys rock. Here's some pics of how things turned out.

buckc1.jpg

buckc2.jpg

buckc4.jpg

buckc3.jpg
 
Last edited:
VERY GOOD, hazy! Looks brand new again.

I was tempted to suggest the Bar Keepers Friend (I've used and recommended it for just this sort of task before), but wanted to wait until we heard back from you. I tend to fall back on it, if other means don't quite get it done. It's good to see you've discovered this on your own. It's good stuff, when used carefully. I resisted suggesting it earlier, because it can etch stainless also, if left in contact with the steel for too long.

Nice work. :thumbup:


David
 
Last edited:
hazy, A Great looking 639! Good job. Buck offers sharpening for their models. I think it runs 4-5$ and they pay return shipping. So, another option for you. Send it to: BKI, 660 S. Lochsa St., Post Falls, ID. 83854
With a note telling them what you want done. Good Luck, DM
 
OWE, Yes, yours is a full hollow ground blade with radiused handles. That steel has some vanadium in it's mix. Plus, I couldn't help to notice the nice rich looking Macassar Ebony scales your model has. Your handles are solid ebony as Buck changed and went to a laminate wood of Obeechee in 1994. As their supplier was hit and miss on deliveries, so it was getting hard to obtain in large quanities. For a shock, check on the price of a matching pair like yours at knife supply houses, delivered to your door today. Yours is also, the finger groove model, an up grade. Thats when finger grooves were introduced. Those models are a good value. DM
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
I was tempted to suggest the Bar Keepers Friend (I've used and recommended it for just this sort of task before), but wanted to wait until we heard back from you. I tend to fall back on it, if other means don't quite get it done. It's good to see you've discovered this on your own. It's good stuff, when used carefully. I resisted suggesting it earlier, because it can etch stainless also, if left in contact with the steel for too long.
Click to expand...
Yeah I was afraid it might do something to the finish if I used too much so I literally put a small amount of the powder on the blade then used a wet rag. It didn't even take effort I was simply wiping away the stains I couldn't believe it (I sound like a freakin commercial but its true :P), then I just rinsed and dried it.

David Martin said:
hazy, A Great looking 639! Good job. Buck offers sharpening for their models. I think it runs 4-5$ and they pay return shipping. So, another option for you. Send it to: BKI, 660 S. Lochsa St., Post Falls, ID. 83854
With a note telling them what you want done. Good Luck, DM
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info David that is a perfect option.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top